<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(yt @ Mar 24 2007, 04:11 AM) [snapback]1446850[/snapback]</div>
I would also like to hear some ideas in this department...
[/b]
Try this. Get a 5/8 bit of acrylic rod. Take you heat gun, and if you have it use the "duckbill" nozzle. All it does is help heat a wider area a bit more controlled, but if you don't, just move the gun a lot to keep from browning/burning the acrylic. Now, on a CLEAN flat surface heat it up, gently, in the area you want the bend to be until you can bend it. GENTLY bend until you get the desired curve, keeping the heat working over the area. I'd recommend a 45, some distance like 2-3 inches, and another 45. Cut the excess length off to fit your display, and you're set. If you plan it right, do a little less than 45 on both, and you X-wing won't fall off as it will be in a nice gentle climb and the weight of the model will keep it on the stand a bit better, and
"bend" it closer to 90 under spring tension. 5/8 should be enough to hold the weight of an X like this, but I haven't tried it personally. You mileage may vary, as if you work the acrylic using too much heat and a fast bend it may shatter (eventually) under the weight. Oh, and 1/2 inch copper REPAIR sleeves (NOT 1/2 inch copper pipe) will make a great receiver "plug" in you X. Lowe's stocks 'em, DePit does not.
You'll need to bond the receiver plug to the X somehow . . . take a look at what I did on my SMT shuttle for an example HERE:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w5/bell...ood/bsgs007.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w5/bell...ood/bsgs008.jpg
After extra resin reinforcement:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w5/bell...ood/bsgs020.jpg
Its pretty damn sturdy now.
And yes, I did NOT bend the acrylic on this one, no real need. An angled plug handled the "bank and climb" I wanted without that work.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w5/bell...ood/bsgs012.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w5/bell...ood/bsgs009.jpg
Hope that helps you out.
Ryan