IG-88 Lamps

genZOD

Sr Member
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This was a really fun project. One of these lamps is for me, the other is for my brother. I hope he likes it.

I built these IG-88 lamps from some excellent resin casts made by an RPF member. There was the normal flash to be removed, plus dozens of holes that needed to be drilled out. The lamp base is from Ikea. I adjusted the height of the bulb by removing 6 inches from the rod that supports it. I 3D printed a reasonably Star Wars-y looking connector to join the two pieces. The switch is from a company that makes "vintage" light switches. The housing for the switch is something that I 3D printed. The paint scheme for the base is meant to be reminiscent of the colors used on some of the Death Star sets. I imagined it was a piece of imperial equipment that got repurposed. I thought that the red on the base and the glowing red from IG-88's "eyes" would work well together. The glowing red effect was achieved by painting a clear plastic tube translucent red & using it to diffuse the light from a red LED bulb.

IG-88's paint was done in several steps. First a coat of primer to make sure that the surface was OK. Then a coat of black--partly to make sure that light didn't leak & partly to influence the next coat of silver. Once the silver pain dried I added a tarnish effect by brushing on several colors of PearlEx metallic powders. I tried to imagine places where heat might discolor the metal. I sealed everything with a clear coat. After that, I randomly applied silver leaf. The intended effect is chrome that has failed. I brushed black weathering powder over all of this and used a liner brush to enhance some of the cast details. The powder catches the edges of the silver leaf & enhances the failing chrome effect. I toned the silver down with a coat of translucent black paint. I did the chrome step three times to get multiple layers of a failing finish. Next, I sealed everything again. I added a little rust and more weathering powder. I also used panel liner to further accentuate the casting. Then, yet again, I sealed everything with a clear coat. Finally I added oil drips & random dirt. After everything was allowed to dry, I sealed the heads with one final top coat.

The base was way easier to paint. I used a vinyl cutter to make the stencil. I Painted the bases cleanly--then dropped nuts and bolts onto them and hit them with a hammer. The 3D printed piece got a layer of Hammerite that was allowed to cure. Then a coat of red that I strategically chipped away. Once the base was assembled I weathered it.

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A very neat idea. Careful of the heat emitted from the LED electronics. It doesn't take too much to soften up resin.

TazMan2000
 
A very neat idea. Careful of the heat emitted from the LED electronics. It doesn't take too much to soften up resin.

TazMan2000
Funny you mention that. I was going to line the inside with heat reflective tape. I use it with 3D printed stuff sometimes. I wasn't looking forward to it because these things are huge and it was going to use up a ton of the stuff. Also, the tape can be a pain to work with. Anyway, maybe because this was originally a jet engine part... but it's a really effective chimney. The heat flows right out the top and cool air is drawn in the big holes on the side. I've left it on for hours and it barely gets warm. The hottest part isn't near the bulb but at the very tip of the cone. But even that is not very warm.

EDIT: Thinking about this a bit more. I don’t think the shape of the head is the main reason heat is carried away so well. The bulb is inside a central tube (clear painted translucent red) that is insulating the resin well enough that the heat escapes out the top before anything heats up.
 
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These look amazing - great job genZOD! I have a resign IG88 head as well that has just sat in the box for several years. Haven't been able to decide whether I wanted to go accurate IG-88 look or something else (which might be a lamp now! LOL).

Would you be willing to share what specific paint brand/colors you used?
 
These look amazing - great job genZOD! I have a resign IG88 head as well that has just sat in the box for several years. Haven't been able to decide whether I wanted to go accurate IG-88 look or something else (which might be a lamp now! LOL).

Would you be willing to share what specific paint brand/colors you used?
I'm sorry that I've taken so long to reply! I just started a new job and an illustration gig at the same time--things have been hectic.

This head was so big that I had to adapt my usual technique a bit. I went with spray cans instead of using my airbrush, for example. Anyway Paints used:

After lots of sanding I marked out and drilled all of the holes. I coated the entire thing, inside and out, with cheap grey primer. Then I scuffed up and recoated the interior with the primer since the first coat didn't adhere. Lesson learned...

The base coat for the heads is Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf over a coat of flat black TS-6. This color was darkened with a coat of TS-71 Smoke. I then added random patches from real silver leaf sheets. The idea is to replicate areas where the chrome finish hasn't worn/flaked off. The effect is pretty cool In person. All of this was toned down with more TS-71 Smoke. I added a second round of Silver leaf and smoke to build up some layers.

I rubbed various copper and green PerlEx powders into the nooks and crannies, sealing them with TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear. I added some more PerlEx powders to places that I wanted to look tarnished. IIRC, I used the same copper & green colors. Again, all of this was sealed with TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear. After a few days of drying time, I wet sanded the whole head.

I dirtied the whole thing up with Humbrol weathering powder -- sealed with TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear. I used Tamiya panel liner to bring out more of the details. I used several of the darker colors from Vallejo's rust kit to add the big rusty/dirty areas. That was followed by a last coat of TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear.

I probably went in and noodled around a bit more than that, but these are pretty much the steps I took.

The red tube on the inside was a clear tube that I bought on Amazon that I cut to length & painted Tamiya Clear red PS-37.

The lamp base was from Ikea. I shortened the internally threaded rod that holds the lightbulb and rewired it to work with the switch I made from a housing I 3D printed and some vintage looking lamp switches that I found on the web. I used a red LED Amazon Basics lightbulb. I added a black finned detail (also 3D printed) to the rod to make it look more Star Wars-y. The colors used on the base were (I think) TS-8 Italian red, TS-7 racing white and flat black TS-6. I was trying to replicate the colors of some of the computer consoles on the Death Star. The metal was beaten on with random hand tools, bolts & pieces of scrap metal. I used chipping fluid for the chipped red over silver on the 3D printed part. My thought was that this was an old piece of imperial equipment that has been repurposed. Anyway, I used pretty much the same combination of weathering powder & panel liner to make it look dirty and oil stained.

Let me know if you want any of the 3D bits. They are pretty simple, but do the job.
 
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Clicked into this thread thinking it was going to be some questions or random discussion. Wow was I wrong. That paint and weathering job is unreal! Great work!
 
Clicked into this thread thinking it was going to be some questions or random discussion. Wow was I wrong. That paint and weathering job is unreal! Great work!
Thanks! Now that it's totally cured, I really should do cut and polish. Well, a selective polish...
 
I just joined and was looking for led projects as that is my interest right now and this is really awesome. Great job!
 
I just joined and was looking for led projects as that is my interest right now and this is really awesome. Great job!
Thanks! I'm working on a Death Star Christmas tree topper. I'll post pictures when it's finished. It's based on the old AMT model. It'll be lit with LEDs and fiberoptics. So far, I've drilled about half the holes... so many...
 
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