My Adventures in 3D Printing

[masterjedi322]

Hey Sean,

Have you switched out your nozzle yet? I just did on the Kobra Max to test out a 0.8m nozzle, but I managed to break off the brass nozzle and buggered up the whole hot end. I did the same thing on my old CR-10S so I'm thinking the factory must put in some loctite on the nozzles. When I installed a new hot end on my CR, I could switch nozzles easy, even after months of use.

Good thing is that the hot ends on this machine are not expensive. $20CAD, so I ordered a couple. One, I'll keep at 0.4mm and the other at 0.8mm. The hot end assembly is fairly easy to change, so it would make more sense than unscrewing the nozzles.

Weird thing, is that a hardened steel nozzle is worth about three times the whole hot end on Amazon, but they're supposed to last longer.

TazMan2000

Not on my KM but I swapped out the nozzle on my Vyper, which uses the same hot end.

AnyCubic has a video for the Vyper that basically has you heat up the hot end to its max temp, hold the block with a pair of pliers or something, and then remove the nozzle. Seemed to work for me without damaging anything.

Have you seen the new Kobra 2 Max? It’s only slightly larger than the KM, but has a few other upgrades. I’m seriously looking at replacing my KM as I have a 3D printed R2 project on the horizon…

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max: Flagship High-Speed Large-Format FDM 3D Printer

With a remarkable 500mm/s maximum printing speed and an expansive 88L printing volume, Anycubic Kobra 2 Max surpasses its predecessor, the Anycubic Kobra Max. This upgraded version offers a significantly larger size and faster printing capabilities.

www.anycubic.com

Sean

 

[Iskelderon]

Not on my KM but I swapped out the nozzle on my Vyper, which uses the same hot end.

AnyCubic has a video for the Vyper that basically has you heat up the hot end to its max temp, hold the block with a pair of pliers or something, and then remove the nozzle. Seemed to work for me without damaging anything.

Have you seen the new Kobra 2 Max? It’s only slightly larger than the KM, but has a few other upgrades. I’m seriously looking at replacing my KM as I have a 3D printed R2 project on the horizon…

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max: Flagship High-Speed Large-Format FDM 3D Printer

With a remarkable 500mm/s maximum printing speed and an expansive 88L printing volume, Anycubic Kobra 2 Max surpasses its predecessor, the Anycubic Kobra Max. This upgraded version offers a significantly larger size and faster printing capabilities.

www.anycubic.com

Sean

I'll probably get a used one when print farms get rid of theirs, but it's nice to for once see a print volume for more than just the occasional Benchy.

 

[TazMan2000]

Not on my KM but I swapped out the nozzle on my Vyper, which uses the same hot end.

AnyCubic has a video for the Vyper that basically has you heat up the hot end to its max temp, hold the block with a pair of pliers or something, and then remove the nozzle. Seemed to work for me without damaging anything.

Have you seen the new Kobra 2 Max? It’s only slightly larger than the KM, but has a few other upgrades. I’m seriously looking at replacing my KM as I have a 3D printed R2 project on the horizon…

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max: Flagship High-Speed Large-Format FDM 3D Printer

With a remarkable 500mm/s maximum printing speed and an expansive 88L printing volume, Anycubic Kobra 2 Max surpasses its predecessor, the Anycubic Kobra Max. This upgraded version offers a significantly larger size and faster printing capabilities.

www.anycubic.com

Sean

Yeah. I followed the instructions. It has to be hot as to ensure the melted filament doesn’t clog the threads and prevent the nozzle from turning.

I removed the nozzle on the new hot end and it did have some sort of compound on the threads. There shouldn’t be any to my knowledge. Even anti-seize compound can cause problems when extruding.

I wish that waited a couple of weeks. I could have got the new Kobra 2.

TazMan2000

 

[masterjedi322]

Haven’t been doing a ton of printing as of late, but recently took on a handful of commissions.

Here’s a replica of Baylan Skoll’s lightsaber from Ahsoka, printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K in Phrozen’s ABS-like resin.

These parts are right out of the cure station so no surface prep has been done. Everything is dry fit.

Files are from Mystery Makers.

Sean

 

[TazMan2000]

Turned out nice.

TazMan2000

 

[masterjedi322]

Been a minute since I've updated this thread...

Not much printing going on...until recently.

Finally bit the bullet and picked up a Bambu Labs printer, namely the P1S. I went with the P1S vs the X1 to see if Bambu was really as great as everyone made them out to be and to save a little money (I have a sneaky feeling Bambu will release a larger printer soon, although I have ZERO data to back that up ).

Initial impressions - wow. Works right out of the box. Took ~30 min to set up (Bambu advertises 15 min). I probably could have done it quicker but wanted to take my time and not rush. Easy to set up. Well built. Well packaged.

So far I've printed PLA and ABS. No fine tuning. No tweaking. No adjustments. Just load the filament. Run the files through the Bambu slicer, upload to the printer, and you're off! And man, this thing is fast! Printed a benchy in ~15 minutes and another file in ~30 min that took ~2 hours on my AnyCubic.

Going to run some PETG and TPU through it soon to see how it handles those.

For those looking for their first FDM printer, Bambu is generally comparatively more expensive, but I think it's worth it. Included in the P1S is a camera and free software that allows you to remotely load files via wifi, stream the camera to monitor your prints, create timelapses, etc. No moving memory cards back and forth (although you can), no having to set up OctoPod or any of the other remote 3D printer programs. It has everything built in. And if you're looking to save yourself the headache of having to tweak a less expensive FDM printer, this is the way to go (although I think you'd be missing out on the bigger learning part of 3D printing).

It self-calibrates in ~15 min, and then you're good.

Overall, very happy with it! Looking to start 3D-printing an R2-D2 soon, so this printer is about to be put through its paces!

More to come!

Sean

 

[mrwax]

I have been desperately tempted by Bambu printers lately, and nearly bought an A1 combo when my Prusa Mini started acting up. Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending how you look at it), I managed to diagnose and fix the issue (worn out x-axis belt) for a few bucks and I decided to hold off until we see what's coming next from Bambu.

I'm sure the P1S will treat you well, they really seem to just work.

 

[Bengrim09]

Been a minute since I've updated this thread...

Not much printing going on...until recently.

Finally bit the bullet and picked up a Bambu Labs printer, namely the P1S. I went with the P1S vs the X1 to see if Bambu was really as great as everyone made them out to be and to save a little money (I have a sneaky feeling Bambu will release a larger printer soon, although I have ZERO data to back that up ).

View attachment 1854976

Initial impressions - wow. Works right out of the box. Took ~30 min to set up (Bambu advertises 15 min). I probably could have done it quicker but wanted to take my time and not rush. Easy to set up. Well built. Well packaged.

So far I've printed PLA and ABS. No fine tuning. No tweaking. No adjustments. Just load the filament. Run the files through the Bambu slicer, upload to the printer, and you're off! And man, this thing is fast! Printed a benchy in ~15 minutes and another file in ~30 min that took ~2 hours on my AnyCubic.

View attachment 1854977

Going to run some PETG and TPU through it soon to see how it handles those.

For those looking for their first FDM printer, Bambu is generally comparatively more expensive, but I think it's worth it. Included in the P1S is a camera and free software that allows you to remotely load files via wifi, stream the camera to monitor your prints, create timelapses, etc. No moving memory cards back and forth (although you can), no having to set up OctoPod or any of the other remote 3D printer programs. It has everything built in. And if you're looking to save yourself the headache of having to tweak a less expensive FDM printer, this is the way to go (although I think you'd be missing out on the bigger learning part of 3D printing).

It self-calibrates in ~15 min, and then you're good.

Overall, very happy with it! Looking to start 3D-printing an R2-D2 soon, so this printer is about to be put through its paces!

More to come!

Sean

Considering a bambu printer or 2 next year for the workshop, I’ve 2 cr10s work horses that have done me proud over 4 years or so and it might be a time for a change

 

[masterjedi322]

I’ve successfully run PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG through this thing. The only one that’s really given my any issue was the clear PETG where I got some stringing and layer debonding. Others have come out pretty good given I’ve done zero tuning.

TPU door stop. This was pretty huge for me as I’ve failed to print TPU with any of my other printers…

ABS brackets for mounting my laptop under my desk:

ABS “poop chute” bin - the Bambu printers discard purged filament through an opening in the back of the printer, fondly referred to as the poop chute.

A test print of R2’s eye in PETG. I’m leaning towards using PETG for my 3D-printed R2 (more to come on that in a separate thread). Not bad!

Already thinking of buying a few more of these!

Sean

 

[joberg]

I’ve successfully run PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG through this thing. The only one that’s really given my any issue was the clear PETG where I got some stringing and layer debonding. Others have come out pretty good given I’ve done zero tuning.

TPU door stop. This was pretty huge for me as I’ve failed to print TPU with any of my other printers…

View attachment 1857539View attachment 1857540

ABS brackets for mounting my laptop under my desk:
View attachment 1857542


ABS “poop chute” bin - the Bambu printers discard purged filament through an opening in the back of the printer, fondly referred to as the poop chute.
View attachment 1857543

A test print of R2’s eye in PETG. I’m leaning towards using PETG for my 3D-printed R2 (more to come on that in a separate thread). Not bad!
View attachment 1857544

Already thinking of buying a few more of these!

Sean

That PTEG print looks smooth.

Edit: at more than $1250, here in Canada, the wife will have a heart attack if I ask for one

 

[masterjedi322]

Ultimately decided on printing my R2 in PETG-CF, which is carbon-fiber infused PETG. Tried a brand off Amazon as I was too impatient to wait for the Bambu stuff - not bad:

Then I got the Bambu stuff - damn, that's smooth!

Sean

 

[masterjedi322]

Probably my only complaint with Bambu is that they haven’t offered a larger printer, which sounds like they are about to remedy.

Curious what all these “cutting edge” features will be. I’d be happy with a 500x500x500mm P1S, but sounds like it’s going to be much more than that! I am worried about the price. While I think Bambu printers offer a competitive total package price, I am concerned this is going to be beyond the range of most hobbyists. Guess we’ll find out!

Sean

 

[masterjedi322]

Picked up the AMS for the Bambu. This lets you mix different filaments, colors, etc. in a single print. Fairly straightforward to set up!

Sean

 

[masterjedi322]

Not sure if anyone follows Bambu, but they announced their latest printer today, the H2D.

Bigger print volume (~325 mm x 325 x 325) - although I would have liked to have seem something in the 400-500 mm range...

Lots of new technology - AI monitoring, revamped AMS, dual-nozzle extruder, laser engraving and cutting capabilities.

More deets here - Bambu Lab H2D|3D Printer|Laser Engrave Cut|Plotting All-in-one

I'll probably pick one up but will wait for the 40W laser version to have a nice all-in-one.

Thoughts?

Sean

 

[KaanE]

Not sure if anyone follows Bambu, but they announced their latest printer today, the H2D.

Bigger print volume (~325 cm x 325 x 325) - although I would have liked to have seem something in the 400-500 cm range...

Lots of new technology - AI monitoring, revamped AMS, dual-nozzle extruder, laser engraving and cutting capabilities.

More deets here - Bambu Lab H2D|3D Printer|Laser Engrave Cut|Plotting All-in-one

I'll probably pick one up but will wait for the 40W laser version to have a nice all-in-one.

Thoughts?

Sean

Pretty sure you mean mm, not cm, that would be brutal, you could print a full 1:1 car.

 

[masterjedi322]

Pretty sure you mean mm, not cm, that would be brutal, you could print a full 1:1 car.

Ah yes, good catch! Corrected.

Sean

 

[TazMan2000]

Not sure if anyone follows Bambu, but they announced their latest printer today, the H2D.

Bigger print volume (~325 mm x 325 x 325) - although I would have liked to have seem something in the 400-500 cm range...

Lots of new technology - AI monitoring, revamped AMS, dual-nozzle extruder, laser engraving and cutting capabilities.

More deets here - Bambu Lab H2D|3D Printer|Laser Engrave Cut|Plotting All-in-one

I'll probably pick one up but will wait for the 40W laser version to have a nice all-in-one.

Thoughts?

Sean

The print volume is actually 325x320x325 using a single nozzle. If you use both nozzles the print volume goes to 300x220x325.
Still pretty good though.

TazMan2000

 

[masterjedi322]

The print volume is actually 325x320x325 using a single nozzle. If you use both nozzles the print volume goes to 300x220x325.
Still pretty good though.

TazMan2000

Still not big enough

Sean

 

[chubsANDdoggers]

Absolutely love my BL P1S. I’ve had mine now for close to two years and run it all the time. Brilliant printer that just simply works. It blows me away just how clean the prints can be off this thing..

 

[dproc]

My P1S has been a game changer for quick projects. I have little time to tinker and it means I knock out a project in a fraction of the time. Im fitting a part or making up the next 3D file while another prints and its like an assembly line! The detail and smoothness (especially when ironing) is mind blowing. I almost never sand and paint anymore if its a colour I can use from the filament. I use raw parts for a lot of it! They look like manufactured parts and more realistic than painted usually! I made an SMG style blaster to go with my Pistol in a weekend again. Did the 3D parts up through the week in spare time at work and banged it together on a wood frame over the weekend. If you're on the fence with a printer, a P1S or X1.. or new H2D is phenomenal. (Not a paid presentation! lol)