My First Pepakura - Magneto

[Radioman]

I was reading a thread on The RPF where users were giving their advice on how to begin making props. The best advice of that whole thread was "Just start". So I took that to heart and decide to dip my toes into pepakura.

Here's my first attempt. I have had this Magneto file for several months and I don't know who to credit for it so I apologize for that.



This file contained only 9 sheets so it's not a very hires pep, as evident by the slight buckling on the curves on the upper back. I picked it because it was the smallest and easiest looking file I could find. Again, this is a project to dip my toes into the water.

This took me roughly five hours to get to that point. Just turn on the TV or music and get into the zone. I didn't do the bridge of the nose detail because on the printed pep, it was really kind of a confusing mess. I might do a hybrid comic / X-Men First Class (ending) since that bridge is cool, while not as spindly.

My next step, from what I see, is Fiberglass resin. Heading out to Lowe's this morning to get that. I need to figure out a way to set the "jaws" of the helmet in place before I resin. Any advice there would be much appreciated.

Here's a question. My thought is to to a coat of resin inside and out and then loading the inside with the fiberglass mesh and another layer of resin. I've been following the YouTube series by boochieboy814 so that seems like a good method.

However, I'd like to perhaps to a clay build on the edges and front "flare" on the Magneto helmet, like the in First Class. Question #1: Once I resin, can I build the clay, then resin again to seal in the clay prior to moving to the bondo stage?

Of course, if I'm screwing up any of this, or if my pep build is crap, anyone can point that out to me as well.

Thanks for reading and any help, in advance.

Mark

 

[Lord Magneto]

Best of luck man. A bit of advice. Make sure to crest sone support for the front face part of the helmet that sticks out before you resin. And make sure it's straight.

Move vie forward with your resin plans. As for the clay edges... Just make sure to buy clay that doesn't shrink when it hardens. I tried that and it didn't have the best results

 

[Radioman]

Yeah, the "jaws" as I call them are tough. Trying to figure out how to secure them for resin while keeping them straight has been challenging. I'm assuming that I can tape some curved cardboard inside, resin the outside, then remove the cardboard and resin the inside.

 

[Radioman]

Today I finally had a chance to do my first resin layer inside and out.



To help with the "jaws" problem I mentioned, I took some stiff but flexible posterboard and did a headwrap of my noggin. I put that inside and taped the jaws to it with double sided tape. That helped give it a little form while I did the first resin layer on the outside. Once that dried, I pulled it out and put a layer on the inside.

Since I'm chronicling this for others who have perhaps not yet attempted this, here's some learnings for today.

1) Wear a good mask. The one I have is ok but I think I'll get a higher quality one tomorrow. Resin is nasty stuff. I took this outside because I didn't want to be enclosed. I live in SoCal so that's maybe not an option for everyone.
2) Do NOT mix fiberglass resin in a styrofoam cup. (I'm just going to leave that one right there.)
3) Have a dedicated trash bucket. You're going to put some nasty **** in there.

It's really amazing how the resin stiffens and coats the card stock. Seriously, if you're afraid to try this (like I was) just start. You'll be surprised how much you will learn, quickly. (Remember! Styrofoam = bad!)

Tomorrow I'll begin laying the fiberglass mesh inside. My next hurdle will be to figure out how to the raised detail around the opening of the mask and the lower edge. I saw a video of a guy doing it with bondo and he ended up with a mess. I'm still considering clay. Once I see how firm the helmet is after fiberglassing, I'll try some tests.

As usual, any advice would be awesome.

Mark

 

[Etriganmx]

It is cool the comic style paintjob (red-purple), how about made a second one helmet with metal finish, like First Class?

 

[Radioman]

Maybe. Like I said, this is my first crack at pepakura, resin and Bondo so I wanted an easy file. I'll probably be done in a month so we'll see what comes next.

 

[bignatedegg56]

I did a mark 3 iron man helmet as my first build and still 2 years later i've still been too lazy/scared to attempt the matting and bondo stage, I don't want to mess it up but gonna start something else soon so it's gonna turn into a practice piece.

I think you've done it right and started on something easier but still cool and the card to keep the jaw parts even is genius!

 

[The_Mike]

Awesome thread! My wife and I are flirting with the thought of trying pepakura and this thread really helps, can't wait to see the final product and learn as well

 

[Radioman]

Short update. I had the time to get my first round of fiberglass mesh in place.

I've only done one layer so far. Might not be the right strategy, but I ran the mesh over the edges and then trimmed. That way I had mesh running right to the edge. I'm going to go back and do one or two more layers on the jaws to hold them in place. Right now, they're laying pretty nicely. I used my poster board rim again on the outside to hold them in place. Yes, resin stuck to it but it was easy to cut out. I only laid resin on the inside, as I have seen in a handful of good videos. I've been following boochieboy814 and using his techniques.

I also grabbed some scrap wood and a thick poster tube and made me a helmet stand. I'll use that on a lazy susan to primer and paint when it's time.

Learnings:

1) Like doing the initial resin, it dries fast. When you have to resin a small area, lay in a piece of mesh, tap out the air bubbles, and then apply more resin on top, your batch will harden very fast. Don't mix more than 4 ounces at a time.
2) Pre-cut your mesh into 2x2" squares. Mesh is messy as **** as the strands get everywhere. I wear rubber gloves when I mesh and laying in the mesh picked up a lot of thread. Have a spare pair of (disposable) gloves handy.
3) My piece got VERY hot as the resin cured this time. Don't worry. It's not going to burst into flame. (Maybe)

Once this dries, you will be amazed how strong this piece has become, especially considering that it started as 110lb card stock. Note the picture below with the brick balancing on top of it.

And for The_Mike, you and the wife should start a project immediately. There's lots of good people here on the RPF that can help. I'm having fun even though I probably don't know what I'm doing!

Next up, two more layers of fiberglass and then the bondo begins. The wife is helping me find clay for the trim. She uses a pasta maker for her craft business so we're going to use that lay out evenly thick strips, bake and then attach to the helmet. I need to do some tests first on what happens when you resin over the partially baked clay. I'll document it for everyone to learn from or laugh at.

And now, pics!

 

[Radioman]

Busy day today!

I decided to add a second layer of fiberglass to the jaws. However, I was talking to my son at the time and completely botched my resin mixture. Thus, I had to clean that out and redo it. Fortunately, the second, correct application hardened. With that, I decided I really wanted to get into the Bondo stage so off I went!

I started by doing some filing on the helmet prior to Bondo. That really didn't work as well as I hoped so I went straight to my mixture. Since this was a lo-res pep, I laid the first layer pretty thick. About 1/4". It took four, golf ball size mixtures to get through it all. I was delighted to learn that Bondo is not nearly as nasty and complicated as the resin.

The Bondo cures in about 30 minutes so I began sanding. And sanding. And sanding. I pulled a lawn chair into my driveway and began shaping my helmet. A 5 year old neighbor walked up and said "Is that a Stormtrooper?" I said "No, it's Magneto." He replied, "That doesn't look very good." I tried not to think about that while sanding another 2 hours.

The sanding really isn't difficult. Since I had to cake this on to make up for my lo-res sins, it is just taking a while. What you see in the pics below is not the final first sand. My hands got tired and I'm taking a break. Note that you will start to see paper showing through. Also, see the little yellow spaces? That is where the paper has been completely sanded off and there's a little fiberglass "window" shining through. Not a big deal. That'll get hit on subsequent layers of Bondo touch up.



Learnings from today:

1) When I cleaned up my resin mess, I had to retrim the fiberglass around the eyes. I had the lack of vision to grab my wife's good sewing scissors. If anyone has a couch I can crash on tonight, that'd be great.
2) I opened a brand new can of Bondo from Home Depot and it was half empty. Not sure who I'm pissed at but next time, I'm going to open it in the store.
3) Use a sanding block. Wrap sandpaper around a piece of scrap wood. Your hand will thank you.
4) When sanding that first layer off, the piece really begins to take shape and you'll get excited! I'm tempted to primer and paint right now!

Now, the big question I still don't have an answer for. How do I do the raised trim? I'm considering trying something called Bendy Clay that you can cook and it's pliable enough to mold. I'll glue that on top of the Bondo layer and then resin and Bondo again.

OR I can just glue Sculpy on top of the final Bondo layer, seal it all with something like Plasti-Dip and go straight to the mold stage.

Any advice appreciated.

Mark

 

[gimpee]

Great Job.

For the raised pieces you can use some grayboard, that way you can have uniform thicknes, even you can sand it if you need to, glue all on top and then resin, this way you don't need bondo in the raised parts.

Good luck.

 

[Radioman]

I'm intrigued. Where can I find grey board?

 

[Radioman]

Today's update:

After a couple more hours of sanding, I decided to go ahead and use the gray board I ended up having in the garage to make the design. I'm doing a mash up helmet between the classic shape with First Class design. (I like the sharper lines over the rounded swirls.)

I drew the design on the helmet and then used tracing paper to make the pattern. I did the design in four parts, glued it down and clamped in place. (If you don't have type of clamps, you should get them. Great when you only have one hand free.)

The gray board also allowed me to fix a weird edge on the helmet back. I used wood putty to fill in the gap. It looks like it's going to come out well.

I did a single, very smooth layer of resin on the design. I wanted to make sure there was no streaks or globs since I wanted to do very little bondo on the design.

So that's it. I might do more later. I AM looking for recommendations on paint. Obviously, red and purple. I like the somewhat sparkly ones that formosa uses:

Formosa-Collection: X Men First Class Magneto Helmet build 3

Any recommendations?

Thanks again. I hope newbies are enjoying my thread!

Mark

 

[gimpee]

Looks nice :thumbsup.

I'm intrigued. Where can I find grey board?

Great, you found some grey board, always is a good idea looking around, sometimes you can find useful stuff in a dark corner, in any case I buy mine in paper-stores (there are different thickness to choose). I use this material mostly in Architectural models but works fine in props too.

Using tracing paper is a great idea to transfer the pattern :thumbsup, I was to suggest some complicated and anti ecological procedure :facepalm.

Well, painting is not my strong so i can't suggest nothing apart from using some good primer as base.

Greetings.

 

[Hazmat]

That's looking fantastic! good job.

 

[Radioman]

Couldn't sleep last night so I pep'd up the crest. Apparently I built the whole damn thing sideways because the pic keeps printing off by 90 degrees.

 

[Cbhurless]

I'd spray a thin layer of gray filler primer at this point. It evens out the color so you can see any ridges or flat spots that need to be sanded out.


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[Cbhurless]

It looks good. Are you sure this is your first build.


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[Radioman]

Yes, first build. But I have been watching a LOT of videos and reading a lot of threads here on the RPF. This is, by far, the best Community on the net. You guys have been a huge help and I feel like I'm finally contributing something.

As for the gray primer, yeah, that's a great idea. I had planned on doing that just prior to painting but it would help level out the color so I can see where I need more build. I need to bondo the design layer first. Might do that tonight. I'm trying to figure out how to get that nice, 1/2" thick layer around the mouth and eye opening and along the bottom ridge. I'm guessing bondo on the inside and out then just filing smooth. I have some fibers showing from the gray board and fiberglass mesh that need to be covered up, somehow.

 

[Lord Magneto]

wow man looking great... love that idea of the tracing paper

why didnt i think of that :facepalm

Keep up the good work man