High Quality R2-D2 in 1/18, 1/24, 1/48, 1/72, 1/96

Polygonix

Active Member
I'm finally at a point in my life that I have time to do some model building after a 20 year hiatus. I purchased a bunch of kits and some upgrades from Shapeways. I wasn't really thrilled with the parts from Shapeways, not that they weren't good for 3D prints but they didn't match the quality of the Bandai kits that I bought and the details were exaggerated presumably to print properly. So of course, the only logical solution was to build my own 3D printer from scratch that would be designed specifically for miniature printing. I can now print parts that are basically indistinguishable from the Bandai kits. Let me know what you think.

I apologize for the picture quality. I don't have a dedicated macro lens yet so I was kind of 'winging it' with $15 lens extensions. Also the prints have a very interesting iridescent moire pattern on their surface when they come out of the printer that can't be felt but doesn't help with pictures. These pictures are straight off the printer with no sanding. A light coat of Tamiya Fine Surfacing Primer makes the surface super smooth and ready to paint. There are no layer lines to speak of because it is a continuous printing process. Hopefully in the relatively near future I will get a nice macro lens but until then...

I modeled the R2-D2 in Lightwave and used a lot of different sources for reference (mainly the full size builds found online). Everything is to the proper scale and depth as best I could manage and I feel like it looks like a much larger model then it actually is. I made it in a few pieces so it could be articulated and lit. I printed it in 1/18 and 1/24 articulated with a rotating head. The smaller 1/48, 1/72 and 1/96 I printed as one piece as they were too small to easy assemble otherwise. The second to last picture has a 1/12 Bandai R2 for scale along with the other sizes and the 1/48 has a penny underneath it.

I have a lot of other models that I have been working on for dioramas and I figured an R2 in various scales would come in handy and be a good test for the printer.

TLDR 3D printed R2's in various scales using a different 3D printing process.
 

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Jaw dropped. I have so many questions. What type of printer is it exactly? In the really small ones I can see the moire effect you mention and the tiny layers in the legs which make me think it's a fantasticly well built FDM printer with a 0,15mm nozzle like the one from E3D. However - those cables at the feet make me question my sanity. Please show us your printer and tell us more. The results are fantastic and you should be proud:)

EDIT - just saw in another thread you were talking about UV cured resin so that answers a few questions...

Also an observation - your R2 looks great, but if my eyes are not deceiving me I am noticing some segmentation in the dome on the 1/18 and 1/24 scale models. It's a pet pieve I have when I see models that have all the work put in, but have a segmented tube or sphere on account of too few polys. I only noted this because everything else is perfect, but then again it's only evident in the largest models and in your pictures. Maybe it's not really evident in person when the model isn't zoomed in by way of photo?
 
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Thanks for being kind! I have been working on this project for a long time.

There isn't any segmentation on the domes that is visible, that is just the way the light plays off the weird moire, light interference, they are perfectly smooth to the touch; the closest I can come up with is a tiger's eye type effect. Its very hard to photograph these because of that. For reference the 1/24 has a dome diameter 19.75mm and has 1024 polygons in diameter.

Its a resin printer using a laser to cure the resin. The optics pathway is unique and the spot size of the laser is 10x-ish smaller than a Formlabs or Shapeways FUD printer. I am probably, realistically limited by the size of the wavelength of light I am using. The primary things that are different mechanically between this and a 'normal' one is that that its a continuous pull instead of discrete layers so there are no layer lines to speak of and its a top down style. The trick is a very controlled environment and the special sauce is in the resin that has a unique makeup. I presume the moire pattern that is showing up is due to minute variations in light output from the laser or micro-oscillations of the z-axis itself. It surprised me when I first started getting good prints. I'm hoping to be able to afford a better lens in the near future; they look much better in real life because my eyes at least can't resolve some of the details on the smalller ones without magnification.

Getting the cables that are the proper scale to actually print properly (reliably) on the 1/96 scale was when I cracked open the 'champagne' so to speak.
 
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The Future is Now!
Fabulous work. Also, I suspect you are a professional in this particular arena...
Regards, Robert
Thank you! No I'm not a professional in that area, just been playing around with 3D modeling software since I was a teenager. My wife runs a couple Etsy stores where we sell other random stuff we make but nothing like this until now.

I've been working on some other models that I will post as soon as I get the 'rough drafts' done. I am working on a 1/72 | 1/44 Cloud Car, 1/72 | 1/44 Scimitar (Sith Infiltrator), 1/72 | 1/44 Sandcrawler and 1/72 | 1/44 Khetanna (Sail Barge). Essentially I'm just trying to fill in the Bandai gaps :)

I'm not the greatest painter but I figured I need to get my skills up so is there any reason not to use an airbrush at least for the base coats? Also I was having trouble finding the appropriate colors, accurate colors for the Scimitar and Cloud Car, is there a compiled resource for accurate colors?
 
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