Here Goes Something Awesome!

I went with all 3mm leds for the whites, since they were the same mcd. I've also decided to do it a bit differently than ThomasModels did it. Firstly, he put all those leds in there and then softened them considerably with the resistor values he used.

I'm waiting for my leds to get here from hong kong, but I'm going a different route, the same I used for the mods I did to the bandai, which is put the windows in, and then make a lightpath from clear epoxy. I have to think this will signficantly reduce the total number of needed LEDs. the ones I got were 4000 mcd, so should be plenty for basic window lights.

Someone over at hobbytalk was printing "rooms" on transparency to put between the lights and the windows. Interesting idea, i just don't know if there's enough size in the window ports for that to even matter.

Great job on the buildup so far, guys.
 
Strands have 70 bulbs and are 310 inches (25.8 ft.) long. Length from plug to 1st LED is 12". Bulbs are 4" apart. Distance from last LED to end connector is 4". Each LED is 1.16" tall.

1.16" tall is pretty tall no?
 
Originally posted by 12Rogues@Jun 11 2005, 02:21 AM
Strands have 70 bulbs and are 310 inches (25.8 ft.) long. Length from plug to 1st LED is 12". Bulbs are 4" apart. Distance from last LED to end connector is 4". Each LED is 1.16" tall.

1.16" tall is pretty tall no?
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yep, but they can still be positioned behind windows and you can use a clear epoxy to difuse the light evenly, just like Bandai did.
 
Well gang, the last of the main hull is done, and the model's been torn down for lighting. The nav dish has been finished, with a nice clear coat to dull the dish, and the neck is ready for decals. The blue swipe at the top is way too blue, so that's gonna get redone. Decaling will be done in a few days, as I complete the full lighting design. Gentlemen, I have to recomend the fine folks at Miniatronics. This company is mostly there for the train enthusiast, but as we all know, modelers get whatever they can when they can. The feature a nice selection of LEDS and incandescant lights, as well as lighting boards that simulate a number of different strobes, not to mention some adjustable ones. The only problem I'm running into is that I'm a lighting novice, so putting the volt math all together is a hassle. So I called them...and they told me how to hook it all up. So I'll be posting what we MAY use, nothing's in stone yet. Here's the pics gang..

dish1.jpg
dish2.jpg
neck.jpg
B)
 
Very cool. A friend of mine is setting his up using all EL-sheet to line the inside of the entire hull, incorporating colored paper to diffuse and add different colors where appropriate. He's only using a couple of micro LEDs for the flashing nav lights, and possibly for the deflector array.
 
Great Work, my man. I just did a side be side comparison of the filming model over at cloudster and you paint matches dead on.
 
Woo...got the leds in today. He even included 100 resistors to go with it. Just do a search on ebay for 100x leds. Very quick turnaround, I've got to say. And the leds are more than bright enough for our purposes.
 
It begins . . .
lite1.jpg

lite2.jpg
lite3.jpg


So here we go . . the lights are in their test phase, but I felt obligated to show off. I'm in the process of getting everything ready to be put in and glued shut. I'll also tell you that the lighting design consummed most of my time, so sorry on the paint job slow down. I've been able to pull off a 24 bulb/flasherboard setup for the hull, bay, dish, and nacelles. If it works, I'll be sharing with the group. I don't want to take a chance on screwing up your model, so we'll all sit back and see if I can screw up Bryan's ;) . See you soon...
 
I have a 22" TOS made by our own Jason Eaton already, Tom, so I'm rounding out the fleet. HoyShot get's all the credit for the skill...I'm just the money.
 
Bry,

Do me a favor and send me a PM on what it takes to experience such joy.

I would appreciate it.

Best.

Tom
 
I am interested to know why everyone thinks that the engine nacelles will distort the pylons over time unless the elctronics that are being added for lighting are very heavy?

I finally got my case of four the other day after doing battle with customs for them (long story, don't ask) and my intention was allways to do a total test build on one to see whether any changes needed making in my mind.
Basically I fully built the model with no painting, later on it will become a paint "mule" for trying out paint methods.

The pylons if properly glued are very stiff, especially in torque and the glued on engine nacelles don't even look like deflecting them even a little bit. The secret seems to be to make sure the alignment pins are fully glued and ALL edges are glued up tight and dry before you try to install the pylons to the hull pieces or the engines to the pylons.

The same applies to the saucer to neck to engineering hull connections. Fit them properly and glue them fully and they support the weight no problem.

Gary, please contact me about the hull parts you were after.

Cheers

Tony
 
Can do Tony. I gotta wonder just what you have planned now customs wise :)

What Glue were you using on yours? Do you think simple CA would work?

-Gary
 
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