Lighters to collect that were used in movies

[VonMagnum]

I can see why the Fight Club lighter is a popular shape. It's perhaps not the best one to display in my China cabinet when company comes over, however.

Yeah, the Midland Spark lighter is a pretty neat (different) lighter, but a rather pricey one too and even modified, you'll need batteries to operate it. It'd be neat to own, but $2k is a lot for one lighter, IMO and it's the only one I've seen for sale thus far. It seems quite a number of different spark lighters were made similar to it (found a trove of YouTube videos). Of course, it still needs a fuel (manual says gasoline...yeah no thanks. I'd try lighter fluid). The manual also says it has asbestos fiber in it (won't wear out and never needs replaced). Great for the lungs when inhaled too.

 

[VonMagnum]

I picked up a fresh stick of JBWeld SteelStik putty today. I plan to use it to fill the two dents on the Rondette table lighter and sand it smooth before primer+painting.

 

[VonMagnum]

Taped up and steel stick added (dry and sand next). Not sure about this steel stick fix. Not sure about any of it, really....

This rough sketch doesn't instill confidence

Yeah, phone paint sucks

Wow! Faerie Squirrel Majiks!

 

[VonMagnum]

Sanded filler flat. Ready for glue trace.

 

[VonMagnum]

I've got my doubts....Exacto™ knife on standby.

 

[joberg]

Yep...I don't know if that's going to work. Cloisonné techniques are numerous on YouTube. Cooper would be my choice for that design.
Good luck

 

[TymanRoach]

I feel like getting simple custom stencil made up couldn't be that expensive..

 

[VonMagnum]

Given I literally know nothing about getting custom stencils made up, nor I have I used a single stencil my entire life, expense is actually the least of the problems. Stencils don't make themselves. Even if I printed something made with a computer, the traces need cut precisely and smoothly.

I'm sure someone somewhere has a way to do that, but good luck to me finding them. I'd have an easier time finding someone with a steadier hand to trace the design still visible on the lighter. Then there's the question of spraying over/through the stencil. It cannot move. It cannot leak.

How do I secure the stencil while I paint through it without taping it? Keep in mind it's a reverse stencil. Everything is being sprayed except for the glue bits so I cannot tape anywhere. This why I thought tracing the existing pattern with glue might solve all those issues. It's not quite as visible or easy to get Elmer's not to move/pool as I thought, however.

Hell, my model rocket spray painting experiences are the last time I spray painted so I don't expect even that to go right.

This is an experiment as much as anything else. But for some reason I'm questioning for the first time why I'm putting pictures of it on the internet for some reason.

 

[Astyanax]

DM incoming.

 

[VonMagnum]

Filled bits are still slightly visible to the eye. I'll see how bad the lines are after it dries and see if I can straighten them out with a toothpick or Exacto knife before a clear coat. I've got a black paint pen and even ink if necessary.

About 10 light coats each side.

3 dot specs where paint didn't seem to stick on front too. Back looks good.

 

[Lightning]

I'm sure someone somewhere has a way to do that, but good luck to me finding them. I'd have an easier time finding someone with a steadier hand to trace the design still visible on the lighter. Then there's the question of spraying over/through the stencil. It cannot move. It cannot leak.

the correct tool for this is a computerized vinyl cutter. you could probably hire someone on etsy to make you a reverse stencil with proper measurements and a picture of the original pattern.

 

[VonMagnum]

the correct tool for this is a computerized vinyl cutter. you could probably hire someone on etsy to make you a reverse stencil with proper measurements and a picture of the original pattern.

Yeah, thanks for making me feel better, good buddy. When this was made in the 1930s, I'm pretty sure they didn't have such tools, but even so I've had one really nice offer on here already to do exactly that from Astyanax, but it's still a delay when I set aside time these days off to give it a try and I'd kind of like to see what I can do first.

That's why I thought it was a fun hobby that I picked up during Covid lockdowns (as well as prop recreation collecting in general) rather than a professional side business.

Now if it's a travesty, I'll clean the paint off one side and start over, perhaps with the stencil mentioned. Oddly, I thought tracing what's left of the original pattern made sense at the time.

I also didn't have it professionally polished so all the surface scratches were removed first, either. It's obviously not going to be confused for one in NIB condition either.

I suppose I could have just spent $300-500 for one in better condition, for that matter (instead of $72), but I thought it might be an interesting experience given these are a relative rarity, which is why they fetch so much.

Clearly, however, judgment has already been made on here.

 

[VonMagnum]

It's actually not terrible looking after a little toothpick straightening of edges, but the thinner lines (bottom in particular) are too thick to match the original art. I've gone ahead and clear coated it to see how the final look is before wiping the front off. It almost looks more Japanese character-like than Art Deco at a glance.

 

[WayneTech]

Just picked one of these up from GBFans:

Manhattan Adventurers Society, Zippo Lighter from Ghostbusters Frozen Empire.

Manhattan Adventurers Society Zippo Lighter

Are you the Firemaster or are you just a fan of debauchery and Beaujolais? Either way you're gonna want to light the candle with this genuine brass Zippo lighter adorned with the Manhattan Adventurers Society logo. The logo has been skillfully laser etched with intense heat to give a dark and...

www.gbfans.com

 

[VonMagnum]

With a little touch up after removing tape.

Rondette Table Lighter (1934)

 

[Jintosh]

With a little touch up after removing tape.

Rondette Table Lighter (1934)


View attachment 1872542

Not to be rude, but it reminds me of the Punisher logo.

 

[joberg]

I think that you could've achieve the design by applying aluminium tape on top of the painted lighter and, with a cutter, cut the different lines and curves.

 

[VonMagnum]

Not to be rude, but it reminds me of the Punisher logo.

Yeah, this lighter predates it by about 50 years.

The real question is whether to leave it personalized hobby like or redo it more professionally with a computer stencil. I even thought about filling in the metal bits with a different color to make it more unique like with the blue and purple metal leather on the Banjo Table Lighter. Blood red could be sweet like it's bleeding. "V" the Mini-Series comes to mind. The aliens have their own symbolic character set.

 

[VonMagnum]

I've got a never used before (tag still on it) mint Ronson Regal Version 1 coming. It took me forever to find one period. This one looks brand new.

I paid a bit more than book value, but those books aren't very accurate for rarity, IMO. For example, I've got 3 of the same model lighter (Savoy) of the extremely rare category (could have had 5!), but this one (only "very rare") is nigh impossible to find.

The Rondette Table Lighter above is under "very rare". They're rare enough to actually sell for $300-600 in very good original condition (book says $150).

 

[VonMagnum]

I found a Rondette Table lighter for sale with original graphics intact (some paint missing, particularly on the back). Unfortunately, it has someone's initials engraved on it. There's really nothing you can do about that except on sterling silver items and even then it can flatten the surface. It's supposed to be $150 in book for excellent condition (2009 prices). Initials kill value. Missing paint should be worse. He wants $250 for it.

Suddenly, my repaint feels a bit better at $73 plus paint.