Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

good luck!

read everything in here....

(then read it again!) haha

make sure you regulate the power to your servos (so you dont ruin them)..and not power them from your Arduino..
same for the led(s) (regulate the voltage/current for them).. depending on your end set-up..
connect 'ground' from Arduino and battery pack and servo's
 
Ok have just tried that set up but the servos still don't respond? The LEDs work fine as they should but absolutely nothing from the servos :/ will it have anything to do with what servo I'm using?

Maybe its because they are dead... you hooked up 9V directly to a 4.8V servo, buy new ones and use a Voltage regulator next time.

xl97

I looked to the picture and i stopped in the 1st wrong thing i saw, lol, i just saw the guy connected the servos directly to a 9V batt
 
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good luck!

read everything in here....

(then read it again!) haha

make sure you regulate the power to your servos (so you dont ruin them)..and not power them from your Arduino..
same for the led(s) (regulate the voltage/current for them).. depending on your end set-up..
connect 'ground' from Arduino and battery pack and servo's

Thanks xl97
actually i read all the page 1 by 1... lol

im going to use this for evaluation.
IMG_1775.JPG
 
Is that a step down Vreg board, 5.2~17V input to 5.2V output?

you don't need that to the final assemble a Vreg chip would do the job for you.
 
Is that a step down Vreg board, 5.2~17V input to 5.2V output?

you don't need that to the final assemble a Vreg chip would do the job for you.

thanks memebr

currently, now im able to run using the code on the first page.
 

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Hey guys. Is there a lipo battery that puts out just as much voltage and current as 4 AA batteries? How much current should I really need using two servos (HS-82MG) ? Is 8000 mAh really needed? Trying to still get the power I need but at the same to use a smaller battery. LEDs don't use hardly any current correct. Just about 3 volts? ( thinking of using SMD LEDs.
 
the leds you choose/use will tell you want they want/need...

anywhere from 2.0-3.3+ voltages.. doesnt matter SMD or not.. and color depends too..


Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries usually come in +3.7v packs.. and depending on size, bigger mAh


however +3.7v is NOT enough to run your servos is it?

and 8000mAh is fine.. will give your projects longer run time....

cant tell you how much current is exactly needed.. check your set-up to see how much current is being pulled when your servo(s) are under load, with led on...etc..

"I" use +7.4v packs (usually).. depending on the space I have.. I get the correct size batteries that will work and fit.
make sure to regulate that source for each component to its specs..

(ie: servos at +5v, leds at whatever their vF is)
 
the leds you choose/use will tell you want they want/need...

anywhere from 2.0-3.3+ voltages.. doesnt matter SMD or not.. and color depends too..


Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries usually come in +3.7v packs.. and depending on size, bigger mAh


however +3.7v is NOT enough to run your servos is it?

and 8000mAh is fine.. will give your projects longer run time....

cant tell you how much current is exactly needed.. check your set-up to see how much current is being pulled when your servo(s) are under load, with led on...etc..

"I" use +7.4v packs (usually).. depending on the space I have.. I get the correct size batteries that will work and fit.
make sure to regulate that source for each component to its specs..

(ie: servos at +5v, leds at whatever their vF is)

I would have to have two different regulator boards? One for servo and one for LEDs? The pro mini has a internal regulator so it will drop the volts down on its own. Trying to make smallest package possible. Resistors are to lower ohm ( current) not voltage?
 
Well it really all depends on your actual FINAL set-up..

all these people using 1 led in their tests either:

a.) are gonna have to change their set-ups
or
b.) gonna be disappointed in brightness


so you really need to think (on paper) what it is you want to do/use..

cant give you advice on things that are going to change or not work in the end...


but more or less you are correct..

you'll have to get a voltage regulator (maybe 7805 or variant).... directly off the battery pack (not arduino) before you connect it to the servo's..
(makes sense right?.. servo wants 5v.. you have a 7.4v pack... not gonna work, you'll blow them unless you regulate it down to +5v)

for the leds.. you can use a resistor (for EACH LED).. or design so you have 2 in serial in your total array of leds..

this will drop the voltage & current down to what you need (based on the value of the resistor)

however dropping too much means you'll burn excess power as HEAT.. which is NOT good..

so plan accordingly.. design so you dont have that much of a cut/drop in voltage..
or use a +3.3v voltage regulator to feed/power the leds (along with a TRANSISTOR!!!!!!)
 
Was wondering if someone can post a diagram with the li-on battery with all resistors and regulators in place?? That helps alot!!!!!
Just as a working example...
 
Well it really all depends on your actual FINAL set-up..

all these people using 1 led in their tests either:

a.) are gonna have to change their set-ups
or
b.) gonna be disappointed in brightness


so you really need to think (on paper) what it is you want to do/use..

cant give you advice on things that are going to change or not work in the end...


but more or less you are correct..

you'll have to get a voltage regulator (maybe 7805 or variant).... directly off the battery pack (not arduino) before you connect it to the servo's..
(makes sense right?.. servo wants 5v.. you have a 7.4v pack... not gonna work, you'll blow them unless you regulate it down to +5v)

for the leds.. you can use a resistor (for EACH LED).. or design so you have 2 in serial in your total array of leds..

this will drop the voltage & current down to what you need (based on the value of the resistor)

however dropping too much means you'll burn excess power as HEAT.. which is NOT good..

so plan accordingly.. design so you dont have that much of a cut/drop in voltage..
or use a +3.3v voltage regulator to feed/power the leds (along with a TRANSISTOR!!!!!!)

Correct. I plan to use 8 LEDS (4 per eye..I think that should be enough) of Bright white w/ a hint of blue (6000k spec is what I'm looking for)

Servos are 6 volts to give most tq. I rather have the addition tq up front and use the code to slow them down/speed them up.

Board can drop the voltage down it self to 5 volts

LEDS I plan hooking up in a serials so I would need a 2 resistors where they would be place at the end of array...power leds resistor ground.

I understand that I have to lower the voltage but I did not If I had to use different boards for each object. Example one board for the servo, one for the leds. If I could only use one board that would be great as it would free up some space. I'll draw a diagram if need be in a few days. Trying to get the helmet done/fix problems I've been having with it.

If the 7805 is +5volts. What does that mean exactly? That it will give output of 5 volts or more than 5 volts? Servos need to be 6volts. Been looking at using 4 AAA batteries since they are smaller...not as much current ( I think they are 1,500 vs 2,000mAh)

Edit...I could use a 7805 and 7806 (05 for leds and 06 for the servos)

Do you have a link to the battery you use/supplier? I haven't found any that has high mAh rating great than 2000. Which is same cap. as 1 AA.

Did find this one and its 5,200 mAh or 5.2 A hhttp://www.batteryspace.com/li-ion18650battery74v5200mah385whflatbatterymodulewithpcbic.aspx
 
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I pretty much use The Custom Saber Shop for my speaker, battery pack needs..etc..

however.. a couple things..

if you want to give them 6v fine.. use the correct regulator..

using 4 x AA batteries directly will be OVER +6v fully charged Im betting.. (not sure if Alkalines are more fresh too)


however you regulate the voltage for you components is up to you..as long as the output voltages fits your needs..

if you want to use a breakout board.. or resistors if possible.. its up to you..



yes. the 7805 regulator will take in 6-12? voltages (maybe 15v? I dont recall).. and output a stable +5v voltage..
 
By using 2 voltage regluator hooked up to the parrallel cause problems? 7805 or whatever for the LEDS and 7806 for the servos? Coming off the battery power wire would go to both regulators ( have to splice another wire for the 2nd regulator and then another one for the Ardunio board) and do the same for the ground so there would be three points of contact (2 regulators and board) servo ground would go direct to the board because they don't work unless ground for them is at the board...still don't understand this as I though the board only send pulse singal to the servo.
 
(good question about the two regulators) my first answer is to say should be fine.. (but I havent researched it)



if it were "ME"..

I would use either the 7805/6 for your servo's..

and +3.3v regulator for the leds... (this way you dont need to serial them)


and yes board does only send the signal...but for it to understand they are all on the same playing field (more or less).. the GNDS have to be connected..
 
Was wondering if someone can post a diagram with the li-on battery with all resistors and regulators in place?? That helps alot!!!!!
Just as a working example...

Look on the last page bro, there is not one, but 2 diagrams showing the exactly same thing you asked for.



By using 2 voltage regluator hooked up to the parrallel cause problems? 7805 or whatever for the LEDS and 7806 for the servos? Coming off the battery power wire would go to both regulators ( have to splice another wire for the 2nd regulator and then another one for the Ardunio board) and do the same for the ground so there would be three points of contact (2 regulators and board) servo ground would go direct to the board because they don't work unless ground for them is at the board...still don't understand this as I though the board only send pulse singal to the servo.

Dj, that stuff is not alien tech, in fact is kinda simple, the 7805/06 needs +2V of difference between the input and output to work properly.

I'm using two 18650 batteries in series on project, (8.4V when they are fresh and full) and regulate to 5V with a LM7805.

DO NOT use the Arduino to power anything in the project, use it just to control things, imagine the Arduino is a giant programmable pushbutton.

About the servos, they work in a regime between 4.5 and 6.0V, so you can power them with 5V and it will be fine, you will still get enough torque (80~90%) to lift the faceplate, I'm sure!

use two 7805's, one for the leds and the other one for the servos and you will be fine (they usually handle 1~1.5A on the output)

anyways like xl97 likes to say, thats what I would do.
 
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When you are green as I am it might as well be alien tech. I'm catching on I feel like. I know the arduino is only for controling as well. Why couldn't I use one voltage regulator for the servo and leds? They aren't both going to be on at the same time (If I understand the code right)


Look on the last page bro, there is not one, but 2 diagrams showing the exactly same thing you asked for.





Dj, that stuff is not alien tech, in fact is kinda simple, the 7805/06 needs +2V of difference between the input and output to work properly.

DO NOT use the Arduino to power anything in the project, use it just to control things, imagine the Arduino is a giant programmable pushbutton.

About the servos, they work in a regime between 4.5 and 6.0V, so you can power them with 5V and it will be fine, you will still get enough torque (80~90%) to lift the faceplate, I'm sure!

use two 7805's, one for the leds and the other one for the servos and you will be fine (they usually handle 1~1.5A on the output)

anyways like xl97 likes to say, thats what I would do.

- - - Updated - - -

3.3 regulator like this one?

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/526

(good question about the two regulators) my first answer is to say should be fine.. (but I havent researched it)



if it were "ME"..

I would use either the 7805/6 for your servo's..

and +3.3v regulator for the leds... (this way you dont need to serial them)


and yes board does only send the signal...but for it to understand they are all on the same playing field (more or less).. the GNDS have to be connected..
 
you could probably use 1 LM7805 regulator..

the problem MIGHT be (again Im as new as everyone else here) :)... that the LM7805 (I think) only lets in around 800mA constant current?

depending on the LOAD we're only guessing at the real current needs/draw from the servos..



thinking..

batery to +5v regulator..

going to/through a transistor before going to the LEDS will have a small/slight voltage drop.. (probably under 0.7)

so calculate the resistor value used for the leds based off +5v - trans drop value..



here is a my quick wiring diagram from the other day:


make note of:

1.) this is for MY code
2.) double, triple check the transistor you use and get the pinout correct
3.) calculate resistor values based on the actual parts/battery..etc used IN THE PROJECT

IronMan_circuitLayout_xl97.jpg


as memebr says.. the Arduino (in this case) is nothing more than a smart button.... it POWERS/DRIVES nothings..

if you look at the IM led eye circuits boards I made.. you will see the leds, resistors and transistor are all one board/piece..

there are some solder pads on it, for the battery +/- pack.. but also a pad for the Arduino control/signal line..

the only real contact/connection with the Arduino.. :)
 
You are the man sir... I guess you have 2 transistors because of the mAh?

Here are my servos HS-82MG Servo
HS-82mg
Current Drain (4.8V): 8.8mA/idle and 220mA no load operating
Current Drain (6.0V): 9.1mA/idle and 280mA no load operating
 
I have two pins for the leds/eyes.. need to be able to trigger them both. :)

could probably only use 1, if the transistor allows that much current/saturation through...
 
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