Gonna start out with the ESB graflex - I'm sure we already know what one looks like but here you go!
From some cursory research (many thanks to the members here!) I believe it to be a smooth pinned Folmer Graflex with patent. I'm not sure if that is the exact version of any particular screen used saber, but I'm very happy with it.
This is actually my second Graflex 3 cell... I bought my first a few days beforehand and am currently waiting on it from the USA! And to think I nearly thought I could do with just the one.. but the marketing men got me at a young age with the Star Wars figures and now I'm throwing money at anything Star Wars shaped.
In fact, as I wrote that previous paragraph the UPS man came with the Denix Mauser I ordered for a DL-44 conversion (I won't be taking outside pictures of that, the neighbours would phone the police!!)
I'm busy with work at the moment but I've been preparing some of roygilsing's lovely parts. I left the screws out in the garden for a week to take the 21st century sheen away (although they perhaps went a bit too far!) and left the t-track in a box of water with some rock dust. The water evaporated and has left a a dusty residue that I will brush off to leave a "used" appearance.
As for the activation board, I rubbed it down with a shop receipt to leave some feint grey grubbiness conducive with constant contact to the user's hand. Similar to using newsprint to dirty up storm trooper armour. It's quite hard to make out in the sun, but it makes it look pre-owned.
The one thing that I find can go wrong with weathering is not knowing when to stop. I think I went a bit far with the rub down and it removed a tad too much of the silver. Now the silver is completely gone from the sweat of my thumb pretending to turn the saber on as soon as the postman delivered it. Authentic weathering fail :lol - Got another board ready though and will be sure to put some dullcote or something on to block sweat issues.
Obligatory clip dent
This was in the garden too and developed some rust where the d-ring links into the clip. I think I'll remove it.
Lingering questions for those who are knowledgeable:
1) I'm terrified of breaking the clamp lever. I have it quite loose at the moment. I take it you tighten it until it grips the tube as the clamp is intended to grip a metal bar that isn't there. What lever position is optimum/safe?
2) This 3 cell is missing the tiny screw on the clamp. Will it fly apart from swishing? Will the forces put undue pressure on the clamp lever? (which is holding the tube together by its tension in lieu of the screw) I've already thought of putting a wooden dowel in the tube and screwing a replacement screw into the dowel
3) Before I go full ESB on this, is this 3 Cell model (Folmer Graflex with patent and smooth pins) more accurately suited to a different sabre? I enjoy accuracy and can imagine possibly being tempted to remake this in the future if I find out the version is different enough.
From some cursory research (many thanks to the members here!) I believe it to be a smooth pinned Folmer Graflex with patent. I'm not sure if that is the exact version of any particular screen used saber, but I'm very happy with it.
This is actually my second Graflex 3 cell... I bought my first a few days beforehand and am currently waiting on it from the USA! And to think I nearly thought I could do with just the one.. but the marketing men got me at a young age with the Star Wars figures and now I'm throwing money at anything Star Wars shaped.
In fact, as I wrote that previous paragraph the UPS man came with the Denix Mauser I ordered for a DL-44 conversion (I won't be taking outside pictures of that, the neighbours would phone the police!!)
I'm busy with work at the moment but I've been preparing some of roygilsing's lovely parts. I left the screws out in the garden for a week to take the 21st century sheen away (although they perhaps went a bit too far!) and left the t-track in a box of water with some rock dust. The water evaporated and has left a a dusty residue that I will brush off to leave a "used" appearance.
As for the activation board, I rubbed it down with a shop receipt to leave some feint grey grubbiness conducive with constant contact to the user's hand. Similar to using newsprint to dirty up storm trooper armour. It's quite hard to make out in the sun, but it makes it look pre-owned.
The one thing that I find can go wrong with weathering is not knowing when to stop. I think I went a bit far with the rub down and it removed a tad too much of the silver. Now the silver is completely gone from the sweat of my thumb pretending to turn the saber on as soon as the postman delivered it. Authentic weathering fail :lol - Got another board ready though and will be sure to put some dullcote or something on to block sweat issues.
Obligatory clip dent
This was in the garden too and developed some rust where the d-ring links into the clip. I think I'll remove it.
Lingering questions for those who are knowledgeable:
1) I'm terrified of breaking the clamp lever. I have it quite loose at the moment. I take it you tighten it until it grips the tube as the clamp is intended to grip a metal bar that isn't there. What lever position is optimum/safe?
2) This 3 cell is missing the tiny screw on the clamp. Will it fly apart from swishing? Will the forces put undue pressure on the clamp lever? (which is holding the tube together by its tension in lieu of the screw) I've already thought of putting a wooden dowel in the tube and screwing a replacement screw into the dowel
3) Before I go full ESB on this, is this 3 Cell model (Folmer Graflex with patent and smooth pins) more accurately suited to a different sabre? I enjoy accuracy and can imagine possibly being tempted to remake this in the future if I find out the version is different enough.
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