Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, The

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That's the best I can do for the rest because it's part of the hardcover of the book :/ So I think I'll try to take photos with a good camera in the near future :)
 
Re: [The Hobbit] Three Elven Blades

Dude when I first saw them I wasn't imprest but they are actually pretty amazing good job!
 
(sorry guys had to put the Erebor map down because the friend who gave it to me doesn't want me to put it up for dowload..)
Does anyone have bigger pics of this ? It's the Baggins family tree from the Lord of the tings films so it's a different one from the Hobbit films.

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Does anyone know what the correct size is for the map when you figure in the Hobbit/Dwarf scale?

I thought I remember hearing the human to hobbit scale conversion was 2/3. I once did the math on it using Elijah Woods' height compared to Frodo's height (based on reliable sources but I forgot where) and indeed the 2/3 conversion worked.

So I used the 2/3 scale on the map using the size of the replica map offered by WETA. The conversion had the map coming out to a tiny bit under the size of a piece of standard paper (8.5 x 11). In fact, if you figured in what the map's size was prior to worn edges. Once you weather the edges, it should come out about right. Here is one I printed on 8.5x11 water color paper, then weathered the edges and creased/folded as appropriate.

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With that being said, in the movie when Gandalf was handling the map at Bilbo's table, it looked a little bigger, but maybe not. So any one know the size of the actual prop used for that scene?
 
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The 2/3 rule seems to be legit. As far as scale goes your map is probably accurate but I think it would be neat to have a slightly larger one I guess the "human sized" version haha
 
The font of the contract looks simular to PR Celtic Narrow.

View attachment 243912

Here is my PDF of the Contratc.
I worked over 4 Weeks on it but it's not finished yet.
Hope you liked it.

see you later

Niklas

hey dude any updates on this :)
would love to see the full one :p

for anybody else that is interested:
anyway i think i am going to continue working on his version anyway and i will put it up once it is done ( if i ever feel like it is XD)
 
Sorry I don't have a good camera to take high-res pics.. And the last page is glued to the hard cover of the book and it's impossible to press the hard cover against the sanner's screen that's why I can't get a good scan..

The book is "The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, Chronicles: Art and Design" and it's still available on Weta's website ! : https://www.wetanz.com/chronicles-art-and-design-2/
 
Here's a higher res screenshot from the blu-ray:
Auction sign.png
I made a replica a while ago, but it's not very accurate
Auction sign replica.png
 
Here's a higher res screenshot from the blu-ray:
I made a replica a while ago, but it's not very accurate

Thanks. Yours actually isn't that inaccurate. The background does IMO look a little fake but as for the writing, it looks as I'd have expected it to look without any weathering or wear. Anyway, I used your higher resolution photo and cropped the edges so that it could be printed just be printed like that, then removed the nails and wooden thing.
Auction sign_higher resolution_Cropped_Nails-Removed.png
I also did an un-cropped version for those, like myself, who use the edges as a guide for weathering.
Auction sign_higher resolution Uncropped nails removed.png

Thanks again for the higher res screenshot!
 
Not just posting to bump, but using a previously-posted copy version of the original map I’ve been making a weathered version of Thror’s map. I made some aged paper sheets out of some normal 8.5 x 11 printer paper to make a treasure map for my niece (a treasure hunt around our house) and decided to print the map out on one of the sheets. Used a mix of strong coffee, earl grey tea, and some cinnamon extract to give off a better scent.
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Unfortunately on the first try there were ink smudges so I tried to retry by aging AFTER printing, but even after waiting over a week the aging process still washed away some of the ink and turned the red ink to gray. I traced over that with a fine point red sharpie pen and plan to trace back over the rest with black ink.
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Before that I’m adding in the moon runes with some glow in the dark paint that blends in very well and looks almost completely invisible without a black light.
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I tried some different things for the runes (highlighters, detergent, and some different paints) and settled on this paint since it seems to match the film runes the most while staying as invisible as possible.
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I’ll post the final results when I’m done. Planning to put this in a shadow box with a UV led strip in the inside edges and the quote “Not all who wander are lost” on the glass.
 
So the UV-lit shadow box will have to wait a bit for financial reasons (mainly difficulties trying to get hired in IT with a Bachelors degree but no prior professional IT experience) but I have the map finished at least. The paint left a slight gloss texture where it was painted on, so I decided to give the map a light coating of gloss Mod Podge to hide it a little better as well as to give it a better look than plain paper. Here it is under normal light and with the runes lit with a UV light.

Thror's Map - Normal.jpeg
Thror's Map - UV Lit.jpeg
 
Nice job! Your map looks great!

Thanks, I like how it turned out but still ended up tweaking it a bit more. The only things I didn't really like were the back of the map (there was a little ink bleed-through in places and the aging color was much lighter than the front) and the paper still felt too flimsy even after the Mod Podge. Unfortunately my idea to fix this almost ruined it.
I used some more concentrated "aging solution" and brushed an extremely light coating over the back so it wouldn't soak through and affect the ink on the front. Once that dried, and still didn't cover the bleed-through, I decided to just Mod Podge the back as well to finish it off. This is where things went bad.
To make a long story short, I learned that Mod Podge soaks in and becomes incredibly stick almost immediately and can cause paper to start peeling.
I almost broke down at this point, but luckily I was able to scrape and peel the sections off enough so that you couldn't see a difference from the front. To fix the now thinner and more flimsy map, I used another sheet of aged paper that was about the same shade as the front of the map and stuck that to the back with Mod Podge, then once it was dry applied a thin layer of Mod Podge over the back.
The end result is that the front of the map looks exactly the same, but the back now looks more accurate and the thicker map almost feels like it could be a thin sheet of leather.
 
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