Model painters, do you use spray cans or the small airbrush?
- Thread starter JimShaw
- Start date
For larger areas I use spray cans. For smaller, detailed work I use an airbrush.
Sean
Sean
Are you less likely to screwup using an airbrush?
franz bolo
Sr Member
On the type of models I make, I want a texture so that when you weather the model it looks more realistic.
I don't like it when the surface is too pristine!
I airbrush most of the weathering though.
FB
MonsieurTox
Master Member
Same here.
When I replicate a studio model, I use most of the time rattle cans because that's what they used and it helps for the weathering as Franz said.
Airbrush for weathering, markings etc...
If you do regular models, I'm mean you're not replicating a filming mini (which has to have a rough surface to catch the light), so go for the airbrush, mainly if that's a small scale.
Zombie_61
Master Member
I've been building models since the late 60s, and I've never used an airbrush. I use spray cans for basecoats and (depending on the look I'm trying to achieve) hand painting, dry brushing, and/or washes for detail and weathering.
If you're trying to get a smoother finish from a spray can, heat the can before you use it. I soak mine in a bucket of hot tap water for 5-10 minutes (I put them in a plastic bag first so the water won't damage the label or rust the can) and shake them thoroughly before use; the heat thins the paint slightly, which results in a nicer finish. Nice thin coats, and let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next.
That said, for natural-looking effects like shading and highlighting IMO you almost have to use an airbrush (unless you're a really skilled brush painter). Also, airbrushes are invaluable if you're constantly mixing custom colors that have to be sprayed onto large areas. I'm sure I'll get one some day, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
If you're trying to get a smoother finish from a spray can, heat the can before you use it. I soak mine in a bucket of hot tap water for 5-10 minutes (I put them in a plastic bag first so the water won't damage the label or rust the can) and shake them thoroughly before use; the heat thins the paint slightly, which results in a nicer finish. Nice thin coats, and let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next.
That said, for natural-looking effects like shading and highlighting IMO you almost have to use an airbrush (unless you're a really skilled brush painter). Also, airbrushes are invaluable if you're constantly mixing custom colors that have to be sprayed onto large areas. I'm sure I'll get one some day, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.
That is great info. I have never heard anything about warming spray cans, thinning the paint to get a smoother finish.
Yes, I can see how that can work. I lay epoxy coatings on concrete amd I add special thinners to produce a smoother finish also.
I can see how I would have to spray lightly each time I go over the model with thinner paint.
I will test it on a couple thinks to see how it works.
Thanks
Gigatron
Sr Member
Don't limit yourself to any one kind of medium. For large areas, use a can; for smaller areas, custom or hard-to-find colrs, use an airbrush.
I don't think I've ever painted a model without using spraycans, airbrushes and regular brushes. It's almost impossible to get realistic finishes without using all of them.
-Fred
I don't think I've ever painted a model without using spraycans, airbrushes and regular brushes. It's almost impossible to get realistic finishes without using all of them.
-Fred
Well,most everything has been covered.I use a combination of spray cans,hand brushing with washes/dry brushing (pastels) and the ocasional airbrush.Plus, there are lots of other cool ways/techniques to achieve realistic weathering and finishes.FSM is a good resource as is SSM.It may be repetive, but that's because the techniques yield great results.I'm still learning how to use and be comfortable with the double action brush.Its not as easy as it may appear.Maybe for others it may be?Single actions are easy, double action takes more finese and cordination and there are lots of other factors that can affect the paint and airbrush performance.In my experience, you get what you pay for and research of the right brands&tools will make things all the easier.I just dove in not really knowing what I was doing and purchased the wrong tools for the kind of work I know I'm doing and will be doing.A hard and expensive lesson learned.
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Personally, I find spray cans easier to use because you're not worrying about flow or air/paint mixture. On the other hand, you have a lot less control with a spray can, so it all really depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
Sean
trekman1017
Well-Known Member
I use a spray can because it is a lot cheaper than an air brush.
CB2001
Master Member
I've used spray cans to paint my models. But I didn't use model paint, I used automotive paint. And you can spray on coats after 10 minutes per coat, which normally would be two to cover a completely model body. I swear that Dupli-Color automotive primer and paint works great. I even used it on my Midway Sonic Screwdriver for the Dollar Store Sonic Screwdriver contest.
Hi, I do a lot of custom painting as a sideline (guitars/bike helmets etc) and I would say a decent automotive clear is your best bet, for gloss I would say UPol Clear #1 or Lechler Energy Spray Line Clear. They're both intended for Smart repairs on automotive paint and hold up well. I would do a patch test on the paints you've used though as most automotive clears contain a ot of solvents that could well pickle your underlying finish if you've used enamels!
hi
so many great answers here, I'll just put my pennys worth in too, totally totally agree with the warming cans up, and i suspect user Zombie_61 is or was in the motor trade, as my dad whos was in the motor trade told me that trick too, and trust me,it not only helps the paint flow better, your get a better coverage too, ive always used cans, (ex graffitti artist) but i keep meaning to get myself an airbrush, just to play with,but most of my detail is drybrushed,
also on a finishing side of things. ive always nibbed (flatted the final coat, just gently with 1200 or higher and a bar of soap and warm water, this helps get rid of any tiny runs, grit,dust etc, then i using a cutting compound and a good polish, its a chore but the results are worth it, its what i did with my gigantic optimus prime,
hope this helps too
all the best
colin
so many great answers here, I'll just put my pennys worth in too, totally totally agree with the warming cans up, and i suspect user Zombie_61 is or was in the motor trade, as my dad whos was in the motor trade told me that trick too, and trust me,it not only helps the paint flow better, your get a better coverage too, ive always used cans, (ex graffitti artist) but i keep meaning to get myself an airbrush, just to play with,but most of my detail is drybrushed,
also on a finishing side of things. ive always nibbed (flatted the final coat, just gently with 1200 or higher and a bar of soap and warm water, this helps get rid of any tiny runs, grit,dust etc, then i using a cutting compound and a good polish, its a chore but the results are worth it, its what i did with my gigantic optimus prime,
hope this helps too
all the best
colin
Zombie_61
Master Member
I sold and mounted tires for a living for about a year, and did a few oil changes while I was there, but that's about it. However, I've been building model kits since the late 60s, and you tend to pick up a few tricks in 40+ years.
