INFO needed on how to determine real or fake graflex..

[joker-scar]

hey guys, need help/ tips on how to determine whether a graflex is original or a fake? I have a luke MR one, but I would like to get a real thing as well. if you could pass along any tips to verify a graflex when i start hunting one down on this or any other site. as we all know a lot of people out there passing off fakes as real and i have been stung in the past on other items and want to avoid it happening on this future purchase. thanks

 

[Sym-Cha]

Hi there,

read here for all the info needed:

http://www.therpf.com/f9/live-graflex-lol-62658/

Also the letters G and X should be aligned with the tab holes on the real clamp as seen here on my Obi-Wan clamp :

See what I mean?

-Chaim

 

[joker-scar]

thx ,man...

 

[Sym-Cha]

You're very welcome,

When in doubt send me a PM with a link (ebay)
or pictures of the one you have your eyes on
to assist you before purchasing/bidding.

-Chaim

 

[Fenderbender]

Also, the patent number is usually only stamped on the bottom of the real ones.

 

[KaanE]

All the repros have Folmer instead of the pattern number, but not all the Folmers are repros.

 

[Sym-Cha]

Also, the patent number is usually only stamped on the bottom of the real ones.

There are real 'Made by Folmer Graflex Corp.' flashguns without the patent number,
which are of an older date then the later 'Manufactured by Graflex,Inc.' produced
flashguns with the patent number.

-Chaim

 

[Howard]

Chaim's right.

Replica on the left, real on the right.
The replica is a Parks I've cut down the middle for another cutaway project.
Note the position of the G in relation to the tab hole.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here you can see the letter spacing is different.

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Here you'll notice the finish, or the 'warmth' of a real Graflex, at the top.
The replica is a little too silver, for want of a better word. Also, the brushing is not so defined, or in other words too fine compared to a real Graflex.


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Other things to look out for is the clamp lever, which on a replica is too silver (chromed) and appears to be plastic.

The red button's chroming will be too bright.

The raised hole that holds the glass bulb can sometimes not look right - the transitional 'line' between the body of the Graflex and the hole will not be as defined.

Lastly, the brass recharge pins will have a patina too them on a real Graflex, whereas replica pins will be too new, or have an uneven weathered look. Remove the red button and take a look at them.

 

[DARTH SABER]

If all else fails, open the graflex and smell the inside.
Any authentic graflex will have a stale old smell.