JOATRASH FX Mando blaster build

tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Ever since teaser photos and videos of The Mandalorian were released, I knew I had to build this blaster. Loads of 3D files and kits popped up even before the series premiered but I decided to wait for accurate kits/files to emerge. When JOATRASH FX announced he was working on his kit, I jumped in blindfolded and hands tied behind my back. His attention to accuracies and details is well known so I know this blaster is going to be kickass! And boy he sure didn't disappoint. Here's his run thread in case you're interested LINK
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I got walnut grips from justinrowan that were crafted exclusively for this kit.
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To replicate the patina on a well-used steel gun, I sanded the gun frames to a smooth finish, concluding by wetsanding with 2000 grit paper. They are spray painted gloss black and let dry for 24 hours. I rubbed graphite powder thoroughly onto them and dabbed heavily thinned flat black acrylic ( I used AK Interactive) over with a soaked cotton ball. The graphite powder somewhat repels the paint, resulting in a faux patina effect that I like. Again, I let this dry for at least 24 hours. No clear or top coat is required.
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Other modifications I made to the kit; used leather craft rivets for the pins on the gun frame
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Real hex nut for the hammer strike
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Fabricated the rod holder out of brass sheet.
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Flame-blued M6 slotted cheesehead screw for the plunger retainer
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Thank you very much guys!



Hey thanks Sean. I actually shared my process in my first post. Let me know if you have other questions after that :)

I hope you don't mind but I'm 100% going to leverage some of your painting technique for the patina on my blaster - I've been working on my own design slowly and I'd love to even come close to your metal-work skill!
 
I hope you don't mind but I'm 100% going to leverage some of your painting technique for the patina on my blaster - I've been working on my own design slowly and I'd love to even come close to your metal-work skill!

Of course I don't mind. Please share your results!
 
If you buff the graphite on while the paint is still not fully cured (less than 24 hours in my experience) you typically don't need to protect the graphite. When it stops rubbing off you're done buffing. :)
 
It's been two years and the graphite is still holding strong without any clear coat!
I am pretty sure that the graphite 'cuts' into the clear coat and embeds itself, and that's why it's so durable. I love graphite for these old-patina blasters. One thing I usually to is wet-buff the graphite after an initial dry-buff. Seems the water buffing gives it just a tad more shine.

This is still an amazing buildup. I've been taking kind of a break from modeling up props... just finishing the odd project that's been lying around half-finished... and now that I saw this again it kinds reminded me of why I got into the hobby in the first place. (And also that I need to get my butt in gear and finish my own build!

A few months ago, I had a disaster when building mine. I was going to fill the empty cavities with liquid resin, but there was a leak somewhere and the resin went everywhere. I had to quickly drop the entire blaster in acetone before the resin set... then repaint the whole thing. Since then, it's just been sitting in a box.

But seriously... damn... that finish is so simple and looks so good!
 
Thank you for your kind words Joe. The experience of building this kit was nothing short of absolute bliss. Every part fits perfectly with each other and the segmentations simply made sense.

I'm sorry to hear about your mishap, but I'm certain your build will be glorious when you get back to completing it.
 

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