Lost in Trek's TOS Replica Collection

Gregatron:

I jumped the gun on your disk ejector—does the nub pull the center plate out along with the disk?

And, a very elegant solution to your tap issue. The simplest things...

Best. Mike.

No. I carved a channel into the center plate and installed a hook-shaped mechanism, which pushes the disc out as the end with the nub is pulled forward. The center plate stays fixed in place.
 
In addition to the doors, I also added them to the hood, because the friction fit isn’t great (which was my fault). The magnets aren’t strong enough to shap them in place, but the encourage the hood to stay open or closed when rotated into either position. And, with a tiny bit of flexing, the hood can also pass the crossbar, and rotated a full 180 degrees, as seen in certain episodes.
Thanks, obviously you've done it the right way. My first Marco had to rely on bits of black duct tape as friction points. I hope to do better in the future, possibly with magnets. Best. Mike.
 
Here are some pictures of how I installed the magnets in the hood of my original build. They are powerful enough to open and close it with a snap feel. I also imbedded tiny magnets in the back panel and rear cross bar. I didn't care that it wasn't screen accurate I just hated that unsightly screw. I think gives the rear of the tricorder a much cleaner look. This decision has caused me years of gentle teasing from my fellow prop buddies. I'm looking at you LIT.
 

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Here are some pictures of how I installed the magnets in the hood of my original build. They are powerful enough to open and close it with a snap feel. I also imbedded tiny magnets in the back panel and rear cross bar. I didn't care that it wasn't screen accurate I just hated that unsightly screw. I think gives the rear of the tricorder a much cleaner look. This decision has caused me years of gentle teasing from my fellow prop buddies. I'm looking at you LIT.
What a grand-looking trifunction recorder you have going on there,
JFB64. I'm totally tickled every time I see a faceplate that so closely apes WMC's. I've been irretrievably canalized by my early exposure to TMOST's photo of the Wah-A. Alas, using the Braun faceplate, while the components are all period-correct, the required functioning display screen requires a slight change in geometry.


Do you know the magnet specs right off the top of your head? If not, I can approximate the metrics and power ratings from your wonderfully-helpful photos. Unless made of rare earths, I expect that I'll be able to source them without too much difficulty or a trip to exotic environs.

Now you have me rethinking the back panel top screw. I hadn't considered making the rear panel openable, but now you also have me giving that a rethink.

I'm hoping that the rather quixotic nature of the John Marco kit will allow for any of your suggested additions.

Thanx for your kind and generous attention.

Best. Mike.
 

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Here are some pictures of how I installed the magnets in the hood of my original build. They are powerful enough to open and close it with a snap feel. I also imbedded tiny magnets in the back panel and rear cross bar. I didn't care that it wasn't screen accurate I just hated that unsightly screw. I think gives the rear of the tricorder a much cleaner look. This decision has caused me years of gentle teasing from my fellow prop buddies. I'm looking at you LIT.
Hey Joe, aren't you missing a screw on the back
 
I bought the magnets from kjmagnetics.com. They were 1/2" diameter by 1/8" thick. I don't remember how strong they are but probably the strongest in that size.

And yes I am missing a screw, several in fact. The few I do have remaining are loose also.
 
I bought the magnets from kjmagnetics.com. They were 1/2" diameter by 1/8" thick. I don't remember how strong they are but probably the strongest in that size.

And yes I am missing a screw, several in fact. The few I do have remaining are loose also.
Thanx for the valuable intel - back to the drawing boards. Best. Mike.
 

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