How to : Lets start at the begining....Blueprints!

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by Skyler101, Mar 15, 2002.

  1. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Hey guys,

    There has been some great tutorials written from board members, and they cover a large area. I was thinking that it would be great to get a thread talking about the major steps one takes from deciding to make a prop, to actually making one.

    I believe the first step would be to make plans of the item one would make. Blueprinting!!

    So, IÂ’ll throw out the topic. How do you start to devise plans for a prop, assuming that you have all the photos of the item.

    What tricks and tips do you have to make this task easy?

    Lets get to it!! [​IMG]

    -Skyler101
     
  2. Thrawn2222

    Thrawn2222 New Member

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    Depends on what its gonna be made out of really... If it was something like a lightsaber, or a pulse rifle, or something complicated, I would definately draw it in CAD, if it was something that is scratch built... I would just sketch out rough plans...
     
  3. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    OK, but what steps do you use to get these plans made into CAD?

    How do you interperate them from lines on paper, to a 3d shape?

    -Skyler101
     
  4. Thrawn2222

    Thrawn2222 New Member

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    Well, it depends, if you want me to be technical, I take the top, right, front, and any auxilary views and then I use that information to render a 3D image (which I don't do very often, I am more of a 2d person, besides, blueprints are 2D [​IMG] ) In lame man's terms, I make the computer screen look like the piece of paper [​IMG]
     
  5. TallDarkandDisfigured

    TallDarkandDisfigured Sr Member

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    I just do rough sketches first then a second draft with proper dimensions and to scale. I suck with CAD programs.
     
  6. The Hopkinator

    The Hopkinator Sr Member

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    I built a couple pretty cool props,,a lifesized endo/which i can pretty much say Id buy one of Pauls before doing again/a Predator,which is actually a highly modified 2d wall mount,a couple busts and now a pretty cool Alien prop made to look like hes busting through a wall.With mine,I never made blueprints.Id just kinda step back and look at it,then think about what it needed next.Id post a picture but, uhhh I dont know how.They can be seen however at Craigscantina.moonbase.net in the replica props section if your interested.I was never really good at following instructions.And thats also led me to getting kicked out of everything socially acceptable I ever tried to be part of...
     
  7. Matsuo

    Matsuo Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well as for me theres a device that Murralists sign painters cake decorators and school teachers alike use....An overhead projector! I take a line drawing or a photo and make a transparency and then project the object to full size...or at least what I think is full size , if I don't have the actual measurements.
    I then either draw out full size paterns on paper or directly onto the material to be cut as the piece may dictate.

    To a lesser extent, opaque projectors and even slide projectors can be used to project and enlarge pictures and or scale drawings to full size images of the prop. To then be traced out and rendered into a full size schematic.

    Just one of many ways I guess. I have known some designers to take an object or image and have a printer or blueprint shop blow it up to full size and use those drawings, to guide their full size renderings in 3-D.

    And that's all I got to say about that.

    Matt.
    *fell in love with a cake decorator*
     
  8. Brevin Din-Shay

    Brevin Din-Shay Well-Known Member

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    I agree 100% that blueprints are essential, and Skyler, this is a great topic.

    There is already a site out there with some blueprints on it. Here's the link, in case anyone hasn't seen it:

    http://www.geocities.com/c-boath/index2.htm

    Please forgive me if that's a common-knowledge type of thing, I just thought I'd add it since it does pertain to the thread. [​IMG]

    I'd love to see more blueprints of stuff beyond just lightsabers.

    David
     
  9. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Overhead projector... Thats a sweet idea!

    Thats kinda what I was looking for as a tip...

    But there has to be other ways to get plans made and converted. I recently tried to make some plans by getting a photo of the item in photoshop, and then "tracing" over it. It didnt work to well! Doh! Anyone tried something like this?

    -Skyler101
     
  10. TallDarkandDisfigured

    TallDarkandDisfigured Sr Member

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    I am working on a mouse droid right now and I only had 3 measurments, so I tried using a pic and doing measurments using comparison with what I knew but the angle of the pic must have distorted it because it came out way off.

    I just got the feeling that's is not what you meant. :/
     
  11. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    I think it would be good for people to know what works and what doesnt...

    All notes are welcome.

    I am thinking if its worth finding something we can look at and discuss how to make blueprints from, like a prop, and hosting the pick. That way we can discuss differnt methods..

    What ya think?

    -Skyler101
     
  12. TallDarkandDisfigured

    TallDarkandDisfigured Sr Member

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    You mean put up a pic and have everyone work on it to see whats best? That soounds like a good idea.
     
  13. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Okay...

    I tried to pick something that would interest us, but has not been done, ect.. Nothing like members crying out "Hey, thats my peice, I dont want plans made...."

    So what I found was a toy Landram that was made for the BSG toyline, but only avalible at Universal Studios. I have three pics of it. I have no intention of building one myself, I'm posting these so we have a proctical example everyone can discuss technique on...

    Here they are..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    -Skyler101
     
  14. TallDarkandDisfigured

    TallDarkandDisfigured Sr Member

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    Could you have picked something more difficult? [​IMG]
    This should prove to be very educational. Shoulda started with a mousedroid. [​IMG]
     
  15. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Well, the idea is to show how to get something like this onto paper.

    It has some great lines, and circles in the design, so I thought it would be approprete...


    As people throw things out, I'll try them nd post the results. If people acctually draw stuff up themselves, I'll host it to...

    -Skyler101
     
  16. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    No one interested in helping some people extend their blueprinting skills?

    -skyler101
     
  17. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    IÂ’ve done a few blueprints before. You can see a few examples here (http://www.geocities.com/mhtaylor67/cad/index.htm - use the menu on the left). IÂ’ll try and document my technique on the vehicle above. Here's the blueprint I knocked up in a couple of hours:

    [attachmentid=501]

    HereÂ’s my process for getting started:

    Blueprint & Drawing scales
    ==================

    1. Print out a picture of the aspect of the item you want to model as large as you can whilst maintaining the aspect ratio.

    2. Take one item for which you know its real world dimensions – as this is just an example let’s assume the height of this vehicle is 7 feet.

    3. Measure this on your print out – in my case it was 93mm (I measure in metric and draw in imperial – this way it is easier to keep the drawing scale and the print out scale separate in my head.)

    4. Calculate the scale of your print out – 7ft = 93mm therefore 1mm = (7*12)/93 = 0.9 give or take a few decimal places. Therefore, 1mm I measure on my printout will be drawn as 0.9 of an inch on my blueprint.

    5. You now apply this calculation to everything you measure. I start with the main dimensions of the item; just like scratch building, outline the major structure first. The first dimension I need is the length of the item (I have the height). I measure the printout item length at 185mm. To apply the ratio I worked out above to this measurement I multiply it by 0.9. According to my calculations this makes the item 166.5 inches long (nearly 14 feet).

    6. With these measurements I can start drawing the item in my CAD program.


    IÂ’ll try to do some more later if youÂ’re interested - Martin
     
  18. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    I seem to have a superhero tallent for threads; a thread is bumbling along quite nicely, one post from me and its dead. Anyways, I'll continue posting on the subject even if no one's listening.

    Boxes & Angles
    ===========

    1. In my CAD program I start to layout the main structure. I start by drawing the waistline of the vehicle so I draw a line 166.5 inches. Usually I draw my blueprints 1:1 as IÂ’m drawing hand props. As this is a bigger item this scale probably wouldnÂ’t be the best choice here but as most of us are drawing smaller items I will continue this example at 1:1 scale CAD.

    [attachmentid=826]

    2. Using the same calculation as before applied to measurements of the print out I know that the vehicle is 33” tall above the waistline and 20.7” below. I draw these dimensions on my blueprint.

    [attachmentid=827]

    3. Unfortunately props are rarely simple boxes. We have all sorts of angles to take into account. Lets take the nose of the vehicle. We now know where the roofline is (33” above the waist) but how do we draw that sloping nose? I draw on my printout. Take a ruler and extend the roofline. With pen and ruler also extend the line of the flat front of the vehicle. Now measure from where these 2 lines intersect to where the roof begins and apply the scale ratio to this measurement. I calculate this to be 32.4”.

    4. Draw this line on your blueprint.

    [attachmentid=828]

    5. Now draw the slope by drawing a horizontal line snapped to the ends of the line you have drawn.

    [attachmentid=829]

    6. You can now erase the upright and horizontal lines to leave the sloped nose of the vehicle.

    [attachmentid=830]

    7. Continue to the rest of the outline of the body of the vehicle using the same technique; draw measurement lines on your printout, put them on you blueprint, draw intersecting lines for the sloping surfaces and then remove the measuring lines from your blueprint. The following 2 pictures show the blueprint with the measuring lines I needed to draw this shape in place and with the measurement lines removed.

    [attachmentid=831]

    [attachmentid=832]
     
  19. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    This thread is not dead... I just have not been online! LOL

    -Skyler101
     
  20. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    I had an email for someone who made some great blueprints and instructions. Right now Im away using a remote terminal, but I will post them when I get back home...

    -Skyler101
     
  21. GuntahKela

    GuntahKela Sr Member

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    I use large sizes of trash paper lying on the floor to draw all dimentions that I pull out of the computer by scaling with a digital, scanned ruler. By using separated layers, I get to manipulate the on-screen ruler, zoom in and get almost perfect dimensions of most props. That's the way my GB props and cane of the Emperor were scaled out.
     
  22. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    OK...

    I was contacted by Mike Rush, who emailed me his kick * blueprints.. Here they are!

    [​IMG]

    Mike has yet to post on the baord, but maybe we can get him to interact directly!

    Mike was also nice enough to email me how he made these plans, so here is his words directly!

    --------

    Okay, here goes - don't know if I can successfully write any of it down
    though!

    ***

    I put the scans of the toy into Photoshop and adjusted them so that they
    were all the same apparent scale, and laid them out into end, side and
    plan views. This entire image was then moved into Illustrator.
    (Specifically, the bitmap was placed on its own locked layer underneath
    the 'work' layer so that it could easily be turned off and on to check
    progress.) I've used a few CAD programs but I prefer Illustrator every
    time.

    The scans were a great starting point but couldn't be taken too
    literally as many things didn't line up with each other. Why not?
    Perspective. Perspective is the enemy, because things further away from
    the eye look smaller (for example the two blisters on the cab roof).
    Don't be fooled! As long as you cross-check each thing you draw with the
    other two views, you should have no problem. I learned to draw
    orthographic projections years ago at school (on paper!) so I'm used to
    this.

    To begin with you have no set dimensions. Beginning with the side I drew
    over some of the major shapes. (The landram is forgiving because it has
    some good clear horizontals and right angles, which helps.)

    When the side view is done you have set down the lengths and heights.
    Using the lengths from that view, I drew a plan by adding the widths
    from the scan. Now you have three dimensions for things. Therefore you
    can fairly simply make up the end view. The way it works is, if you have
    two views of something you can extrapolate the third view without too
    much trouble. Take the roof turret for example: I had a side view and a
    plan view but no end view, so I used the side and the plan to work it
    out.

    Once the three views are established you can go to town adding the
    details. The more you do, the easier it gets - because everything
    relates to everything else in a certain way. If you've made a mistake,
    it will show up almost automatically because you will find you won't be
    able to add it to all three views. How much detail you add is a matter
    of choice. (I left the panel lines off because I couldn't see some of
    them accurately enough.)

    The isometric view is done because apart from finishing off any set of
    plans nicely, it also acts as a final check to see if everything you
    drew 'works' in 3D. This was also done by hand, not using a 3D program.

    As for scale, it really makes no difference because you can draw at one
    scale and change it later (the beauty of computers). I drew these plans
    over the scans, so that's what size they are currently. If I now wanted
    to make them a specific scale, I would just need one measurement from
    the original toy, and I could then scale my drawings up or down until
    they matched. If I knew a measurement from the real landram I could use
    that. In general I draw things like props 1:1 (within reason), or if
    it's something bigger like a vehicle, I use 1:10.

    ---------

    I beleive one of our own will also have a step by step guide on how he builds his plans, comming up soon!

    Excelsior!!!! (Man, I wish Stan Lee would create some other cool sayings!)

    -Skyler101
     
  23. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Maybe this thread IS dead????

    -Skyler101
     
  24. SinkTube Jedi

    SinkTube Jedi Well-Known Member

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    Nice thread guys, now do the Valley Forge from Silent Running or the Ark from Starlost!
     
  25. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    </SPAN><TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>SinkTube Jedi wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>Nice thread guys, now do the Valley Forge from Silent Running or the Ark from Starlost!</TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE><SPAN CLASS=$row_color>

    LOL... You do the Valley FOrge, and I will do the Ark...

    lol

    -Skyler101
     
  26. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    Doesn't seem like there's a lot of point in me continuing to post my blueprint technique as Mike's results are much better than mine. - Martin
     
  27. Poseidon11

    Poseidon11 New Member

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    </SPAN><TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>WanObiJedi wrote:<HR></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS=$row_color>Doesn't seem like there's a lot of point in me continuing to post my blueprint technique as Mike's results are much better than mine. - Martin</TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE><SPAN CLASS=$row_color>

    Your technique is valuable to me. I have started using DeltaCad and find it very user friendly. There are quite a few things I need to learn how to do. I don't see anywhere yet on how to make invisible lines.

    I have a Mace Windu VD saber print I'm working on. I'm having trouble figuring out the measurement for the tapered pommel area.

    If anybody uses DeltaCad and wants to give it a shot, I can email what I have done so far.
     
  28. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Wan..

    Please continue. You both have different ways of getting the same results. Does not mean that one is better than the other.

    I too have started with DeltaCAD and have learnt more in your post than reading the manual for a month! [​IMG]

    -Skyler101
     
  29. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    As someone is finding this useful I will continue. This installment is to put the tracks on the elevation I had started previously:

    The World isnÂ’t Flat
    ====================

    1. WeÂ’ve drawn outlines with straight edges. How about circles? The tracks will be our example here.

    2. First, on my printout I draw a rectangle that encompasses the tracks. Using the same techniques as before I put this shape on my blueprint.
    [​IMG]

    3. I draw a centerline for the rectangle and squares for tracks and wheels at each end of the tracks. I also find the center point of each square.
    [​IMG]

    4. I can now draw the circle for the outside diameter of the tracks.
    [​IMG]

    5. I take the thickness of the tracks and draw another circle.
    [​IMG]

    6. And repeat for the track teeth.
    [​IMG]

    7. I can now draw horizontal lines for the tracks and teeth.
    [​IMG]

    8. I can now remove superfluous lines.
    [​IMG]

    9. Using the same box and draw circles technique I can add the other wheels.

    10. The following two pictures show the wheels and tracks completed with and without measurement lines. For the sake of convenience I am not going to add teeth to the tracks.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  30. gavidoc

    gavidoc Well-Known Member

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    nice work guys.

    I on the other hand do most of my work in 3d since that's what I do at my job.

    The way I go about doing things is as follows:

    I'm gonna use the Han SOlo Blaster mount as my example.

    1. First thing I do is find all pictures I can of the item in question (blaster) for references. Problem is that we don't know the exact dimensions used but we do know some of the dimensions for the mauser, scope, etc.

    2. Problem with photos is distortion, so keeping that in mind, I look for a side, front, and top view and bring the images into Adobe Illustrator and rescale the images to be full size in relation to that one point that I know of. In the blaster case, I know that the scope is 7/8" and the Mauser magazine cover is 1.5" (I've got a real mauser to compare to).

    3. When I rescale the image to one setting, the other isn't exactly right. Say, I scaled the scope to 7/8 but the magazine well was 1.495" due to distortion. NO biggie at all.

    4. Once I've got my basic measurements chicken scratched on a piece of paper, I open up my cad program (Solidworks 2001 Plus) and begin drawing all the components in 2d fashion. One piece at a time.

    5. Once all the parts are drawn and extruded (turned into a 3d part), I assemble, and then render the images in the same views I have of the real things. I superimpose and make sure that everything lines up.If it lines up on the screen to what I made, then I make an initial prototype.

    6. I compare the prototype to the photos, to the drawings and tweak little measurements here and there. Once done, I make
    then make a final prototype to make sure it is right. When I say final prototype, I treat this one like it's the real deal so that if everything works, then it is the final part I'm going to make.



    The nice thing about creating in 3d is that you can then get all of your 2d drawings directly off of the 3d part. INstead of drawing 3 different views of somethign and then doing an isometric view to see that the parts work, you create the part 3d first (if it doesn't fit together, you can tell right away).

    Example pics:

    original
    [​IMG]

    Mine
    [​IMG]

    3d render
    [​IMG]

    2d Drawings

    [​IMG]
     
  31. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    The next elevation
    ==================

    1. Just as we printed out then side elevation we now need to print out the head on shot of the vehicle to work on.

    2. Again, weÂ’re assuming the vehicle is 7 feet from the bottom of the tracks to the top of the roof. Measuring my printout that is 108mm. Therefore, 1mm on my printout equals (7*12)/108 = 0.78 inches

    3. LetÂ’s start with the waistline again. I want the front elevation to start 2 scale feet from the completed side elevation so I draw a temporary line 2 feet horizontally from the waist and vertically to mark the height.
    [​IMG]

    4. Using my measurement and calculation I determine that the vehicle is 82 inches wide. I draw this one my blueprint.
    [​IMG]

    5. As we already have nearly half the measurements we need from our side elevation we can transfer these to the head on view with temporary lines and fill in the rest to get the main body shape.
    [​IMG]

    6. Using the same method of transferring measurements from the side elevation and calculating dimensions from the head on print out we can add the tracks.
    [​IMG]

    7. Finally, we remove the temporary lines and add some missing details.
    [​IMG]
     
  32. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    Turning the corner
    ==================

    1. Time for the birds eye view of the vehicle. We actually have all the measurements we need so it is a mater of transferring them from the two previous elevations. To do this we need a 45-degree to ‘bounce’ the head on dimensions. Again, lets have the new elevation 2 feet from the side elevation so we need to draw a temporary line 2 feet up from the extreme top left of the side elevation.

    2. We now draw out bounce line from this.
    [​IMG]

    3. Now lets draw the temporary lines we need from the head on view to the bounce line.
    [​IMG]

    4. Using the bounce line we can now turn the dimensions from the head on elevation so that they are of use to birdÂ’s eye elevation.
    [​IMG]

    5. Using temporary lines we now transfer the dimensions from the side on view to birdÂ’s eye view.

    6. We can now ink in the birdÂ’s eye view outline.
    [​IMG]

    7. The remove the temporary lines.
    [​IMG]

    8. To add the window detail weÂ’ll bounce twice; once of the temporary bounce line and once of the nose of the side elevation.
    [​IMG]

    9. We can then ink in the windscreen and remove the temporary lines to complete the birdÂ’s eye view.
    [​IMG]
     
  33. WanObiJedi

    WanObiJedi New Member

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    Using the techniques described previously you should be able to guess how weÂ’re going to add the remaining elevations. The following picture shows my progress without comments, as I am doing nothing new but am simply transferring measurements from one elevation to another and inking in the outlines.
    [​IMG]

    To get the right side elevation weÂ’ll use the mirror trick as this is a simple example. Find the half way point between the left side elevation drawing and where you want the right side elevation to go. Draw your mirror line.
    [​IMG]

    Copy and mirror the left hand elevation.
    [​IMG]

    Erase your remaining temporary drawing lines, add a title and any dimensions that you want displayed and youÂ’re done. Of course this was a very simple example with many details omitted but I hope you get some idea of the technique that I use and find useful. Please bear in mind that I am not a trained draftsman or graphic artist of any kind and I use the cheapest CAD program available so someone with better tools and training may be able to provide better techniques that I can.
    [​IMG]
     
  34. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Wow.. You guys are answering a hell of alot of questions...

    I really think this thread needs to be archived once we are done...

    -Skyler101
     
  35. thesyfyguy

    thesyfyguy Active Member

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    I'm getting ready to start a scratch build of a Star Gate, with lights and sounds and special effects, also semi-working staff and zat gun. need input, detailed photos, and any thing else wold be welcomed. Have already started on the mechanics.
     
  36. Knowone251

    Knowone251 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ok...but why did you post in a thread that's from 2002 about generic blueprint design? Also try this link
    stargate - Google Search
     
  37. Rylo

    Rylo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    UGH...just noticed the age of this thread that someone dug up...disregard.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  38. epilepticsquirl

    epilepticsquirl Sr Member

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    I do believe this qualifies for some necro thread of the year award.
     
  39. Rylo

    Rylo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, good god! :facepalm

     
  40. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Hey, I'm still working on my Blueprints....
    .. what does that tell ya! :)

    Nice to know the inffo here was not lost....

    -Skyler101
     
  41. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    And Rylo....

    I always want to know what your sharing... :)

    -Skyler101
     
  42. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    I don't care how much time passes, I am still trying to get my head around blueprinting an idea or model.

    Was wondering if anyone has used sketch up or some other 3d program to generate pals for building their props?
    I know some people use illustrator or inkspace, all great programs.

    It would be great to share some of the methods that some of the great members here have used. I found this great video by my friend and RPF member Matt Munson made when he was building his Bat Grapple gun. Amazing way to break down some sizing and get something to work with.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f00Y7rvZ-74&list=PLBFD243BDF2E75BAA

    Share the love...

    -Skyler101
     
  43. OldSkoolEffects

    OldSkoolEffects Well-Known Member

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    I design most of my stuff in CATIA v5 these days, and will either work directly from my model or output to drawings when it comes to starting the actual build.

    When you're working with assemblies, a good 3D model will help you avoid clashes and inconsistencies between parts.
     
  44. Michael Bergeron

    Michael Bergeron Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    As you saw when we worked together I use Illustrator. :)
     
  45. robinhood jw

    robinhood jw Member

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    I haven't read the full thread above in detail, but here's what I do. I'm lucky in that I have access to AutoCAD. I usually dig online to find a photo that's as close as possible to a straight-on side or top view. Then I insert into CAD and scale the photo up/down until it matches a known (or reasonably guessed) dimension. Then I draw it out by "tracing" over the inserted image. I turn off the image to print it out to-scale.






    I don't want to come off as snarky, but I do want to say a quick word about the term "blueprint". I understand that it is part of the American vernacular to mean "construction plans", but it's actually something different. It's the technical name for an ammonia and light/heat based drawing reproduction process that hasn't been widely used in close to 20 years (if not longer). Back before large-scale xerox type copiers were cheap and common, this was how all drawings were reproduced in the construction industry. It was a slow and smelly process (ask me how I know).

    The reason I bring this up is because if you go into a print shop today and ask for blueprints, they are either going to a) give you a dumb look, b) just laugh outright, or c) politely inform you they no longer have blueprint machines.

    Call them whatever you want when you refer to them amongst yourselves, but be careful what you ask for if you need to get something printed.




    ETA: Ok ... I just looked back and realized how old the first post in this thread is - 2002. Ooops. The last time I worked anywhere with a functioning blueline machine was 2003 - and it was already considered kind of a relic by then. My comment is still valid for today, but maybe not so much back when the thread started.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014
  46. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    No problems robinhood... :)

    The end result is that I would like to have a game plan when putting something together, and blueprinting/sketching/doodling/or whatever you want to call it, is a great way to get an idea of where tier going without having to waste material and hours....

    - Skyler101
     

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