Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Guys. Currently my servos are running directly from the arduino which is powered by USB. Surely I could just connect a 7.2v battery up to gnd and raw on the arduino (as a direct replacement for the USB power) and it would still do the same. Is this right or wrong? If its wrong, why is it wrong?

Alternatively would this setup work (excuse the crap drawing)

umuzavun.jpg


The arduino is 5v the servos are 5v.
 
xl97@ oh you're right if the torque is not enough the servo to hold the load the servo buzz.. i replace all my micro servo with 6.5kg servo, then adjust the angle that the servo motor not in stress when it turns.
 
Guys. Currently my servos are running directly from the arduino which is powered by USB. Surely I could just connect a 7.2v battery up to gnd and raw on the arduino (as a direct replacement for the USB power) and it would still do the same. Is this right or wrong? If its wrong, why is it wrong?

Alternatively would this setup work (excuse the crap drawing)

umuzavun.jpg


The arduino is 5v the servos are 5v.

sir i think you need a 5v regulator if your using arduino mini.
 
Information provided here:

http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/244

Obviously that is the 3.3v version. Connecting to the raw pin regulates to 3.3v on that.

Scroll down to section titled "powering the arduino mini".

Using the RAW input, the mini can regulate from up to 12v.
 
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good question..

Im fairly certain the hinge system is NOT doing any sort of 'holding'..

but I though the servo would lock/stay in the position you wrote it? (does detach do this? return to 0/close position or something?)

I have never used the detach() servo function before...

I knwo the metal geared servo's stay in place.. (but not sure if detach() is ever used/called)

(ie: TheRealStark uses a metal geared servo, and it stays)

i think if you detach the servo the faceplate still i place if it is up because the servo has a supply.. the best thing to do is use a servo that has enough torque and when you install it udjust in the right angle that the servo didn't stress.. i did that in my helmet and flaps to prevent the buzzing :) :)
 
If you want to connect the 5v servos to the 7.2v, you can use a voltage regulator.


I dont know why you guys use the Arduino "PRO" Mini, the Micro and the Nano are much easier to work with and not much bigger.

Andy

There was a reason we chose the mini pro, but can't remember it now. Maybe price, or something, I don't know I've slept since then lol, mini pro was a conscious decision though.

Right, so I've been advised previously in this thread to buy a power source greater than 5v.... Now I'm being advised to regulate it back to 5v after buying one of a higher value. This confuses me. Why bother buying higher value?

ALSO...
Why can't I just keep the same setup I have now and just have the servos pos and gnd connected directly to arduino? It's working absolutely fine from USB power through arduino to servos, so why would battery power be any different? Been advised countless times to power them externally but nobody has said why.
 
Hi just been reading through love the work I'm finishing my IP helmet this week and I'm going to motorize it I'm buying equipment today when I go shopping and quiet happy to play around and report results and one though of using 9v USB charging kit used to charge mobile phones for power supply?
 
Right, so I've been advised previously in this thread to buy a power source greater than 5v.... Now I'm being advised to regulate it back to 5v after buying one of a higher value. This confuses me. Why bother buying higher value?

The Arduino requires a stable 5V to run. Providing a power source greater than that running through the regulator ensures that it is getting that stable voltage. This is from the Arduino site explaining it:

"The board can operate on an external supply of 6 to 20 volts. If supplied with less than 7V, however, the 5V pin may supply less than five volts and the board may be unstable. If using more than 12V, the voltage regulator may overheat and damage the board. The recommended range is 7 to 12 volts."


ALSO...
Why can't I just keep the same setup I have now and just have the servos pos and gnd connected directly to arduino? It's working absolutely fine from USB power through arduino to servos, so why would battery power be any different? Been advised countless times to power them externally but nobody has said why.

The reason it is recommended to power servos seperately is because servos can draw a lot of current under load. With your set up now, the servos aren't actually moving anything so there is minimal current draw and it works fine. Once they have to actually move the faceplate they will draw more current. If they draw too much current the voltage will drop below the 5V the Arduino needs and it will reset. The Arduino wasn't designed to power external components, merely control them :).
 
You are the definition of awesome. Thank you. So 7.4v should do the job then regulate separately it to the servos to 5v and everything will be cushy?

Will running the servos on 7.4v without a regulator damage them? Or is it likely?
 
There was a reason we chose the mini pro, but can't remember it now. Maybe price, or something, I don't know I've slept since then lol, mini pro was a conscious decision though.

Right, so I've been advised previously in this thread to buy a power source greater than 5v.... Now I'm being advised to regulate it back to 5v after buying one of a higher value. This confuses me. Why bother buying higher value?

ALSO...
Why can't I just keep the same setup I have now and just have the servos pos and gnd connected directly to arduino? It's working absolutely fine from USB power through arduino to servos, so why would battery power be any different? Been advised countless times to power them externally but nobody has said why.

1.) the voltage regulator on the Arduino (at least on the Duemilanove/Unos) its +5v regulator.. (meaning you need MORE than +5v to power it.. they recommend 7-12.. but you 'can' use +6v at a minimum)

2.) Your servo(s) do NOT have any sort of voltage regulator... (and they are rated (usually) for +5v tops.. some maybe a bit more..(have to read your specific servo spec sheet), which is why you are being told that if you want to attach a battery pack DIRECTLY to the servo.. make sure the voltage is regulated correctly to be with-in its specs.


A.) being plugged into your USB hub might be causing extra 'noise' on the planes.... this is ALSO a regulated power source form the hub as well..
(solid +5v)

a battery its NOT solid +5v... and in fact you need MORE than the voltage regulator to power it.. ... once your battery pack falls below (about) +6v the Arduino wont work anymore.. the voltage drop across the regulator and the project itself will drain the battery a bit. (this is why you are told to get a battery above +5v.. its what everyone and the Arduino site says to do)

And the suggestion about WHY using external power has been commented on.

1.) The Arduino board can ONLY do'give so much.. (it has limits).. MANY compoennts need MORE than what an Arduino can delivery in terms of current..

Arduino = 20mA (40 max) per pin.. and only (I think 200mA in total)

When you servo works/runs.. it pulls current.. (they say usually 1 servo hooked up if fine..if you use more.. try powering things from external battery source).. if the servo or motor is under load.. it may pull more (maybe even more than the Arduino can safely give and possibly ruin the Arduino permanently)


2.) could help on noise reduction... as well as moving away form the USB power.. and finally getting OFF the breadboard test bed.. (these can all lead to 'noise' in your circuit)





If you want to drive the servos' from the Arduino.. all wires go tot Arduino (none to battery pack)..

V++
GND
Control line
...all go to Arduino pins.


If you want to power from battery pack..
V++ on servo goes to battery pack (make sure the battery pack is regulated to a voltage the servo can handle)

Control pin goes to Arduino

GND goes to battery pack GND


(also make sure the GNDS on the battery pack/arduino/servo are all connected.)





Question:

looking forward... how wold you keep USB power? IN the end you need to use a self contained battery source..right? (cant keep your costume plugged into a computer) :)

I think removal of USB power
cleaning up the final test bed form the breaboard

will help in things..



maybe post a pic of your current/final wiring?? maybe we can see something that was overlooked?
 
Will running the servos on 7.4v without a regulator damage them? Or is it likely?

it is likely..

'but' (and I knwo how much you love this).. it depends! LOL..

look at your servo datasheet..and it will give you the operating voltage it runs on. :)

some may go over +5v... (commonly though +5v is normal for these to run at)

either way.. all you need a +5v regulator form RadioShack (or wherever).. and a couple of caps.. (to keep the voltage smooth, no ripples)
 
Nice. I am NOW confident the equipment in this project is complete.

From this post on my assumption is that we can concentrate on mods.
 
I've just bought this at maplin which has a USB converter attachment portable powerjust to see how it works out

Im confused..

whats it for? to replace a battery pack? (does it have betteries inside? or need to be plugged in to something? somehow?) :)




If it were me.. I'd 'borrow' the same approach I do other projects that need batteries.. (li-ion pack, set-up as in-project charging)

(li-ions means smaller/less batteries than alkaline for example. more voltage/current too)
(maybe even a li-po pack if you wanted to get smaller)

I recommend this:

7.4v Li-ion 800mAh 14500 Battery Pack

(maybe even a smaller 10450 pack.. and/or make them youself even if you want to save)


wire in this power jack:
2.1mm Power Jack

this is so you can you easily re-charge the batteries.. (while still 'in' the project)... with a battery charger... -OR-.. if you put in a 'kill key'.. this will break the GND line.. and cut all power.. (so it doesnt drain while on the shelf) ;)

Lastly.. the li-ion charger:
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger

but this can be used to charge ALL your current/future battery packs..
 
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It's a battery pack you charge then just attach it via USB or other phone adapters it's basically used charge your phone while your out and about I've got one powering arc and hands in my mk4
 
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