How about a group effort making the Hugo movie Note Book

For now I was thinking just the faces till we get all 15. There looks to be drawings on all the pages on the left as well, but those will have to be the new ones we make, being only glimpses of them in the movie.
But if you fell like it that’s cool too, I would maybe try to post the left and right separately so folks could copy them easier to their books maybe mark them right and left, IE "c31Left and c31right". Remember there will be 3 pages for every face so that would be maybe, c31left1, c31left2, c31left3. What do you think we should do?

All comments would be welcomed, even if you’re not drawing you might have a better idea then mine.

Also could still use some different ideas about on how to make the outside of the note book as well. I will probably order mine next weekend unless someone comes up with a cheaper and or better way.
 
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Here is c23-b left and right. you need to add the shadows when copyed, and look at the screen cap there is both black and blue ink on the left pic.
 
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For now I was thinking just the faces till we get all 15. There looks to be drawings on all the pages on the left as well, but those will have to be the new ones we make, being only glimpses of them in the movie.
But if you fell like it that’s cool too, I would maybe try to post the left and right separately so folks could copy them easier to their books maybe mark them right and left, IE "c31Left and c31right". Remember there will be 3 pages for every face so that would be maybe, c31left1, c31left2, c31left3. What do you think we should do?

All comments would be welcomed, even if you’re not drawing you might have a better idea then mine.

Also could still use some different ideas about on how to make the outside of the note book as well. I will probably order mine next weekend unless someone comes up with a cheaper and or better way.


That sounds good to me. I had started on 31, got to work on the left side and realized I would have to redraw that entire part basically.

I'll start back at the first of the week, when I have some free time again.
 
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Here is c11. You will need to add shadows. Had a :facepalm moment, if you are a perfectionist, the # 8 in the middle of the mechanical drawing is supposed to be an "B". Then there is the dotted line around it is oval. This was the last thing I drew, and it kind of flattened out there at the end on the top right. I plain to fix this when I put it in my book but for now it should do ya, for a tracer.
Next I am going to work on c13.
 
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This is from the book. I thought it would be cool to use for the front page, since you don't see the front page in the movie. The skirting of the table top is just a strait pace of wood in the movie, modified as you see fit.
 
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here is c15
The sideways writing on the left is done in blue, I t looks like in the whole book all the blue righting may be where he went back later and added notes or drawings in blue. I was looking at the video and it looks like to me he is using pencil not pen. So when you make your copy into your book, to be more accurate it should be done in black and blue pencil. This will make the shading much easier.
 
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Here is c19 left and right.
You will need to add shadows. On left the drawing is in black and the words are in blue. On the right the drawing is blue and the cross with the numbers is black. Had to fake the left side of the right pic due to bad scan, I guess it will due, you can always modify it when you copy it in your book as you like.
 
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Here is c7 and c8 add shadows to both.
:cry Not happy at all with c8, I could not get the gears in this one drawn and the keys did not come out as good as I would of liked. I substitute some words for the gears. It looks to me that someone else drew this page in the move book, the stile is different, not as accurate, and in modern day pencil. Also this is the only one that I have not been able to see the part in the real one? If some one could redraw this one I would be ecstatic.:facepalm
 
Here is c-20 left and right, need to add shadows to both. ( I think from now on we will assume that all need shadows, check pic's) Any way the left is all blue and as for the right the words are blue the drawing is black.
 
Well I had to break down and spend the money on the stinken tape for a stinkin 4" piece. The cheapest I could find it was $17 delivered. So now what to do with the other 14 yards 2 foot and 8 inch's.

So any way If you are making one of these journals PM me and i will give you my address, then send a self addressed envelop and I will send you an 10" piece until its gone no charge. Its the good stuff cloth tape used by the Library's to repair books. I should get in in the mail any day now. When I do I will post the how to post I promised, I have the rest of the blank book done.
 
here is c16 and c18. both all black, Well I managed to delete the original screen cap on c16 but here is "16.jepg" it is the one I made in photo shop for the templet. working on c9
 
Time for the notebook. You need to read post #1 for the supply’s I used. This is how I did it I am sure there are better ways to do it, but here goes.
Frist cut out the pocket in the back.

Next you need to clamp the book to gather to put the red splatters on the sides. I am not excited about how it came out but it will have to do, I should have practiced on something else first. But I splattered water color paint on it, off the pocket that I took out see Pic. You might try using a red pen and taping just the tip over and over. Try it on something else first. Let us know if you have better luck then I did so others might benefit.

Next open the book and work your finger slowly down the inside of the spine about half way from the top and the bottom until it is detached from the cover, see pic. Keep working the rest of the front and back papers till the whole thing comes off from the cover, take your time try not to rip these sheets you need them.

Next you need to glue the cover paper and the end sheets together, this will stiffen up the cover when done. I used Elmer’s all-purpose glue stick, I have worked with this before and once it sets it stays and it’s easy to work with, also it will not wrinkle the paper like regular Elmer’s can.

While that dries, time to do the cover. Cut the cover over sized, next there are 3 folds in the cover horizontally. You need to do this before you glue it together. I used a ruler on the back and folded over almost all the way. You do not want a crease, but warn look, see pic. Also you need to bend it in the middle a copal of times as if it’s been flipped through a lot, not too much, remember you do not want a nice straight crisp line just well used look. When the books done and after you are done drawing in it, I plane to flip through mine a lot to get a well-worn look, but you do not want to do that till after you have finished drawing in it.

Next glue the back cover on, working the two to gather all over, leaving overlap all the way around. Once it has dried for about ½hr you can glue on the cover. DO NOT GLUE THE SPINE. That would cause the cover to fail later. After it dries trim the cover down to the book size.

I then hit mine on the lower right corner to match the move book them rubbed the cover front and back over a rough surface lightly to help the raised cress weather, I used my cutting block that has cuts in it from my knife blade. Next I put on the tape see pic. Then weathered it by lightly rubbing it with 150 grit sand paper to give that warn look, especially on the corners. Not too much you not want to weaken it. Time to draw in the pic’s,

I tried making the rubber band using brown show polish, and it looked good at first but then flacked off, I will keep trying on that.
 
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