My not-so-budget Jack Sparrow build

Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

Quick update. I tried out my 4 gallon dye pot today with some color remover. Due to my past experience with the stuff I was completely unprepared for what happened. After 10 minutes in the pot, the purple breeches turned a light grey color. I rinsed them out, put them in the washing machine, then the dryer, and when I pulled them out they were WHITE. So now I just need to figure out a good dye mixture to get the Black Pearl color, OR I have the option to change my mind and make them brown. I'm undecided right now.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

I like the COTBP blue color myself.


But it sounds like your just trying to get them to be evry single color ever. So go blue first; then brown.

:lol :p ;)
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

I'm leaning that way as well. It just seemed like everybody does the brown pants.

I'm taking pictures of my boots as I make progress on them. When the first one is finished I'll post all the pictures and a more in depth tutorial. SithCamaro's is sadly lacking in any real details on the process. It was basically a 7 page recommendation for Barge rubber cement.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

The COTBP costume is beautiful in it's simplicity, if that's what you're aiming for, go for it.
Besides, it's the best movie out of the series so far, hahaha.
Can't wait to see the boots!
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

I agree that it's the best movie so far, and I like the color better, but I'm also going to have 2 belts and a DMC style wig. So it's basically between the color and movie that I like, or the overall ensemble I think looks better.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

I went with Black Pearl for the pants, and I'm glad I did, I love the way they turned out. But more on that after I finish my first belt and take a progress picture. For now, I really wanted to post the first part of my boot progress. I'm sorry there aren't very many pictures, there were some places I definitely could have taken more, but I was kind of into it. If you are planning on copying my method and want to see something that I mentioned but didn't have enough pictures of, just let me know and I'll try to get some when I do the other boot. Also, the flash kills the color of the suede, but it looks to me like the same mustardy yellow leather used on the CABoots.

I started with a pair of western/motorcycle type boots from HH. I had to cut off the boot straps and remove the bound edge and zipper from the shaft.
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Then I sanded one of them down so the glue would do it's job.
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That was the easy part, then it got a lot harder. I did all of this sort of on the fly, so it wasn't perfect, but I'm making it work now in the later stages. I cut out most of the shaft, leaving only the back and front to work with. I Put the boot on, then pulled my foot half way out. When my foot was stretching the ankle open the farthest it had to for me to still be able to get my foot in and out, but not make it loose, I measured around the outside and got about 15.5 inches. I then made a pattern for the shaft liner with that measurement as the bottom, my calf measurement as the top, and a height of 11 inches so it would almost reach my knee. I had to make the sewn edges a curve to allow my calves to fit inside the boot, then I used a leather sewing awl to stitch the two sides together. I used leather weld to glue down the seam allowances on the bad side of the leather (outside in this next shot) and then glued and stitched the liner piece to the top of the existing shaft front and back. The lines drawn on the boot are rough approximations of where the outside shaft piece will go down to (jagged line) and where the piece on the foot would go to (smooth line).
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So then I made up a pattern for the boot shaft, which took a good deal of time and will probably be the hardest part of the whole project. I cut that out of the leather and sewed up the back seam, glued down the seam allowances on the inside this time, and then bit by bit starting at the heel glued down the bottom edge to the boot, leaving about a half inch from the heel/sole so that I could glue the edges in more precisely once it was together. Then I worked my way up. In retrospect, this was a pain in the a** and I might start a little higher next time, work my way down, and then back up from the starting point. I used a mixture of leather weld and barge rubber cement for this step. I have a lot of faith in leather weld, but barge came so highly recommended I figured it would probably be in my best interest to use it. Some places though, I just couldn't get to to apply the stuff on both sides and let it sit for 15 minutes. That's where the leather weld was really useful. The stuff looks and works pretty much exaclty like elmer's glue, but it works really well on leather. So I glued in the whole of the original boot shaft and then went back down, glued the edges down to the sole, used a bone folder to tuck them in nicely, and then trimmed with an xacto knife.
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I'm currently in the middle of gluing the bottom edge of the shaft liner piece to the shaft all the way around, then I'll use barge to glue the seam allowances of the back seams together all the way up the boot. Then I'll glue the top edges together, and the shaft will be done.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

OK, I've hit a wall. I've been sitting here for the longest time trying to pattern the bell cuff and it's just not happening. Can anybody give me some advice? The problem I'm encountering is that even with all the extra width I added to the bottom of the cuff, the front still stays pressed against the boot shaft while the back flares out. How do I get it to flare out evenly all the way around without changing the top curve, which matches the top curve of the shaft perfectly?
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

Wet mold mate! You can wet the suede down after you fix it to the main boot shaft. After you get it wet simply stretch the suede leather little by little so you achieve the proper fit away from the boot shaft.

Another think you can try is to roll the top of the bell area where it is attached to the boot shaft. See if that pulls it away from the boot shaft. Hard to explain this process without pictures. I'll try to photograph my boots tonight so you can see what I mean.

And finally you can always put something under the bell to push it out away from the boot shaft.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

So what you're suggesting is to cut the front of the bell even longer than it is now (which is already longer than the back) then roll it up higher in the front? If I did that it would sit the way I want it to, but it would also make the boot about a half an inch taller in the front, and Jack's boots are level at the top,aren't they?

Another thing I'm curious about, for anybody who owns CABoots, is the cuff double thickness, or just one? And is the bottom hemmed, or just stitched?
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

The CABoots are a single layer of thicker suede. It is stitched up the back and along the top of the boot shaft. It is also hemmed along the fringe of the bell.

I think the problem is that the thickness of the boot shaft is too thin which causes the bells to pull back. They don't have enough support. The CABoots are lined with a smooth suede like liner which thickens it up and gives the boot shaft the ability to hold the weight of the bell. You could take a strip of leather maybe 1/2 inch in width and the length of the boot shaft and glue it to the top of the boot shaft under the bell. That may push the bell out.

Don't forget that on Jack's boots the bells ARE slightly angled to the back. Meaning they are not a straight cut along the hem. The bell edge slants back towards the back of the boot. Perhaps that was designed like that on purpose in order to overcome the problem you are having.

It seems like the stitching may be too tight in the back thus pulling everything towards the back. And by the way the rolling tip was supposed to be ever so slight so it wouldn't show. I think the best solution is to line the boot shafts with a thicker material so they can hold the weight of the bells.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

That's not the problem at all. I haven't even cut it out of leather yet, for all I know it's an issue that goes away when I switch from paper to leather, although that doesn't seem likely. The boot shaft doesn't have a problem holding the bell, it's just that the curve of the top of the pattern would have to be different for it to stand away from the shaft, but as far as I can figure in my head, that's not physically possible because the curves have to match to be able to cut it out of the leather. Worst case scenario I can cut out a piece of leather that matches my pattern, spend 4 hours sewing it up the back, and then find out that the problem wasn't just with the paper, but the leather as well. I'd really rather not do that, especially since it would waste a whole lot of leather.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

No boot update, sorry. I ended up getting carried away dying my waistcoat fabrics and sewing buttons onto the breeches. I'll have a picture with the shirt, pants, sash, and first belt soon.
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

Small update, here's the boot with the shaft piece glued all the way to the top. Still no cuff, between moving house and a pinched nerve in my back I haven't been able to get a whole lot done.

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Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

OK, I took the leap, and I think I fell, haha. Here's what I ended up with:

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And here's my pattern:

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So what's the deal? Did I not make the bottom of the cuff wide enough? Also, considering that I hadn't folded up the half inch of hem on the cuff yet in that picture, should I make it longer as well?
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

If you're going to remake the cuff, you may want to try peaking the center of the top (Where it joins the shaft) and grading it down in a curve...similar to how the top of a sleeve is made, though not as high of a slope. That should (If my imagination is anything to go by) at least partly counteract the front of it contacting your shaft.

...I hope that makes sense. I just got done with day 1 of P90X so I feel like my brain is mush. :lol

I can always draw up a quick diagram if I wasn't clear.

That said, it looks great. If they were mine, I'm not sure I'd change a thing, but I understand the desire for perfection.

-Nick
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

That was the only thing I could come up with that would work the other night, but I'm pretty positive that Jack's boots are completely level at the top. To the CABoots owners out there, is this true? Are the boots level at the top, or angled?
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

If you angle the top of your boot shaft to match the slope of the top of your cuff in the opposite direction, so that there is the same amount of material all the way around, then roll it so it's level, regardless of the seam direction, the seam should go down in the front if viewing it from the inside) it should give you a flat top, and a bell that isn't spot welded to the front of your leg.

...I think. :p

That was even trickier to try to describe, so once again, if you need me to make a quick drawing, I will.

-Nick
 
Re: Jack Sparrow on a budget

That actually does make sense. I'll have to plan out in my head beforehand though, I don't want to risk cutting the boot shaft without really thinking it through.
 
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