Didn’t know Cura worked with resin printers…? I use Cura for FDM but Lychee for resin.
Sean
Sean
My Adventures in 3D Printing
- Thread starter masterjedi322
- Start date
KaanE
Sr Member
I'm using it for FDM but thought it also worked with resin. Pretry sure I must be wrong.
I could try that, although I’m unsure which version introduced this bug so not sure what version I’d roll back to...
Yeah, no worries. As far as I’m aware, Cura is only for FDM printers.
Sean
Finally finished printing the Mystery Makers Boba Fett EE3 rifle for a friend of mine who is making a Mando S2 Boba (aka Boba Fresh).
Overall, pretty happy with how things came out, despite the various printer issues I ran into. The Phrozen Protowhite Rigid resin is some tough stuff, albeit expensive. For a prop that’s going to see a lot of handling, I think it’ll do well.
~70 parts in all. Look forward to seeing what my buddy does with it!
Sean
Overall, pretty happy with how things came out, despite the various printer issues I ran into. The Phrozen Protowhite Rigid resin is some tough stuff, albeit expensive. For a prop that’s going to see a lot of handling, I think it’ll do well.
~70 parts in all. Look forward to seeing what my buddy does with it!
Sean
Yay for working printers!
if you're looking for some alternative tougher resins in the future that arent that expensive-- the sunlu ABS-like has been great for me.
Only ~$17 for a kilo. And it is surprisingly actually tough! Dropped an ear cap for a mando bucket, and a separate part for a blade runner blaster directly onto concrete the other day and both parts held up w/ 0 damage. It was tough drops too-- one of those drops where you try and catch the item and just end up slapping it harder down into the floor haha.
if you're looking for some alternative tougher resins in the future that arent that expensive-- the sunlu ABS-like has been great for me.
Only ~$17 for a kilo. And it is surprisingly actually tough! Dropped an ear cap for a mando bucket, and a separate part for a blade runner blaster directly onto concrete the other day and both parts held up w/ 0 damage. It was tough drops too-- one of those drops where you try and catch the item and just end up slapping it harder down into the floor haha.
DutchNibbles
Member
I believe Lychee slicer now supports FDM printers.
Thanks for the suggestion! I am printing another rifle for a friend, and I’m going to use Phrozen’s ABS-like resin, which is significantly cheaper than the Protowhite Rigid stuff. We’ll see how durable it is…
Yes, although their FDM printing is still in the Beta phase. I tried a a few times and had mixed results. My biggest gripe right now is there is no support blocker function, which I rely heavily on when printing pieces like helmets.
While I love the idea of having a single slicer suite for both resin and FDM printing, Lychee’s FDM capabilities are just not there yet… IMHO.
Sean
DutchNibbles
Member
I haven’t tried Lychee slicer myself, but good to know you have for FDM. Seems it’s not worth trying until they’ve added more features, like you say support blockers. I use those quite a bit too.
Was printing another Foundling helmet for a friend of mine and had a few issues…
In total, the print was about 60 hours, primarily because I bumped up the infill (the helmet is for a kid so I expect a lot of rough handling)…
First attempt, the nozzle clogged around the 90% complete mark…oof
Second attempt, I was checking on the print - it was around 80% complete when the printer just stopped running. DIdn’t shut down. Didn’t throw a fault. Just stopped. After trying what I could, had to reboot it and start over.
Third time’s the charm, as they say…
Foundling helmet file is from Patreon
Printed in black PLA+
Sean
In total, the print was about 60 hours, primarily because I bumped up the infill (the helmet is for a kid so I expect a lot of rough handling)…
First attempt, the nozzle clogged around the 90% complete mark…oof
Second attempt, I was checking on the print - it was around 80% complete when the printer just stopped running. DIdn’t shut down. Didn’t throw a fault. Just stopped. After trying what I could, had to reboot it and start over.
Third time’s the charm, as they say…
Foundling helmet file is from Patreon
Printed in black PLA+
Sean
Quietly chugging along here. While most of my personal 3D printing projects are done (for now), I’ve been helping a few friends with some commission work…
Most recently was a Yokai mask from Big Hero 6. Printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K in Phrozen’s ABS-like resin.
Sean
Most recently was a Yokai mask from Big Hero 6. Printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K in Phrozen’s ABS-like resin.
Sean
Not been on for a while, I printed and finished the same E-33 files from MM they are a good set of files but I made a hardwood stock, still some weathering to do but great files
Been working on the 1960s Time Machine, but my Saturn printer isn’t big enough for the back disc, I’ve had to split it up but it’s very problematic to print, getting lines on my print and looks like layers are shifting any ideas?
Going to give it a little cleaning and service and change the resin
Going to give it a little cleaning and service and change the resin
Was my thoughts too, might also change the fep it could be slightly stretched
Yaan
Active Member
I think you should angle the prints to get a better surface. There is a certain printer / layer height ratio to get perfect surfaces. This has to do with the generated pixels which are uneven on straight structures which print parallel to the bed. Also, you can use lychee slicer and use the anti-aliasing feature which can smoothen a bit...
Here is a calculator for your angle:
Angle calculator for smooth surfaces in resin printing – RC87
Here is a calculator for your angle:
Angle calculator for smooth surfaces in resin printing – RC87
TazMan2000
Master Member
Based on masterjedi322 's info and recommendations (Thanks, Sean), plus reviews off of YT, I finally got a Anycubic Kobra Max to replace my old workhorse CR10S. I printed out the included owl and despite a little bit of stringing and some bubbling on top, it turned out pretty good for my needs.
I'm looking forward to test the speed out on this thing. The new version of CURA now has a profile for this.
My old CR10S was configured with a 200 C temp which seemed to be the sweet spot. 190 degrees and the filament wouldn't move. With the Kobra Max it seems to run out of the hot end a little too much, which might be the reason for the stringing besides the retraction setting. The nozzle has a very long threaded portion compared to the CR10S and that aids in heating up the filament fast and pushing a lot of it out. I'm soon going to try it out on a much larger project.
TazMan2000
I'm looking forward to test the speed out on this thing. The new version of CURA now has a profile for this.
My old CR10S was configured with a 200 C temp which seemed to be the sweet spot. 190 degrees and the filament wouldn't move. With the Kobra Max it seems to run out of the hot end a little too much, which might be the reason for the stringing besides the retraction setting. The nozzle has a very long threaded portion compared to the CR10S and that aids in heating up the filament fast and pushing a lot of it out. I'm soon going to try it out on a much larger project.
TazMan2000
Awesome!
One thing I’d recommend is picking up a flexible PEI sheet for it. The adhesion is so good that I snapped a few of the stock glass beds…
Look forward to seeing what speeds you can get!
Sean
TazMan2000
Master Member
Thanks for the advice. I just ordered one. The test files I printed were at 80mm/s and I'm impressed with that, but I'm going to bump it up to 100 and see if quality suffers by any significant amount.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
Master Member
Hey Sean,
Have you switched out your nozzle yet? I just did on the Kobra Max to test out a 0.8m nozzle, but I managed to break off the brass nozzle and buggered up the whole hot end. I did the same thing on my old CR-10S so I'm thinking the factory must put in some loctite on the nozzles. When I installed a new hot end on my CR, I could switch nozzles easy, even after months of use.
Good thing is that the hot ends on this machine are not expensive. $20CAD, so I ordered a couple. One, I'll keep at 0.4mm and the other at 0.8mm. The hot end assembly is fairly easy to change, so it would make more sense than unscrewing the nozzles.
Weird thing, is that a hardened steel nozzle is worth about three times the whole hot end on Amazon, but they're supposed to last longer.
TazMan2000
Have you switched out your nozzle yet? I just did on the Kobra Max to test out a 0.8m nozzle, but I managed to break off the brass nozzle and buggered up the whole hot end. I did the same thing on my old CR-10S so I'm thinking the factory must put in some loctite on the nozzles. When I installed a new hot end on my CR, I could switch nozzles easy, even after months of use.
Good thing is that the hot ends on this machine are not expensive. $20CAD, so I ordered a couple. One, I'll keep at 0.4mm and the other at 0.8mm. The hot end assembly is fairly easy to change, so it would make more sense than unscrewing the nozzles.
Weird thing, is that a hardened steel nozzle is worth about three times the whole hot end on Amazon, but they're supposed to last longer.
TazMan2000
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