use another torch to heat up your torch tip! use a SLIGHTLY damp rag or Q-tip to wipe away the solder from any orifices ,and remove your torch from the propane tank before heating it up (I know, you know better, but I had to say it)be careful how much you heat it up, some torch parts are brazed together and too much heat will make a mess of it
also, hold it upside down so gravity will keep the solder from getting in even further
use a soggy toothpick in the air passage holes to clean up the bores and to steam away any solder clinging to the surface, just don't get your face too close if the solder "pops" you will risk eye and kisser damage
rubbing molten solder that is bonded to metal with wood seems to help break its adhesion ,maybe its the heat causing the sap resin in the wood to coat the base metal.... all i know is that its a bear getting the solder to re-adhere without sanding and re-fluxing...might come in handy for budget shielding (shielding sprays and brush-ons are sold for that specific purpose, to prevent solder from sticking where you don't want it)
also, hold it upside down so gravity will keep the solder from getting in even further
use a soggy toothpick in the air passage holes to clean up the bores and to steam away any solder clinging to the surface, just don't get your face too close if the solder "pops" you will risk eye and kisser damage
rubbing molten solder that is bonded to metal with wood seems to help break its adhesion ,maybe its the heat causing the sap resin in the wood to coat the base metal.... all i know is that its a bear getting the solder to re-adhere without sanding and re-fluxing...might come in handy for budget shielding (shielding sprays and brush-ons are sold for that specific purpose, to prevent solder from sticking where you don't want it)