Let's Build a TIE Bomber!
- Thread starter Boxcar Bret
- Start date
May 30, 2024
Another thing I've learned in my short time doing scratch building is that it's a lot working on a house. Waiting for electrical? Go work on plumbing. Waiting for your scribing tool? Go work on those Harrier seat rails.
This is one of those parts that come from a $150.00 kit and you need two. I was crazy lucky and was able to get one at a swap at a swap meet for $50.00. (See exhibit A below)
With that said, this was my motivation to learn how to cast resin parts so I did.
(Text and photos unavailable)
With the original in a safe undisclosed location I began by gluing the part to a piece of 2mm(?) styrene. You have to build up the underside so that you can sand it back to match the curve of the body tubes.
I trimmed back the excess with a knife before doing the shaping with a sanding stick. When I was building scale armor models I rarely used a grit below 400. The thought of using 100 was mortifying and unheard of. Now I rarely venture above 400. Hey, I ain't got all day.
There were a couple of voids that needed to be addressed and they were with some Bondo. A little more sanding, a little shaping and a little clean up and I had some good results.
By wrapping a piece of sandpaper around the tube I used the armature itself as a guide ensuring a perfect-ish fit.
It was time to bring the MVP into the game once again, this time by wrapping it in sandpaper and using it for a guide. For those interested, I used 150 grit for these parts
This took some work but I was very pleased with the results.
After gluing some more parts and greeblies on I treated myself to doing a dry fit of the subassemblies. It’s easy to get worn down during a build and the scribing mishap did a number on me. Seeing a glimpse of the project closer to completion is inspiring and motivating.
Another thing I've learned in my short time doing scratch building is that it's a lot working on a house. Waiting for electrical? Go work on plumbing. Waiting for your scribing tool? Go work on those Harrier seat rails.
This is one of those parts that come from a $150.00 kit and you need two. I was crazy lucky and was able to get one at a swap at a swap meet for $50.00. (See exhibit A below)
With that said, this was my motivation to learn how to cast resin parts so I did.
(Text and photos unavailable)
With the original in a safe undisclosed location I began by gluing the part to a piece of 2mm(?) styrene. You have to build up the underside so that you can sand it back to match the curve of the body tubes.
I trimmed back the excess with a knife before doing the shaping with a sanding stick. When I was building scale armor models I rarely used a grit below 400. The thought of using 100 was mortifying and unheard of. Now I rarely venture above 400. Hey, I ain't got all day.
There were a couple of voids that needed to be addressed and they were with some Bondo. A little more sanding, a little shaping and a little clean up and I had some good results.
By wrapping a piece of sandpaper around the tube I used the armature itself as a guide ensuring a perfect-ish fit.
It was time to bring the MVP into the game once again, this time by wrapping it in sandpaper and using it for a guide. For those interested, I used 150 grit for these parts
This took some work but I was very pleased with the results.
After gluing some more parts and greeblies on I treated myself to doing a dry fit of the subassemblies. It’s easy to get worn down during a build and the scribing mishap did a number on me. Seeing a glimpse of the project closer to completion is inspiring and motivating.
Nice work Bret. I was wondering what the process was on those pieces. Your explanation makes it seem simple although i am sure it will have its challenges.
Looking at the parts map over at X2creativos what are the other details on the side view of this part?
Looking at the parts map over at X2creativos what are the other details on the side view of this part?
That’s the one. I didn’t know either until someone here pointed it out to me.
And don’t think for a minute I’m not over thinking it. HB or #2? Micro bit or Xacto tip?
Haha. I get it.
Mechanical pencil, not sure what hardness that is. I actually used a rapidograph. Which I think is a little too dark. And micro drill bit with a pin vise.
joberg
Legendary Member
For scribing lines I use a variety of "tricks": the run-of-the-mill metal ruler or Dymo tape and my trusted Gerry-rigged scribing tool
As for micro-holes, I've been known to use a Dremel and a dress maker's pin or a sewing machine's
For scribing lines I use a variety of "tricks": the run-of-the-mill metal ruler or Dymo tape and my trusted Gerry-rigged scribing tool
As for micro-holes, I've been known to use a Dremel and a dress maker's pin or a sewing machine's
Thank you Joberg. I asked that question poorly and i apologize. What i meant to ask is what reference photo's are the best for laying out the scribe lines on the TB body. I presume the best method is to get some of the main detail parts on the body to act as key reference points and from there sketch out the lines to scribe. I hope that made sense.
June 9, 2024
New tool, new technique and the advice from those that have gone before me. The scribing is finished. Is it perfect? No. Is it really rough in spots? Oh yeah. Is it as good as I'd like it? Not really, but I'm happy with it being my first attempt and I now have figured out a technique that works for me that will yield positive results next time.
Like I said in an earlier posting, I really wrecked havoc on the tubes on my first attempt. I did the best I could filling in the lines/gouges I had previously made with Bondo. I'm by far not not proclaiming myself an overnight expert but this is what I discovered worked for me.
I had posted some pics over on the Nerf Herder' Workshop Facebook group and Lee Ralph was kind enough to shoot me a short video showing the tool he used and some useful pointers.
He recommended the Tamiya Engraver Tool and I have to say, combined with other things, it changed my game. I think there's a name for those kind of things. The blades and handle are sold separately and will set you back about $50.00 but it was totally worth it.
This time around rather than drawing pencil lines and going off them I took a different approach. I used a combination of parts maps and existing parts glued in place for reference. Once I determined the line I was going to scribe I used Dymo tape as guide from point A to point B.
Regarding my new scribing technique, the first thing I changed up was how I held the blade. Rather than gripping the handle like a pencil I rested it in my hand with my index at the blade tip to apply and control the pressure at the tip. My middle finger acts as a support and guide as the blade is pulled back, very much like someone doing pin striping.
Second, I kept the blade at 90 degrees to the surface at all times. This along with keeping the handle parallel to the Dymo tape made for a uniform line and prevented the corner edge of the blade tip from either wanting to wander or gouge the surface. I noticed that the couple times that the blade strayed it was because I wasn't doing one of those two things.
Finally, like has been said many times before, several light passes works! I know, I know, you tried to tell me but I get it now. My new knife and technique of holding it really allows me to feel what "light" really means. My old Tamiya panel line scriber is like using a linoleum knife.
The only rough going really came from the spots I had filled in with Bondo. The were soft and the filler would sometimes either chip or yield a wider line.
The position of some parts needed to be figured out for the lines and that included the bomb pod.
With the bomb pod in place I cut loose and glued on the remaining greeblies and chips.
Like I said at the beginning it's looking rough. It's got a lot of "bruising" right now from Bondo and sanding but I'm confident that once I hit it with some filler primer it will look a lot better.
I'm still new to the world of studio scale models and there are a lot of things where I'm waiting for my skills to catch up with my talent. It's been a journey but I feel I'm at the halfway mark.
New tool, new technique and the advice from those that have gone before me. The scribing is finished. Is it perfect? No. Is it really rough in spots? Oh yeah. Is it as good as I'd like it? Not really, but I'm happy with it being my first attempt and I now have figured out a technique that works for me that will yield positive results next time.
Like I said in an earlier posting, I really wrecked havoc on the tubes on my first attempt. I did the best I could filling in the lines/gouges I had previously made with Bondo. I'm by far not not proclaiming myself an overnight expert but this is what I discovered worked for me.
I had posted some pics over on the Nerf Herder' Workshop Facebook group and Lee Ralph was kind enough to shoot me a short video showing the tool he used and some useful pointers.
He recommended the Tamiya Engraver Tool and I have to say, combined with other things, it changed my game. I think there's a name for those kind of things. The blades and handle are sold separately and will set you back about $50.00 but it was totally worth it.
This time around rather than drawing pencil lines and going off them I took a different approach. I used a combination of parts maps and existing parts glued in place for reference. Once I determined the line I was going to scribe I used Dymo tape as guide from point A to point B.
Regarding my new scribing technique, the first thing I changed up was how I held the blade. Rather than gripping the handle like a pencil I rested it in my hand with my index at the blade tip to apply and control the pressure at the tip. My middle finger acts as a support and guide as the blade is pulled back, very much like someone doing pin striping.
Second, I kept the blade at 90 degrees to the surface at all times. This along with keeping the handle parallel to the Dymo tape made for a uniform line and prevented the corner edge of the blade tip from either wanting to wander or gouge the surface. I noticed that the couple times that the blade strayed it was because I wasn't doing one of those two things.
Finally, like has been said many times before, several light passes works! I know, I know, you tried to tell me but I get it now. My new knife and technique of holding it really allows me to feel what "light" really means. My old Tamiya panel line scriber is like using a linoleum knife.
The only rough going really came from the spots I had filled in with Bondo. The were soft and the filler would sometimes either chip or yield a wider line.
The position of some parts needed to be figured out for the lines and that included the bomb pod.
With the bomb pod in place I cut loose and glued on the remaining greeblies and chips.
Like I said at the beginning it's looking rough. It's got a lot of "bruising" right now from Bondo and sanding but I'm confident that once I hit it with some filler primer it will look a lot better.
I'm still new to the world of studio scale models and there are a lot of things where I'm waiting for my skills to catch up with my talent. It's been a journey but I feel I'm at the halfway mark.
chazzychaz
Sr Member
I am inspired to build one. Where are the part maps found please.
Last edited:
Thread 'Tie bomber: Complete plans and parts id.' Tie bomber: Complete plans and parts id.
chazzychaz
Sr Member
Much appreciated.
