You can see in this pic, that it only has gears on one side at this point, but one of the reasons I have since taken it apart, is to add some to the other side.
The brass all just about matches, so I don't know way some looks darker, then others, in this pic. Also the emitter is light up, but it just didn't show up in the pic, and I didn't have time to take another one, before the end of the contest. It would have worked better if the all the gears had the same size teeth, but I had to make do. Not all of them move right though, so wall I like the layout, I'm on the hunt for new gears for it.
This shows that it closes up, and you can see a little bit of the groove on the side of the handel for extending it, but what you can't see is that there is a very small, round, switch, in the groove, to turn it on. It works (or well worked.
) weather open, or closed.
I'm sorry I don't have any more good pics right now. I can tell you that it is close to the size of the CO toy 10/11 doctors sonic. Mine is just a little fatter
Here's some info on how I made it.
Parts:
3) 3/4" to 1/2" copper pipe couplings.
1) 3/4" to 1/2" copper pipe coupling. (I know it looks like I'm repeating myself, but actually I found a box of couplings that were labeled, basicly the same as the other 3/4" to 1/2" couplings, but it actually just fit over the standard 3/4" coupling. You'll need one of these for the tip.)
3) 1/2" to ?/?" coupler coupling. (the one that steps down from 1/2" to the next size down, but i don't recall what that size is.)
1) piece of 3/4" copper "repair" pipe. (it fights just over standard 3/4" coupler pipe)
1) piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. (the kind that is labeled 1/2" but is actually just over 3/4" OD.)
Some Clock parts.
Some pieces of small brass tubing.(I found this at a local old fashined hardware store, but you can get them online, if you look around. I used 2 pieces cut from a round one, and 1 piece from a rectangular one. just what ever size that will fight in your clear tube.)
1) piece of clear tubing with and OD of 5/8" or what ever best fights inside your PVC pipe. (I got mine at a local place, but you can get it cheaper, online at places like Plastruct, I had to go with acrylic, but Polycarbine would be better.)
A brass bolt for the knurled nut.
A piece of whatever size pipe fights in the small end of the 1/2" to ?/?" couplings.
A "flattened" glass marble.
A brass Knurled nut.
Led, resisters (I forget witch one I used, but the folks at Radioshack can help) a 6v battery, and a 6v micro motor.(all found at the shack.) Oh, and a very small switch at will fit the groove, on the sonic.
I just put the dremel in the "drill press stand" that they make for them. (so I could keep it level) With a cut off wheel in it. (I when through a few wheels.) I would set the height that I wanted, just set the coupling i wanted to cut, flat on the table, and held it from the side with pliers. (make sure that the pliers are bellow the cut off wheel.) The I would just use the pliers to slide the coupling across the table, and against the cut off wheel, until it was cut where I wanted. I cut a little off both ends of all the coupling, except for the 2 for the emitter, with those I just cut off some of the smaller ends.
I used a piper cutter, to cut the PVC pipe, and the "repair pipe". I sanded the outside of the PVC pipe, until in fight inside the repair pipe. (you'll need a piece of the main body, and a small piece for the emitter, to give you something to mount the marble to.) I then glued the PVC pipe inside the repair pipe, with enough sticking out of both ends to hold on the cut down 3/4" to 1/2" couplings on either end. I then set the height on my dremel, drill press set up, and used that, and a steady hand, to cut the groove in the side. (it doesn't show up in the pics very well, because I painted that part of my handle black, and the button is black, and the groove is dark, but it is there) On, mine it goes from one end of the PVC/copper pipe set up, to just past the middle point on the tube. (the open end is covered by the coupling so it ends up looking a bit like the CO toy 10/11 doctors sonic.
I glued, and bolted together the knurled nut, bolt, cut down pieces of couplings, and bit of pipe to make up the back end, with a black O-ring on it, to dress it up a bit.
For the acrylic tube, I rapped it in blue painters tape, and used a Hack saw with very fine, straight teeth to cut it. (the tape keeps it from scratching, chipping, or cracking.)
I cut down the tinny pieces of brass pipe. I put a strip of 2 sided tape on it, and then put the gears where I wanted them to be. The tape gave me a little play, so I had a chance to play with it all under a very strong magnifier, until I had them just where I wanted them. Then I used a pin press (a small manual drill) to drill small holes in the rectangular brass tube, using the holes in the center of the gears as my guide.
Once the wholes where drilled, I took the gears, and tape off. I put little pins through the gears, and very carefully glues them into the holes in the rectangular tube. (make sure not to get any glue at all on the gears, so that once the pins are glued to the rectangular tube, the gears still move around the pins.)
Then I just glued whatever was left to glue together, and wired it all up. (I would say more about the wiring, but you really shouldn't do it the way I did, because I it should be soldered, and since I can't solder, I used tape, and glue, etc, and it didn't work for long, or very well, and that's why I have since taken it apart to fix these problems.)
The brass all just about matches, so I don't know way some looks darker, then others, in this pic. Also the emitter is light up, but it just didn't show up in the pic, and I didn't have time to take another one, before the end of the contest. It would have worked better if the all the gears had the same size teeth, but I had to make do. Not all of them move right though, so wall I like the layout, I'm on the hunt for new gears for it.
This shows that it closes up, and you can see a little bit of the groove on the side of the handel for extending it, but what you can't see is that there is a very small, round, switch, in the groove, to turn it on. It works (or well worked.
) weather open, or closed.
I'm sorry I don't have any more good pics right now. I can tell you that it is close to the size of the CO toy 10/11 doctors sonic. Mine is just a little fatter
Here's some info on how I made it.
Parts:
3) 3/4" to 1/2" copper pipe couplings.
1) 3/4" to 1/2" copper pipe coupling. (I know it looks like I'm repeating myself, but actually I found a box of couplings that were labeled, basicly the same as the other 3/4" to 1/2" couplings, but it actually just fit over the standard 3/4" coupling. You'll need one of these for the tip.)
3) 1/2" to ?/?" coupler coupling. (the one that steps down from 1/2" to the next size down, but i don't recall what that size is.)
1) piece of 3/4" copper "repair" pipe. (it fights just over standard 3/4" coupler pipe)
1) piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. (the kind that is labeled 1/2" but is actually just over 3/4" OD.)
Some Clock parts.
Some pieces of small brass tubing.(I found this at a local old fashined hardware store, but you can get them online, if you look around. I used 2 pieces cut from a round one, and 1 piece from a rectangular one. just what ever size that will fight in your clear tube.)
1) piece of clear tubing with and OD of 5/8" or what ever best fights inside your PVC pipe. (I got mine at a local place, but you can get it cheaper, online at places like Plastruct, I had to go with acrylic, but Polycarbine would be better.)
A brass bolt for the knurled nut.
A piece of whatever size pipe fights in the small end of the 1/2" to ?/?" couplings.
A "flattened" glass marble.
A brass Knurled nut.
Led, resisters (I forget witch one I used, but the folks at Radioshack can help) a 6v battery, and a 6v micro motor.(all found at the shack.) Oh, and a very small switch at will fit the groove, on the sonic.
I just put the dremel in the "drill press stand" that they make for them. (so I could keep it level) With a cut off wheel in it. (I when through a few wheels.) I would set the height that I wanted, just set the coupling i wanted to cut, flat on the table, and held it from the side with pliers. (make sure that the pliers are bellow the cut off wheel.) The I would just use the pliers to slide the coupling across the table, and against the cut off wheel, until it was cut where I wanted. I cut a little off both ends of all the coupling, except for the 2 for the emitter, with those I just cut off some of the smaller ends.
I used a piper cutter, to cut the PVC pipe, and the "repair pipe". I sanded the outside of the PVC pipe, until in fight inside the repair pipe. (you'll need a piece of the main body, and a small piece for the emitter, to give you something to mount the marble to.) I then glued the PVC pipe inside the repair pipe, with enough sticking out of both ends to hold on the cut down 3/4" to 1/2" couplings on either end. I then set the height on my dremel, drill press set up, and used that, and a steady hand, to cut the groove in the side. (it doesn't show up in the pics very well, because I painted that part of my handle black, and the button is black, and the groove is dark, but it is there) On, mine it goes from one end of the PVC/copper pipe set up, to just past the middle point on the tube. (the open end is covered by the coupling so it ends up looking a bit like the CO toy 10/11 doctors sonic.
I glued, and bolted together the knurled nut, bolt, cut down pieces of couplings, and bit of pipe to make up the back end, with a black O-ring on it, to dress it up a bit.
For the acrylic tube, I rapped it in blue painters tape, and used a Hack saw with very fine, straight teeth to cut it. (the tape keeps it from scratching, chipping, or cracking.)
I cut down the tinny pieces of brass pipe. I put a strip of 2 sided tape on it, and then put the gears where I wanted them to be. The tape gave me a little play, so I had a chance to play with it all under a very strong magnifier, until I had them just where I wanted them. Then I used a pin press (a small manual drill) to drill small holes in the rectangular brass tube, using the holes in the center of the gears as my guide.
Once the wholes where drilled, I took the gears, and tape off. I put little pins through the gears, and very carefully glues them into the holes in the rectangular tube. (make sure not to get any glue at all on the gears, so that once the pins are glued to the rectangular tube, the gears still move around the pins.)
Then I just glued whatever was left to glue together, and wired it all up. (I would say more about the wiring, but you really shouldn't do it the way I did, because I it should be soldered, and since I can't solder, I used tape, and glue, etc, and it didn't work for long, or very well, and that's why I have since taken it apart to fix these problems.)
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