How to plastic coat foam costume pieces

[jeffreygullett]

Jeff, what's the rigidity like?

I'd say its semi rigid. But not completely rigid. Smaller pieces become more rigid than larger pieces. But don't expect it to come out like a fiber glass suit. But in my opinion it's probably better. It makes it more wearable if it has some flexibility.

 

[7sinzz]

Have u tried a fingernail test? I found that just a small amount of pressure and my nail went through it quite easily. How many coats have you used?

 

[ironman wanabee]

this is the method for me.. how much rotocast liquid plastic stuff do you think you would need to do the whole suit??

 

[jeffreygullett]

this is the method for me.. how much rotocast liquid plastic stuff do you think you would need to do the whole suit??

This was just asked and answered. Please read the thread.

 

[7sinzz]

I believe its stated that 3kg would probably do the job. Ive managed to do a helmet, chest and 2 forearms with just 0.5kg but I'm gonna do LOADS of coats. Hopefully use the entire 7kg lol. Get the job done thoroughly
I'm also gonna fibreglass the inside too. I understand that this voids the point of using foam, however I never decided on a foam build for flexibility, I decided on it because its considerably quicker and easier than paper peps.
I reiterate my earlier point though. Only use a mixture of a measured 20ml at a time. Any more and you won't have enough application time.

 

[LordCaharin]

Great tut.

 

[focusam]

una pregunta,aquellos que usais el 65d lo haceis a pincel? cuantos piceles gastais para una armadura? lo digo por que cada 2.5 minutos se pone duro y no me vale el pincel

algun sistema para aplicarlo al traje?

a question, the 65d usais those who you do it with a brush? you spend for a few brush armor? I say that every 2.5 minutes is hard and not worth the brush me

system to apply to any suit?

 

[mrstattootoyou]

Your work is amazing! Thanks for the help

 

[XenXen]

just thinking if we could try tinting the mixture with acrylic paint to apply even coats? any opinions on this ?

 

[electraflier]

There are specific tints for the smooth on products. Even their tints can cause issues with set times and cure hardness. If that is what you are talking about I wouldn't experiment, stuffs way too expensive . If I jumped in late on another product my apologies! Always try your experiments on scrap or throw away parts. Desire to make progress can make you want to rush.

 

[focusam]

disculpen la insistencia,pero alguien puede aconsejarme sobre mi consulta por favor? estoy parado en ese sentido.


Limpiaban los utensilios con acetona por ejemplo? disolvente? o usaban acaso algun artilugio para untar


sorry for the insistence, but someone can advise me on my query please? I stand in this regard.


Utensils cleaned with acetone for example? solvent? Has any contrivance used or spreads

 

[jeffreygullett]

disculpen la insistencia,pero alguien puede aconsejarme sobre mi consulta por favor? estoy parado en ese sentido.


Limpiaban los utensilios con acetona por ejemplo? disolvente? o usaban acaso algun artilugio para untar


sorry for the insistence, but someone can advise me on my query please? I stand in this regard.


Utensils cleaned with acetone for example? solvent? Has any contrivance used or spreads

I think I understand your question. If you're asking about cleaning brushes for using more than once, you really cannot do it. I've tried. You can try cleaning the resin with acetone but it doesn't work very well. You're best bet is to find cheap chip brushes and buy a LOT of them. After the first few times I tried cleaning the brushes I just gave up and started buying chip brushes in bulk.

 

[darkside501st]

I think I understand your question. If you're asking about cleaning brushes for using more than once, you really cannot do it. I've tried. You can try cleaning the resin with acetone but it doesn't work very well. You're best bet is to find cheap chip brushes and buy a LOT of them. After the first few times I tried cleaning the brushes I just gave up and started buying chip brushes in bulk.

I can clean smooth on 300 off my brushes with acetone and it isn't too hard if I get the brush in the jar and mix it around before the resin fully cures. If it cures first then it will have to soak for a while before the resin dissolves.

 

[jeffreygullett]

I can clean smooth on 300 off my brushes with acetone and it isn't too hard if I get the brush in the jar and mix it around before the resin fully cures. If it cures first then it will have to soak for a while before the resin dissolves.

How fast does 300 cure? 65D sets pretty hard in about 3 minutes. I had no luck cleaning brushes.

 

[darkside501st]

How fast does 300 cure? 65D sets pretty hard in about 3 minutes. I had no luck cleaning brushes.

They offer 300 in different curing times... 5 min, 10 min, and I think the next one is close to 30 min.

 

[elderdon]

I'm planning on building a Samus suit using this method
Does anyone know exactly what type of foam is best? I was thinking of just getting some 6mm foam from my local craft store, but it looks like I might need a thicker type of craft foam.
I guess my real question is, how much foam on a rough estimate, did you guys use for your iron man suit? 30-40 sheets? I'm not sure, I'm just trying to get the best cost estimate.
Also, I was planning on using Flexbond (07500 0128 - Flexbond - 1 Gallon - StageStore.ca - your Canadian source for Theatrical Supplies) for the glue agent instead of PVA

Any sort of direction on this would be awesome, thanks!

I used about 6 sheets of 10mm foam, 24"x24" for most of my mk 4/6, and about 10 sheets of 5mm foam, 9"x11", for the helmet and forearms. If I were to do this again, I'd probably build the majority out of something thinner than 10mm, because I had a little trouble getting the curves pretty, and cutting through it is a pain. I was able to have very little scrap foam, because I traced all of the pieces on before cutting, to maximize space.

 

[Ray48]

For those who want an alternative to the 65 or 300 in common with this thread, Ive tried a different self leveling product on foam. It is called Styro spray 1000. from www.industrial polymers.com . It is not a urethane product at all. It is a 1 to 1 epoxy. It requires no pva at all but they do make a primer to fill surface texture. I have used the product for coating foam samples and it takes a couple hours to set and 24 hours for full cure. It was designed for spray on application but it can be brushed as easily and cures to a high gloss finish. I'm told that cure time can be substantially reduced by adding a few drops of water although I haven't tried it yet. Just another option for you folks to consider. Their web site has some demo videos which are enlightening.:cool

 

[Zantergog]

Great process thanks for sharing I might test this with my resin, it's the 2 minute fast cast from smoothon - as you state I think the slower rotocast would work better

 

[XenXen]

Anyone have any idea to extend the pot life of the 65d for a little longer? i tried adding some solvent and it seems to work a little, but im not sure of the side effects yet

 

[ironman wanabee]

if I am using magnets to connect various pieces which have a tendency to pull off the foam sometimes instead of coming apart would being "buried under a few layers of plastic help possibly prevent that?