Luke's ANH replica lightsaber build advice needed
- Thread starter pfillery
- Start date
Thats great you found metal track to use! JUst something else to add to the mystery origin of the saber grips.
Well it turns out I'm very lucky indeed with the t-track Sym-Cha.
Firstly, the small nail holes can be filled with silver solder so don't present a problem.
Secondly, I will be able to get 7 grips per length without going near the holes so have enough for 2 sabers but will only need one. Now to think about what I want/need and trade with it.
Firstly, the small nail holes can be filled with silver solder so don't present a problem.
Secondly, I will be able to get 7 grips per length without going near the holes so have enough for 2 sabers but will only need one. Now to think about what I want/need and trade with it.
And I happened to be looking in my bookshelf yesterday and lo and behold what do I find but a copy of the Star Wars visual dictionary from the original trilogy. I've had it since I was a teenager and didn't think it was still there. Great diagrams explaining the "workings" of the lightsabers.
Incidentally also came across my copy of the star Trek motion picture sticker book with all stickers intact. Funny what turns up when you least expect it.
I'll post some progress pics as I go, started gathering the good old found objects including a couple of PC heatsinks with solid turned copper cores which i think will come in very handy indeed.
Incidentally also came across my copy of the star Trek motion picture sticker book with all stickers intact. Funny what turns up when you least expect it.
I'll post some progress pics as I go, started gathering the good old found objects including a couple of PC heatsinks with solid turned copper cores which i think will come in very handy indeed.
Sym-Cha
Master Member
Hi pfillery,
Always nice to use a found item on your lightsaber props. Have you tried trimming at an angle at the ends for Luke's ANH yet? Will there be an inside seam visible?
[Voice of Yoda] 'You need another red button, don't you ... hm? :lol Perhaps I can provide you with the funds for #5 : http://www.therpf.com/f13/final-reduction-graflex-parts-real-graflex-replicas-139363/ An offer you should make, hm? Trade funds for T-track, yes I will!'
-Chaim
Always nice to use a found item on your lightsaber props. Have you tried trimming at an angle at the ends for Luke's ANH yet? Will there be an inside seam visible?
[Voice of Yoda] 'You need another red button, don't you ... hm? :lol Perhaps I can provide you with the funds for #5 : http://www.therpf.com/f13/final-reduction-graflex-parts-real-graflex-replicas-139363/ An offer you should make, hm? Trade funds for T-track, yes I will!'
-Chaim
I agree up to a point, however it would also depend on what was readily available at the time too. The track being metal, therefore hard to glue down when painted, may have been the reason they screwed down the ESB grips. It wouldn't take a prop maker long to drill and file some grips down. As also stated they may have used these as the basis for a resin cast. As far as I'm concerned, nothing like working with metal.
Sym-Cha,
Haven't started cutting yet but a quick test filing of the end there is virtually no seam showing, what little does show would fill with little or no effort before painting. I have to try and find out by looking at the pictures what the ends are like, they appear to be rounded off. Will make a jig to cut them all the same I think.
Found parts are really the only way to go, I don't think you want stuff that can be easilly attributed to a particular item either (ie change it just enough and use a wide assortment of bits that don't belong together normally) Just found an old stainless steel saucepan lid which is the right thickness to make the body part of the d-ring as shown in the other tutorial. Then time for a trip to the scrap yard to see what else I can come up with.
You could PM me regarding the other track piece, I can work out what it would cost to send.
Haven't started cutting yet but a quick test filing of the end there is virtually no seam showing, what little does show would fill with little or no effort before painting. I have to try and find out by looking at the pictures what the ends are like, they appear to be rounded off. Will make a jig to cut them all the same I think.
Found parts are really the only way to go, I don't think you want stuff that can be easilly attributed to a particular item either (ie change it just enough and use a wide assortment of bits that don't belong together normally) Just found an old stainless steel saucepan lid which is the right thickness to make the body part of the d-ring as shown in the other tutorial. Then time for a trip to the scrap yard to see what else I can come up with.
You could PM me regarding the other track piece, I can work out what it would cost to send.
Sym-Cha
Master Member
PM send. Did you see Thegreatgalling's extensive thread with pictures about his graflex ANH? http://www.therpf.com/f9/vintage-graflex-anh-luke-saber-too-many-107870/ He's got some nice pictures of Gino's
plastic T-track cut and lightly filed.
-Chaim
plastic T-track cut and lightly filed.
-Chaim
Furiousplankton
New Member
i found these the other day in the UK
the second product down. they are very cheap and come in 2m lenghts. and they are almost exactly the same dimensions as the reproduction tracks that i have seen elswhere
whats more they are the modern equivalent and replacement for what was origionally sourced as metal wardrobe tracking.
http://www.doorstuff.co.uk/slidingdoor/BK-full-length-bottom-guide.php
i will post images when i have perminantly stuck them in place.
P.S. they are made of ABS and were very easy to shape and round for my ANH with a piece of 400 wet and dry
the second product down. they are very cheap and come in 2m lenghts. and they are almost exactly the same dimensions as the reproduction tracks that i have seen elswhere
whats more they are the modern equivalent and replacement for what was origionally sourced as metal wardrobe tracking.
http://www.doorstuff.co.uk/slidingdoor/BK-full-length-bottom-guide.php
i will post images when i have perminantly stuck them in place.
P.S. they are made of ABS and were very easy to shape and round for my ANH with a piece of 400 wet and dry
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