bump. for servo??
Simple smooth that is a nice setup. From the video I thought you had servos in it...
Check out my attempt at Ironman MK4 http://www.therpf.com/f24/ironman-mk-4-first-attempt-foam-build-158310/
Bump for a servo?... Maybe?! Regardless this is a very useful thread!
Mockle. Great thread you started here. It frustrated me to no end when I'd follow someone's thread as they built the helmet and then wouldn't share the hinge set up. My helmet is done except for the electronics and I've been banging my head attempting to locate picot points that give me enough clearance so the back of the faceplate clears the top of the helm and the upper lip clears the area that sticks out near the jaw. Thanks for getting this going. Will help a lot!
yes it is tiny.
So I talked to Smooth-on and found a yet better material. So I orded it got it in today and as far is even stronger then the resin 320.. nothing wrong with the 320. just looking whats out there. So I did a cast. but takes hours to set.... so I will update after its all set and ready.....
So is this what you're making the hinges out of?
Still working my hinges. Wondering what kind of screws you used for the hinges and how you attached them to your helmet. I have templates I've been taping to the faceplate and jaw to see if my action is right, but the nuts on my screws keep loosening. I imagine the same thing will happen when it's installed. I have some binding posts I thought I might try, but I'm wondering if I need to find some that are a bit longer and with a smaller diameter. The ones I have right now are are 3/16" X 1/4".
used 1/4" Chicago screws inside 1/2" on the lower face plate...
drilled the spot used a automotive silicone the used resin to seal sand smooth if needed..:thumbsup
One trick I did with the hinges in my helmet was to get a piece of threaded rod the same pitch as the Chicago screws, and cut it to length so it was about 5/8" shorter than the width of the inside of the helmet. Once you figure out the correct mounting position, put the receiving end of the Chicago screws on the rod and adjust them so the rod fits snugly against the helmet wall and epoxy it in place. This way the mounting points stay parallel, and the hinge works smoothly. The rod diameter isn't very big, so cutting it in a couple places with a pair of cutters to unscrew the rod from the mounted screw ends is easy.