Metal like finishes and weathering

[franz bolo]

I have a toy I'm customizing and want it to look like weathered metal. I want the finish to look like a heavily used gun or a tank etc.

What are some good paints/techniques I can use? Are there any real good links? I'll search the Modeling thread for other ideas.

Thanks

FB

 

[superjedi]

A technique I just experimented with involves sprinkling pastel powder into Testors Metalizer paint while it's still wet. Then buffing once dry.
I recently used this method on my Coyle C & S blaster, and I think it came out pretty well.
Search for my thread in the props forum. There's some pics there.

 

[SKS_STUDIOS]

I sprayed a base coat of silver under my primary paint color, and then sanded/chipped the paint off in the area's I wanted "metal" too show through. Combine that with a steady hand and some chrome paint, and the results come out fairly nice for a "chipped paint" look around the sharp edges. After this is done, I will airbrush more weathering in certain area's to age the base coat of paint as well.

Here's a small closeup of a small section of a Proton pack I am working on.

Cam

 

[Zombie_61]

Strong work Cam--that looks very realistic.

 

[Howard]

I use Humbrol Metal cote - mainly the 'polished steel,' but it comes in other finishes. It's around £1 a tin.
On a small area you can brush it on, but for larger areas it's best to use an airbrush.
It dries very quickly and can be rubbed with a cloth to produce a metal sheen. Once this is done I use any silver paint, drybrushed on raised areas.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

Heya GBcam. I see you made the jump from 'topia.

I sometimes use a similar technique. Instead of chipping, I usually lay down a black acrylic top coat (such as Tamiya) over a laquer-based silver/metallic (auto paint). I can then buff the edges with an Ajax/alcohol-dipped cloth that makes the paint look like it has slowly eroded from handling.

 

[SKS_STUDIOS]

Yes sir I did. I can't keep track of all the boards I am a member of now.. I think 5 in total?

Good Idea on the two different paint types. I'd have never thought to go that route. My last pack had nothing but rubbed on and airbrush weathering, so there were no sharp details in the paint flaw's. I am liking the look of the chipped paint on the edges so far, and the wand will be the same style, except with more 'rub' marks around the buttons/switches using some of the above idea's.

If franz uses a little bit of everyone's idea's, it should turn out to be a kick ass piece.



Cam

 

[franz bolo]

Thanks for the ideas.

I primed the piece and then used Tamiya metal spraypaint. I then added a liquid frisket with a sponge.

After that was dry, I sprayed the paint on top. I then added some frisket to the green then stencilled the star.

I have to weather it next. Any ideas? I have read about washed and pastels but have never done it yet.

FB

 

[OdiWan72]

Hey FB, what´s "frisket"...some kind of masking fluid?

Markus

 

[franz bolo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OdiWan72 @ Mar 20 2007, 08:31 AM) [snapback]1443924[/snapback]</div>

Hey FB, what´s "frisket"...some kind of masking fluid?

Markus
[/b]

Yes. It's used in watercolor painting. You put it down where you don't want any paint to be.

I used the Winsor Newton type. It dries rubbery and you rub it off with your hand. I've also read people use salt instead of the Liquid Frisket.

FB

 

[tk8456]

I always use 3 or for different types of metal paint and rub with a cloth in ONe direction, rather like a grain.

Humbrol paints are good. Gun metal, silver, darker silvers etc. Add them on lightest first to darkest. Add water to it if you get brush strokes but if you use a cloth you won't.

This is my girlfriends Zam Wessel chest armour

The 'dirt' is just old old paint purposely lefdt to go tacky. If too hard add some fresh and mix it up. Add some glue to it too. Dab the mix on with a cloth, let it dry. Then rub it smooth.

Add rub n buff over it if you like but it's not needed if you use the same cloth for the whole piece as bits of paint come off the cloth anyway.

I could do this again to get rid of some of the smudges but stuff it. It's not my costume. LOL

That's for flat surfaces and waethering that type.

For edgaes you just add shiny silver first then paint tacky paint on top of that to make it look like it's chipped.

I did experiment with sliver first then a glue paint mix after it's dry dry dry. Peel bits off to reveal the shiny underside. Worked ok

 

[franz bolo]

Wow. Looks great. When you apply the silver, do you leave areas of the bottom layter showing? Does using the cloth give you the right look?

FB

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GbCam @ Mar 16 2007, 10:51 PM) [snapback]1442011[/snapback]</div>

I sprayed a base coat of silver under my primary paint color, and then sanded/chipped the paint off in the area's I wanted "metal" too show through. Combine that with a steady hand and some chrome paint, and the results come out fairly nice for a "chipped paint" look around the sharp edges. After this is done, I will airbrush more weathering in certain area's to age the base coat of paint as well.
Cam
[/b]

What silver base coat did you use? wHAT cHROME PAINT DID YOU USE?

Thanks

FB

 

[tk8456]

For the flat surface idea....There will be the be first silver under layer showing yeah. Just add darker shades as you go.
The cloth works for me anyway. Trick is to not to put any swirls on there, just straight movements.

Thinking about it, a tacky layer with brush marks showing might give it a brushed look. I haven't tried that though. Should work if your steady enough?

That weathering I've applied above is meant to be a blaster type mark, hence the leather border being spolied too

 

[SKS_STUDIOS]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Mar 20 2007, 11:35 AM) [snapback]1444087[/snapback]</div>

What silver base coat did you use? wHAT cHROME PAINT DID YOU USE?

Thanks

FB
[/b]

Krylon silver for the base coat that was fully cured and then buffed smooth. For the chrome paint I used Duplicolor's chrome automotive paint.


Cam

 

[franz bolo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Howard @ Mar 18 2007, 02:02 PM) [snapback]1442752[/snapback]</div>

I use Humbrol Metal cote - mainly the 'polished steel,' but it comes in other finishes. It's around £1 a tin.
On a small area you can brush it on, but for larger areas it's best to use an airbrush.
It dries very quickly and can be rubbed with a cloth to produce a metal sheen. Once this is done I use any silver paint, drybrushed on raised areas.
[/b]

Why would you drybrush over the metal sheen surface?

FB

 

[Howard]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Mar 21 2007, 01:34 PM) [snapback]1444734[/snapback]</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Howard @ Mar 18 2007, 02:02 PM) [snapback]1442752[/snapback]

I use Humbrol Metal cote - mainly the 'polished steel,' but it comes in other finishes. It's around £1 a tin.
On a small area you can brush it on, but for larger areas it's best to use an airbrush.
It dries very quickly and can be rubbed with a cloth to produce a metal sheen. Once this is done I use any silver paint, drybrushed on raised areas.
[/b]

Why would you drybrush over the metal sheen surface?

FB
[/b][/quote]

Hi FB.

The polished steel give a darker surface shine - not an ultra bright silver shine. The drybrushing gives a worn look on the raised edges which is brighter, like newly exposed metal.
If I get time over the weekend, I'll find a spare piece of plastic, paint it up and post it.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

Over the weekend I got my butt in gear and finally finished up my Mal and Jayne pistols from Firefly. Both were painted (fairly quickly) with the method I described above. Mal's (yes, I know it should be blacker) is resin (with woods grips) and Jaynes is all metal, with the real metal showing through the smoke/transparent black paint that has been rubbed/wiped off.