Iron man 3 Mk 8 in pepakura - A collaboration work
- Thread starter IMIM2
- Start date
IMIM2
Sr Member
Re: Mk VIII -yes 8- helmet and forearm WIP
The hand plate is not too small, it is the hand that is too big.
Took picture the front shin shown and added detailed lines (not too clearly seen). Too bad all of these are just tester.
Will do a fresh new set next week (helmet, forearm, shin, hand plate and maybe boot, all are lefties). I finished unfolding the bicep, but will do modification some more :love.
The hand plate is not too small, it is the hand that is too big.
Took picture the front shin shown and added detailed lines (not too clearly seen). Too bad all of these are just tester.
Will do a fresh new set next week (helmet, forearm, shin, hand plate and maybe boot, all are lefties). I finished unfolding the bicep, but will do modification some more :love.
EyeofSauron
Master Member
Re: Mk VIII -yes 8- helmet and forearm WIP
is the helmet made out of foam, and if so, how did you get the surface sealed so smoothly?
is the helmet made out of foam, and if so, how did you get the surface sealed so smoothly?
Dagibbon
Member
Re: Mk VIII -yes 8- helmet and forearm WIP
IMIM2 and Helagak, I am loving this collaborated build! Was just about to start a noob Mark 4 build. Now i'm looking at your pictures and thinking hmm, I wonder if.....:behave Think I'll probably leave it to the pro's.
Keep up the awesome work; can't wait to see more!
IMIM2 and Helagak, I am loving this collaborated build! Was just about to start a noob Mark 4 build. Now i'm looking at your pictures and thinking hmm, I wonder if.....:behave Think I'll probably leave it to the pro's.
Keep up the awesome work; can't wait to see more!
IMIM2
Sr Member
Re: Mk VIII -yes 8- helmet and forearm WIP
@Dagibbon,
I just finished my suit when I joined RPF. So I am a newbie too!
So it's a collaboration of newbs :lol.
It's not about new or pro, it is how to pick up the skills and applied it.
If you need our help, just post your build progress, we'll help you out, no worries. You can also find helpful tips on my other thread. By posting your build you are actually helping other members too.
@EoS: It's foam, I put 4 coats of diluted roof sealing material. It is almost the same as PVA except it is waterproof (no tacky) when it's dry. So my suit would be function as raincoat too :lol. As for paint, silver wood paint dry brushed as primer, then two-three coats of aerosol spray paint (red and gold).
@Dagibbon,
I just finished my suit when I joined RPF. So I am a newbie too!
So it's a collaboration of newbs :lol.
It's not about new or pro, it is how to pick up the skills and applied it.
If you need our help, just post your build progress, we'll help you out, no worries. You can also find helpful tips on my other thread. By posting your build you are actually helping other members too.
@EoS: It's foam, I put 4 coats of diluted roof sealing material. It is almost the same as PVA except it is waterproof (no tacky) when it's dry. So my suit would be function as raincoat too :lol. As for paint, silver wood paint dry brushed as primer, then two-three coats of aerosol spray paint (red and gold).
IMIM2
Sr Member
Re: Mk VIII -yes 8- helmet and forearm WIP
Thank you for asking.
It's the skill I picked up during my plastic modeling time (long time ago in a galaxy far far away)
I used a flat paint brush with stiff hairs, and tip it into the paint.
We only need so little of the paint on the tip (sometimes after dip, use a paper to rub off the paint).
Then we can brush it over the surface.
This trick can be used if you want to create weathering or worn effect. Applied over last paint coat (before clear coat if you want the effect to be permanent). Some use PU foam (porous foam) as flat brush.
I used it for the surface before painting to create old/brushed metal look (see my picture for silver helmet and forearm). It took a bit paint that just a tip and rub (more like a tip period). I "poked" the surface first with the brush, leaving small spot of paints, then run a circular motion to smear the paint. So instead of using primer (make everything smooth, uniform color), I made it uneven.
In this way, if you cover it with candytone red (semi transparent red paint), the red will not be smooth red, but it has "depth" of lighter and darker color. If we leave the area near seam/edge, we can have darker color. In that way it'll accentuated the corners/edge without giving too "cartooney" look.
In the case of this particular Mk8, I picked opaque light gold color (no candy tone light gold), so the effect can't be seen on gold areas. I added more silver on the helmet and the forearm so the effect can't be seen clearly.
Here's example of what I did on dry brushing before I even found out wet brushing (show off a bit :cool)
In oppose to dry brush, there is wet brush technique :lol. I am not covering that until someone came up with a question.
Hmm, this is a nice material for my tip.
Thank you for asking.
It's the skill I picked up during my plastic modeling time (long time ago in a galaxy far far away)
I used a flat paint brush with stiff hairs, and tip it into the paint.
We only need so little of the paint on the tip (sometimes after dip, use a paper to rub off the paint).
Then we can brush it over the surface.
This trick can be used if you want to create weathering or worn effect. Applied over last paint coat (before clear coat if you want the effect to be permanent). Some use PU foam (porous foam) as flat brush.
I used it for the surface before painting to create old/brushed metal look (see my picture for silver helmet and forearm). It took a bit paint that just a tip and rub (more like a tip period). I "poked" the surface first with the brush, leaving small spot of paints, then run a circular motion to smear the paint. So instead of using primer (make everything smooth, uniform color), I made it uneven.
In this way, if you cover it with candytone red (semi transparent red paint), the red will not be smooth red, but it has "depth" of lighter and darker color. If we leave the area near seam/edge, we can have darker color. In that way it'll accentuated the corners/edge without giving too "cartooney" look.
In the case of this particular Mk8, I picked opaque light gold color (no candy tone light gold), so the effect can't be seen on gold areas. I added more silver on the helmet and the forearm so the effect can't be seen clearly.
Here's example of what I did on dry brushing before I even found out wet brushing (show off a bit :cool)
In oppose to dry brush, there is wet brush technique :lol. I am not covering that until someone came up with a question.
Hmm, this is a nice material for my tip.
streetsoul
Sr Member
these look awsome guys are you modeling them for pep or foam orrrrr maybe both and are you relesing them aswell ?
IMIM2
Sr Member
Thank you for nice comments.
This file has not been tested. As you see on our previous attempts, not everything we did was a success. It's a learning precess.
Also the pep files only be used as general guidelines, detailed need to be added by freehand. However, we made it as detailed as possible.
We made this for foam build not paper.
Too much work on unnecessary detail for paper that can be easily achieved by foam (gaps between plates).
This file has not been tested. As you see on our previous attempts, not everything we did was a success. It's a learning precess.
Also the pep files only be used as general guidelines, detailed need to be added by freehand. However, we made it as detailed as possible.
We made this for foam build not paper.
Too much work on unnecessary detail for paper that can be easily achieved by foam (gaps between plates).
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