My Last Crusade Holy Grail build

Luke0312

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
In my Indy collection I've got a couple of Grails, one made by Alan Castillo and the other a CFO Magnoli. I love both of them, but still wanted to do my own version. I wanted one that was screen accurate to the Grail as first seen setting on the shelf in the Knight's room.

To this end, I used a screenshot to get a tracing of the Grail. I broke it down into several parts, mainly the cup, base, and stem. I did a template of each part, this would allow me to cut out each parts, then assemble. I don't know what this is called, so I'll refer to it as a wire-frame, similar to the wooden animal kits out there for kids. I've seen Volpin do similar and that's where I got the idea. With each part made into a wire-frame, I only needed to fill in the gaps between the parts using apoxie sculpt.

An example of the template I made to assemble each part of the Grail:
2rgi8tj.png


Unfortunately, I didn't think to get any pics of this step. Rest assured, it looked pretty rough for a while. Once I started filling in the low spots and priming, it really started taking shape. The good thing about the wire-frame is that it is easy to keep the correct dimensions. I worked the stem/base and cup separately. Put each on the lathe and turned them down with only sandpaper (they were already extremely close to the correct shape).

Once each piece was done, I only needed to connect them and blend the line. Then I was faced with a decision. Looking at screenshots of the Grail, pictures from the archives, and my CFO from Magnoli, it's obvious (and well known) the originals were made by hand on a wheel. Due to this, they might have a slight bend, some lines, imperfections, etc. Mine was perfectly smooth, straight, true, etc. So, idealized or true to original? In the end, I decided since the Grail would require aging, staying true to the original would look best and more natural. So I added a little bit more putty in some spots, spun it back up, and made it more like the original.

Here's a shot of Grail once this was done:
rkvsdv.jpg


I wanted copies of it and an overall stronger piece, so I decided to mold and cast the original.

I had the option of doing a 3 piece mold or a single with jeweler's cuts. I opted for the single piece, as it likes to self align and I believe gives a better casting (less clean-up). The mold probably won't last as long since it's stressed more during the removal of the casting, but oh well.

Here's the mold. The first shows the silicone outside the mdf that was used for the mold box. I did two large keys on each side of it. For the mdf, I used wooden dowels for assembly, however, only glued one end. During the pouring of the silicone I held it together with clamps and just tacked the bottom on it. Once the silicone was cured, I removed the bottom and was able to just pull the sides off. During the casting process, I can just stick the sides back on, the dowels align the mdf, and large rubber bands hold it together. The flashing on the cast is very thin, such that I can actually remove all of it with my fingernail once it comes out. On the base, I have to cut the pour stem off and smooth it, but very simple and minimal clean-up overall.

Here's some shots of the mold and box:
2m6tlhx.jpg


1zh1jlc.jpg


For the casting, I decided to use resin with a ceramic additive. Allows the castings to be durable, while the filler adds some ceramic properties. Decided not to tint the resin, instead to paint them. I guess either way would have been fine, but I like the control I get with paint.

Here's a shot of the first casting from the mold cleaned up and primed (camera not on a tripod, a bit blurry):
2vi4hp0.jpg


I currently don't have any gold leaf, but just ordered some. Only thing is I'm going on vacation next week and with the holidays right around the corner, it'll be a while before I can devote much time in the finishing process. Certainly looking forward to the process of it though.
 
Thanks guys. :)

The finish is going to be what makes or breaks it. Still experimenting and sorting it out. Long way to go on getting what I want, but making some headway.
 
Through a very strange coincidence, a family member brought a blank grail (I believe he picked up from a Con recently) to me and asked me to finish it, he even brought one of the small leafing kits.

I didn't know who the maker of it was, but the casting looked ok. Some bubbles and tooling marks on the stem. Regardless, I said I would finish it, so I did. When I got finished I went to put it back in the box and found a sheet of paper in there, turns out it came from Arsenal Models. :facepalm

In the end, it gave me a chance to work through some techniques on how I would like to finish mine. Next time, I'll do the leaf patches just a bit larger and tone down some of the color over top the exterior leaf just a bit. Besides some obvious repair to the cup and the gilding, I did a combination of dry brushing, sprays, and even mixed in some dry pigments to get texture.

Here's how the AM cup turned out, really making me look forward to getting started on mine:
2nrkdqb.jpg

neakr7.jpg
 
Very cool.... But I should inspect your work closer. Send one to me for free and I'll review it. :lol
Just kidding ;)
 
In my Indy collection I've got a couple of Grails, one made by Alan Castillo and the other a CFO Magnoli. I love both of them, but still wanted to do my own version. I wanted one that was screen accurate to the Grail as first seen setting on the shelf in the Knight's room.

To this end, I used a screenshot to get a tracing of the Grail. I broke it down into several parts, mainly the cup, base, and stem. I did a template of each part, this would allow me to cut out each parts, then assemble. I don't know what this is called, so I'll refer to it as a wire-frame, similar to the wooden animal kits out there for kids. I've seen Volpin do similar and that's where I got the idea. With each part made into a wire-frame, I only needed to fill in the gaps between the parts using apoxie sculpt.

An example of the template I made to assemble each part of the Grail:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2rgi8tj.png

Unfortunately, I didn't think to get any pics of this step. Rest assured, it looked pretty rough for a while. Once I started filling in the low spots and priming, it really started taking shape. The good thing about the wire-frame is that it is easy to keep the correct dimensions. I worked the stem/base and cup separately. Put each on the lathe and turned them down with only sandpaper (they were already extremely close to the correct shape).

Once each piece was done, I only needed to connect them and blend the line. Then I was faced with a decision. Looking at screenshots of the Grail, pictures from the archives, and my CFO from Magnoli, it's obvious (and well known) the originals were made by hand on a wheel. Due to this, they might have a slight bend, some lines, imperfections, etc. Mine was perfectly smooth, straight, true, etc. So, idealized or true to original? In the end, I decided since the Grail would require aging, staying true to the original would look best and more natural. So I added a little bit more putty in some spots, spun it back up, and made it more like the original.

Here's a shot of Grail once this was done:
http://i42.tinypic.com/rkvsdv.jpg

I wanted copies of it and an overall stronger piece, so I decided to mold and cast the original.

I had the option of doing a 3 piece mold or a single with jeweler's cuts. I opted for the single piece, as it likes to self align and I believe gives a better casting (less clean-up). The mold probably won't last as long since it's stressed more during the removal of the casting, but oh well.

Here's the mold. The first shows the silicone outside the mdf that was used for the mold box. I did two large keys on each side of it. For the mdf, I used wooden dowels for assembly, however, only glued one end. During the pouring of the silicone I held it together with clamps and just tacked the bottom on it. Once the silicone was cured, I removed the bottom and was able to just pull the sides off. During the casting process, I can just stick the sides back on, the dowels align the mdf, and large rubber bands hold it together. The flashing on the cast is very thin, such that I can actually remove all of it with my fingernail once it comes out. On the base, I have to cut the pour stem off and smooth it, but very simple and minimal clean-up overall.

Here's some shots of the mold and box:
http://i40.tinypic.com/2m6tlhx.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/1zh1jlc.jpg

For the casting, I decided to use resin with a ceramic additive. Allows the castings to be durable, while the filler adds some ceramic properties. Decided not to tint the resin, instead to paint them. I guess either way would have been fine, but I like the control I get with paint.

Here's a shot of the first casting from the mold cleaned up and primed (camera not on a tripod, a bit blurry):
http://i40.tinypic.com/2vi4hp0.jpg

I currently don't have any gold leaf, but just ordered some. Only thing is I'm going on vacation next week and with the holidays right around the corner, it'll be a while before I can devote much time in the finishing process. Certainly looking forward to the process of it though.

Are you going to be selling any of these?
 
very nice, can't wait to see how it turns out!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Since I'm still waiting on the leaf and needed something to do, decided to make a stand for the Grail. My first thought was the Great Seal, but on a small piece, all the detail wouldn't look as good (considering the seal in the film was large enough to be walked across). Also, the Grail would be sitting over top most of the cross and I just didn't think it would look best that way. So I did the Cruciform cross near the front, added a border on the edge and made a small step for the base of the Grail to sit on. Put a slight stone like texture on it and once I've got a cast, will paint it to resemble stone. Plan on casting it in a stone type material, to add to the realism.

Without flash:
2v3fom0.jpg


With flash:
1220nle.jpg
 
Been back in town a few days and got to work on my Grail a bit more. Did some experimentation with the "dust" on the Grail and after a few tries, found a finish I like and is pretty durable (not showing well in the pictures for some reason). Also, poured one of the stands in resin (haven't had time to do a stone yet). Not entirely satisfied with my paint job on the stand, too monotone, but will continue working on it. I am very happy with the finish of the Grail however. Here's the Grail on stand and a few shots of the Grail by itself.

1pzfhw.jpg


el40ow.png
 
Wow. I love the way you did this. :) I would have COMPLETELY followed your lead on my build, if it had been round' when I was makin' mine. :D Nicely done.
 
Wow. I love the way you did this. :) I would have COMPLETELY followed your lead on my build, if it had been round' when I was makin' mine. :D Nicely done.

Thank you. :)

None of what I did in making it was my original idea, I have to thank others for showing their methods. Like I had mentioned, seeing how Volpin does some things with "templates" since he claims not to be much of a sculptor (though still much better than me) gave me the idea for the method of getting the correct shape.

As for finishing, I'll share in words (since I don't have pictures) the method I used.

I start out with the primer as the base color, I chose this particular primer since I felt it had a color similar to fired clay with plenty of oxide.

Next, I put down some size on it for the fold leaf, I do the outside first, being random with the application and trying to get an even coat. I don't do the entire outside, just the spots where I want the leaf. I've got a very small bottle of size(which is actually plenty as it goes a long way) from a Mona Lisa gold leaf starter kit. I like it since it is a quick size and if the coat is pretty even, is ready in about 20 minutes and it has a good window of tack time. I'm using real 24kt gold leaf, 2"x2" squares. I lay them on the size and just use my finger to flatten them out. I've read about using velvet or a brush, but I prefer just using my bare hands. I don't get any wrinkles like this and I use leftover pieces from each square to help fill in any missed spots, even if they are just crumbles of the leaf, it all comes out smooth. I do the same on the inside, coat it all with the size and start applying the squares. I found that being random on the inside with applying the leaf helps prevent the lines from square to square, apply them at various angles, tear the leaf before applying so you don't have perfectly straight lines at the edges, and try not to overlap. Fill in the seams with small scraps of leaf. All smoothed out with my fingers, doesn't leave a single wrinkle. I believe doing an entire area with the size and not doing a piece or so at a time helps, even though the leaf is thin, it will show up if you try to overlap the pieces with additional size overtop already applied leaf. Doing it this way, the leaf comes out as smooth as paint.

Once I've removed all the excess leaf that isn't adhered, I start dry brushing with acrylics. I only use four colors, brown (majority), black, white, and burgundy. I start out with a brown and tiny bit of black and burgundy mix, then add a bit of white to it, then add a little bit more white. I don't have any ratios, just mix the paint by eye and keep using the original mix, just add to it. I do about four or five layers of dry brushing.

There's still quite a bit of variance between the leaf and the cup now, so I very lightly go back over with the some sprays, the original primer, black, and grey. Basically just a random overspray type job on it, I don't want to fully cover the leaf. Afterwards I use a satin sealer on the outside and a gloss sealer on the inside.

Finally, I mix a bit of Plaster of Paris, Portland cement, and some ground white sand. Basically, it's concrete without the aggregate. I do it in a rough ratio of 40% PoP, 40% cement, and 10% ground sand. I use a mortar and pestle to grind the sand to a finer consistency, otherwise it would be a bit too rough. I mix it at a 50/50 ratio of powders to water and some PVA glue (to aid adherence). I dab this on the entire outside of the grail with a damp cloth and then use a clean damp cloth to remove most of it. At first it appears that I've wiped it all away, but in a minute or so it starts drying it shows back up, quite a bit actually. Before it fully sets, I use dry cloth to remove some of it. Then it only needs to fully cure.

That's basically it. The finishing method was something I came up with on my own after some experimenting. Hopefully it can help out others who want to do their own Grails.
 
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