Need help: Apoxy sculpt or apoxy putty?

[OdiWan72]

Hey all

I currently have a few projects upcoming/ in the works, where I have to resculpt some details and blend these areas in the existing casts.

One of the items is a blaster, where some areas have to be resculpted due to casting errors, the other item is a YODA yead, where I have to attach the ears to and blend the seams.

In both cases, regular spot putty won´t do the job and car body filler can´t be "sculpted" to a certain degree.

I always read about you guys using either apoxy sculpt or apoxy putty, but what exactly are the differences??? What can be used to ...
- fill larger areas
- can be sculpted like clay
- is airdrying (evtl. with the use of a catalysator/ hardener)
- has minimal shrinkage?

Thanks in advance,

Markus

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Great thread, I was wondering that myself, so will be watching! :thumbsup

 

[division 6]

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html

2 part putty that starts to set up after about 20 minutes.

I actually use Magic Sculpt that is pretty much the same thing.
No shrinkage, easy to sand, while in working state can be smoothed with water.

Aves also has a Safety Solvent that helps with working it instead of using water.

D6

 

[OdiWan72]

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html

2 part putty that starts to set up after about 20 minutes.

I actually use Magic Sculpt that is pretty much the same thing.
No shrinkage, easy to sand, while in working state can be smoothed with water.

Aves also has a Safety Solvent that helps with working it instead of using water.

D6

Thanks, but I´m still a bit confused...your link leads me to aves apoxie sculpt, but in your post you´re referring to "2 part putty" :wacko

Is there any significant difference at all?
Right now I´d think apoxie sculpt would be the best solution for my purposes.

Sorry for these -possibly dumb- questions :$

Markus

 

[exoray]

Sculpt and putty as far as this is concerned is universal... Lots of different brands of the stuff some call it an epoxy putty and some call it an epoxy sculpting medium...

 

[OdiWan72]

ooooookaaaaaayyyy...

I just placed my order for some apoxie sculpt in white and black plus some sculpting tools....Hopefully it´s what I need.

Thanks guys :thumbsup

Markus

 

[Jayn]

I prefer Magic-sculpt myself too.. very fine consistency & a bit less odor. I used it yesterday to make alligator teeth...
http://www.magicsculp.com/


(edit- here's the local supplier)

Grey Funnel Line
Post Box 13 01 67
42679 Solingen
Germany
Telephone Number +49-(0)212-383 299 50
Fax Number +49-(0)212-383 299 55
Website Address www.magicsculp.de
Email Address info@greyfunnelline.de

 

[division 6]

Thanks, but I´m still a bit confused...your link leads me to aves apoxie sculpt, but in your post you´re referring to "2 part putty" :wacko

Is there any significant difference at all?
Right now I´d think apoxie sculpt would be the best solution for my purposes.

Sorry for these -possibly dumb- questions :$

Markus

Epoxy putty's are a 2 part mix A&B, B is usually the catalyst that causes the mix to become hard.

Kinda like resin in a putty or clay like form if that makes sense.

You can even get sticks on the stuff at the hardware store usually labeled as plumbers putty.
This type you just cut off as much as you need and knead it till it's a solid color ( the catalyst is in the center.

If you want it super strong it also comes in steel, just don't get the one for marine use since it stays rubbery and doesn't stick very well.

D6

 

[OdiWan72]

thanks again guys!

Markus

 

[hankey01]

Just remember to try to get it right before it cures. That stuff is tough to sand!!

 

[OdiWan72]

Just remember to try to get it right before it cures. That stuff is tough to sand!!

Will try to remember it

Markus

 

[hollywoodhardware]

I would recommend Miliput http://www.amazon.de/s/?ie=UTF8&key...=aps&hvadid=2386100991&ref=pd_sl_302yx9dhdk_e

I use it a lot, on models and props. Heck I even did the Kroenen battle damaged mask with it.

http://www.hollywoodhardware.de/board/KroenenDamagedsm.jpg

Gimme a call if you like.

Thomas

 

[OdiWan72]

Hey Thomas

Won´t call you because of my miliput vs. apoxie issue...

But it´s about time for some prop and non-prop related smalltalk, don´t you think!? It´s long ago since we spoke buddy
.

Markus

 

[ArtisanProps]

I'm sure you already checked, but Apoxie Sculpt is not like the stuff you
get in hardware stores.. Apoxie Sculpt is better in that you have longer
working times, 2-3 hours according to the site, and the medium isn't all
lumpy.. It should work out great for what you need. Good luck!

 

[OdiWan72]

Yep, already figured that out, thanks!

I received the stuff last week and used it to fill larger gaps, resculpt some areas etc.

Generally it pretty easy to work with but I´m having a bit of a problem making it bond to the surfaces it´s applied to :unsure

Anyway...in the end it is pretty much exactly what I needed

Markus

 

[Mr. No Stripes]

Thanks for asking about it. I needed the same info. on putty/filler as well. Just bought some a few mintes ago. :thumbsup

 

[OdiWan72]

Thanks for asking about it. I needed the same info. on putty/filler as well. Just bought some a few mintes ago. :thumbsup

You are welcome :lol

Markus

 

[Squall67584]

I hate to add anything to a thread that's been silent for half a month, but just wanted to add something quick in regards to the difference between Aves epoxy sculpt and their epoxy putty. The sculpt is thicker and much like using a modeling clay or silly putty. I've used it for filling large gaps and spaces, while others have used it to sculpt figures and such. The putty is much thinner and stickier, and is more like the consistency of peanut butter. I've used it to fill in smaller surface imperfections (like bubbles in resin along an edge) and for filling small gaps that the thicker sculpt would be difficult to get into. I've also used it to "glue" to halves of a resin model together, though I've been told that most people wouldn't use it for that purpose. Both can be smoothed and feathered with water, and regular iso alcohol can really smooth it down well. I haven't used the safety solvent so I have no say on how that works.