BOBA PHAT
New Member
thumbsup Truer words could not be spoken. We should always be looking to the originals as our ultimate goal.
That's what I've tried to do. I've admired and been inspired by what others have done, but if it's not from ILM it's not reference to me.
Can the theory you have posed of a plaster mold answer why there are cut marks in the PP2, and a seam line on both the KT and GM that appears to have already been corrected and molded into both the KT plug and the GM helmet? While I obviously don't know for sure (I wasn't there) I feel like the evidence strongly points to there HAVING to be another unseen plug that came before the GM and KT.
I think you misread me. I do not think that there was a plaster mold. Not only is plaster mold making basically a lost art, the seam lines in the KT plug would be very different. Also I'm just taking in consideration the known facts: a missing PP2 helmet that turns up with cut marks; the KT plug and its condition; and the GM cast and its condition. All the other information is basically hearsay and should be taken with a grain of salt.
Obviously a mold was made of the PP2. Unfortunately, a low quality mold with a bad cut seam. The 2nd seam on both helmets says that a 2nd mold was made, so whoever was casting these helmets did not have access to the original mold. So a master cast would have been pulled from the original mold for the purposes of remolding. Was that master the KT plug, or another unseen plug? My point is that if another unseen master cast was made, why make another master cast in the KT plug? Either theory is equally valid. It's all a matter of which mold did these casters have access to. If you have the original mold, then you'd make casts from that. If you're looking to make your own casts, but don't have the original mold, then you pull a master for remolding. My theory assumes these casts were made by a second set of casters that did not have open access to the original mold. Your's assumes these casts are being pulled my a third set of hands that did not have the 2nd gen mold. Who knows.
Again, I wasn't there, so I can't answer that definitively, but my assumption would be to correct the horror of a seam line that was created demolding the PP2. Given that the GM and KT have the corrected seam and given the nature of the way that corrected seam looks, it doesn't look like it was corrected in the mold, but on a positive, which would indicate another master.
The corrected seam on the KT might be the actual repair and not a cast of the repair. When I look at the back of the KT plug, I see no flashing at all on the second seam. Just a deep cut, even below the helmet on the ring on the bottom. The first seam is "repaired" on the helmet, but there is flashing on the bottom ring. This leads me to believe that 1st seam is actually a repair on the KT, and the 2nd seam is the cut mark of removing the mold of the KT plug.
Given that we know the first seam line came from cutting the PP2 from the mold (as the cuts and the seam line up) and given that Ken has repeatedly told us how he forced the KT from the mold to the point that he damaged the mold (to the point that he thought it was unusable), I think it is a far stretch to postulate that the 2ndary damage in the back of the KT is the cut seam from a mold taken of the KT.
If a rigid mold was made, then I could see casts locking in the mold. But despite all the hearsay, I think we can all agree that both the original and 2nd gen molds were flexible. Given that the mold making material is unknown, a cast could adhere to the mold if a barrier release was not properly applied, or if there was a bad reaction with the casting material. Both of those scenarios would leave damage that is inconsistent with the two casts we see. The kind of damage where a casting sticks to its mold would pull small pieces of the mold out. So bits of the mold would have to be cut off the cast, which I don't see evidence of, and the mold would have negative pits which would result in positive nibs on subsequent cast, which I also don't see on the GM or the KT.
The way that casts made into flexible molds "lock up" has more to do with the mother mold than the flexible mold. If the cut seam doesn't seal properly, and the mother mold is not greased, casting material could seep in between the mold and the jacket and lock the casting to the mother mold. A cast cut seam usually produces a thin flashing, which I don't see on the KT nor do I see any evidence of removing that flashing. You can see this type of flashing on the GM cast where the cut seam was not taped on the dome. The GM cast also shows heavy mold use by the time this cast was pulled. It appears that after many pulls, a lot of material seeped through the cut seam and built up on the jacket. This build up caused the dip around the 2nd cut seam and did not allow the cut seam to close properly, necessitating taping the seam.
There IS a way that might prove my theory incorrect and what you are suggesting to be a possibility. If the KT were stripped of its bronze patina and it was conclusively shown that the corrected seam line was physically correct ON the KT and not molded IN to the KT as I believe it is, then that would indicate the KT was first generation and that the GM was a 2nd generation casting from the KT.
That could prove either one theory or another, but we both know that's not going to happen. And if the repairs on the plaster KT were made with more plaster, they might be indistinguishable. If the repairs were done with plaster, that might explain the poor quality of the repair. Wet plaster patches on dried plaster set very fast due to the porous nature of plaster, so there is almost zero work time to fair out the patch. Plaster patches can be tooled, but must be done with files or rough grit sandpaper (like the scratches on the back of the helmet casts).
Again, either case could be true. If the KT and GM were both cast from the same mold, or if the GM is a cast made from a mold of the KT, they are going to be extremely similar. Obviously by the time the GM was cast, there was a lot of material build up on the jacket, causing the problem areas on the seam and the dent on top of the dome. I also think a lot of the surface issues stem from the gel coat used. If it doesn't have enough body to it, it will start to pull away from the mold as it cures before the gel coat is backed with glass and resin. I've had this happen to me before, and it's very weird and very frustrating. Due to such problems, I never use off the shelf gel coat and always make my own.
This one little air bubble on the right ear is a bit of a tell. It doesn't prove one theory over another, but is the result of a plaster cast. That is a prime spot for trapping air while the mold is inverted for plaster casting. A trapped air bubble while molding would most likely appear underneath the ear piece ridge. Now this air bubble could be the result of casting the plaster KT plug from the original mold, or from recasting this 1st gen phantom plaster plug that had this same air bubble. Either way, the GM is a cast that is closely related to the PP2. I just wish all the molding and casting weren't so sloppy!
-Ryan