Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

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xl97

Master Member
I dont do Facebook unfortunately.. :)

is it public? is there a YouTube version?

either way.. you're welcome.

glad everything worked out.
 

tijojo98

Active Member
I hope it will be a sucess but im kind of scared because i dont understand english really well and electronic language and programing is like suicide for me to understand

Envoyé de mon SM-G530W en utilisant Tapatalk
 

tijojo98

Active Member
Im pretty annoyed now because I forgot the motorized part and arduino and only want to power 3v Led or 12 V led strip but i need 2 AA battery holder or 8 AA battery holder and they dont sell them in america in fact i realized that they pretty much sell nothing in america for electronics and my deadline is july 7th
 

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ErkNinja

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Im pretty annoyed now because I forgot the motorized part and arduino and only want to power 3v Led or 12 V led strip but i need 2 AA battery holder or 8 AA battery holder and they dont sell them in america in fact i realized that they pretty much sell nothing in america for electronics and my deadline is july 7th

Have you tried digikey?
2 AA
8 AA
 

Akshat

New Member
hey everyone,
i am thinking to use a lcd 16x2, servos 2, accelerometer 335, micro sd card breakout board, speakers, arduno nano, some leds (maybe 6 for each eye).


so the plan is that the accelerometer will toggle functions that will be displayed on the lcd.



lcd will display various functions like
open the faceplate,
close the faceplate,
turn on the lights,
turn off the lights,
play some music, etc etc.


so the plan is if i tilt my head in the direction of positive x then the function currently been displayed on the lcd should toggle to next function and if i want to choose that function then i will tlt my head in the direction of -x axis.


can anyone help me with the setup and code. I am completely a noob in electronics and arduino stuff.
And yeah a GREAT plan popped in my head that if my helmet could contain a retinal scan to check if the person is me or not.
I dont seriously mean retinal scan it can be implemented by a rfid card reader fixed inside the helmet and a tag somwhere on my collar or somwhere
so when i wear the helmet
the tag shoud be recognized andif there is no tag recognized then a audio file should play and the the whole helmet should shut down.










And at the last I would like to say that IT IS THE BEST THREAD ON THE RPF.

and yeah thanks in advance
thank you 7 sinzz
xl97 and many others who contributed and shared there thoughts and made it easy for noobs like me to make my own iron man helmet
 

xl97

Master Member
My question is/would be... why?

You have less I/O pins..

different chip, so less memory...etc


Its based of the Attiny85 chip.. instead of the '328 chip.

You can get a Pro-Mini (which is still based off the 328 chip) with a smaller footprint than the Nano (if that is the goal?) and it'll cost roughly $2-$3.00 USD on ebay.
 

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ubcs86

Active Member
I liked the concept of having the built-in USB plug, I have a pro-mini with the USB piece that i hook the pins when I upload code and disconnect when it's finished. I like the idea of that and the built in regulator. The more inclusive the board the better in my eyes. Also why I dropped it in here, a lot more people more knowledgeable than I who can help me look past the convenience of the add-ons and look at the actual guts.
 

xl97

Master Member
Nano's have usb connector..

Pro-Micro's (not to be confused with Pro-Mini's)..

also have a micro USB connector on-board.

both will give you more memory for your code.. and more I/O pins..

I guess depending on the code you write... it might all fit? (worth a shot I guess if you already have it)
 

ubcs86

Active Member
I believe i have a pro-mini (no onboard usb). Im just using a basic servo up/down and eye on/off, nothing crazy. I have yet to move my rough setup using the nano to the mini, mainly because i'm getting servo buzzing and awkward jitters (i know my voltage setup is still wonky). I'll have to check the size of the code when I reinvigorate the project.
 

xl97

Master Member
make sure you have all grounds connected... this should stop the jitter.

(there are pages here where this is talked about as well)..


although a pic of your wiring would be helpful.. or a wiring diagram of how you believe it to be hooked up.

* do not power/drive the servo from the Arduino.. it cant supply enough current. (especially if the servo is under load)

battery source should connect to Arduino to power it.
battery source should also directly connect to servo through a (I'd suggest 6v, but that depends on your servo specs) voltage regulator.

the only 'connection' from the Arduino to the servo should be 1 wire (the control/signal line)..

the Arduino should also connect to the regulated GND line that also goes to the servo(s)

that should stop your jitters...
 

SuburbanComics

New Member
Hi all! I'm brand new to The RPF but have been reading through this thread and countless other sites and pages about making my own helmet for a while now. There is so much info and knowledge written here and it's amazing to see how many brilliant people there are that were able to figure all of this out.

I followed all of the buying and assembly instructions from 7sinzz's Captivating Costumes page. I set up my arduino, bread board and servos last night and after running into a few problems thought it would be best to finally join the boards.

Anyway, the biggest problem so far is that the instructions say to place a reed switch in the e30 and f28 holes on the bread board. My reed switch is just too long to get the poles to fit in those specified holes. Since the rails are connected I figured that I could just put them on either side of the center rail and run my jumper cables from each row and everything would be good.

But, after setting everything up and uploading the code I ran the magnet passed the reed switch and the servos rotate one direction then immediately the other direction and then jitters a few times. I triple checked everything and the only conclusion that I could come to is that the problem is a result of me having to place the switch in different locations.

I am brand new to all of this, so, I hope this makes sense, and any help at this stage would be much appreciated.

IMG_8561.JPG IMG_8562.JPG
 

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Jennigirl

Sr Member
I have the Marvel Legends Series Iron Man Helmet, and am completely electronic illiterate. Is there any way to send my helmet to someone to do it for me for a few dollars?
 

Jestare

New Member
Does anyone have the sound files for the opening/closing of the helmet? The original posts that contained them dont seem to have attachments anymore.
 

whatisfeeding

New Member
I've got it all together but the switch doesn't seem to work. I've tried rotating it around and using different switches. If I plug and unplug the wires next to the switch, it works though. Anyone know what might be the solution?
 

xl97

Master Member
You can solder to the Pro-Mini directly... You can solder some header pins on your pro-mini and mount it to a breadboard.. and connect through that.. There is really no difference between an Arduino and Pro-Mini.. outside of some 'convenience' factors... (on-board USB for programming..etc).. mostly its all about form factor (footprint/size) You need to order a USB/TTL adapter to program them.. You could also use a Nano.. which DOES have on-board USB..
 

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