asalaw
Master Member
I recently came across these old scans of my original TNG comm badge, given to me as a gift by the men's costumer who got me onto the lot to tour the set back in 1990. Everyone on the crew was given one very early on (I think he said early in the first season), and somehow he wound up with two, so he gave me his extra one. He was always incredibly kind that way.
Anyway, back in, oh, '99-2000 I think, I recast it and made a few replicas. I only finished painting one, and who knows where the rest are.
Right now, my original has been MIA in storage for several years; numerous attempts to find it have come up empty. However, these old scans of my original and replica, front and back, are still excellent reference if you plan to 3D print your own, or compare one you've purchased for accuracy.
A NOTE ABOUT THE VELCRO
The back of the badge is dug out to a depth of around 1/8" (I just used my Dremel, with a 1/8" burr bit, since the original was done that way), to accommodate the MALE velcro patch. This cavity permits the badge to sit flush on the fabric; without it, the badge will be raised off the fabric by the thickness of two layers of velcro, or roughly 1/8". So the Roddenberry comm badges currently available, with the velcro just stuck on the back, are inaccurate in this respect.
The velcro patch on the original seems to have just been hot-glued in. I decided against using hot glue since the velcro on the original had simply dropped out. I used epoxy, I think, though today I'd recommend a good strong contact cement. (On John Long's recommendation, I once used it to apply velcro to a phaser; it's seen years of use/abuse and hasn't so much as lifted a corner.)
Just to be clear: The original is the one on the RIGHT in the scanned images. Yes, the dingy old crappy looking one. The left one is my then-freshly painted recast.
And FYI, below is a photo of Dremel burr bits. I used the one in the middle, 1/8" diameter, since the tool marks in the original comm badge cavity looked like that was what they used. Worked like gangbusters. As usual, don't try this at home. At least not where I can see you.
Anyway, back in, oh, '99-2000 I think, I recast it and made a few replicas. I only finished painting one, and who knows where the rest are.
Right now, my original has been MIA in storage for several years; numerous attempts to find it have come up empty. However, these old scans of my original and replica, front and back, are still excellent reference if you plan to 3D print your own, or compare one you've purchased for accuracy.
A NOTE ABOUT THE VELCRO
The back of the badge is dug out to a depth of around 1/8" (I just used my Dremel, with a 1/8" burr bit, since the original was done that way), to accommodate the MALE velcro patch. This cavity permits the badge to sit flush on the fabric; without it, the badge will be raised off the fabric by the thickness of two layers of velcro, or roughly 1/8". So the Roddenberry comm badges currently available, with the velcro just stuck on the back, are inaccurate in this respect.
The velcro patch on the original seems to have just been hot-glued in. I decided against using hot glue since the velcro on the original had simply dropped out. I used epoxy, I think, though today I'd recommend a good strong contact cement. (On John Long's recommendation, I once used it to apply velcro to a phaser; it's seen years of use/abuse and hasn't so much as lifted a corner.)
Just to be clear: The original is the one on the RIGHT in the scanned images. Yes, the dingy old crappy looking one. The left one is my then-freshly painted recast.
And FYI, below is a photo of Dremel burr bits. I used the one in the middle, 1/8" diameter, since the tool marks in the original comm badge cavity looked like that was what they used. Worked like gangbusters. As usual, don't try this at home. At least not where I can see you.
