so after ive have read 162 pages of info on this great forum and talking back and forth with brad (jedifyfe) and mark poon and airair I have since getting the first pair I have ordered 2 more pairs and I have ordered everything needed to mod these I order 2 strap kits from mark poon and im going to be using jedifyfes 9volt system with charge capability so as soon as parts start coming in I will start on these I will keep you posted on my progress thanks for all the great info and all the much needed advice
Halloween costumes air mag conversion
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So cavx has been working on an all glow in the dark mag shoe to have longer lasting lighting for the strap and sole and I saw FreddyTV post some stuff with a glow in the dark strap using tape so I ended up buying this roll of cyan blue glow in the dark tape on eBay for 5 bucks and it should be here by the weekend so I'm gonna try some stuff out and see how it looks I figure it be cool to have a cheap way to get the cyan blue color without having to do all the wiring and stuff
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cavx
Master Member
Based on my results, I will suggest that the success of GITD comes down to a few things -
1. The exact colour where the brightest GITD products are green. Aqua or cyan is part way between green and blue, so it loses some of its intensity as the wave length gets shorter.
2. How heavily it is applied and where the maximum mix amount is 15% (which I do). Paints are pre-mixed, so it then comes down to how thick the paint is applied. I think we can agree on 1.5mm being the minimum needed to produce anything half bright.
3. How much light it is exposed to and for how long to "charge" the GITD. When I took my first pics, the shoes were exposed to sunlight (not direct) for about 1 minute, then taken into a dark room. When fully "charged" the GITD will glow for up to 6 hours, however it is not bright like LEDs or even EL because it is not powered. It does however produce an even glow with no hot pots (something LEDs are well known for).
I think for a quick easy and cheap solution, the tape is cool. My rubber mix requires precise mixing, degassing and pouring. It is not really a DIY thing like the tape or paint.
I've used several different light sources to charge the GITD including the light from my projector. In the end, it still takes at least 1min exposure. You can progressively charge or even re-charge faster once the GITD is activated. Even the light on a camera phone is enough.
tubachris85x
Master Member
Someone posted a size 15 HC mags on Ebay. I'm a bit skeptical that they will actually be size 15, that this is a typo
tubachris85x
Master Member
oh gawd 15s are listed on the HC site too...
ive gone from tape to paint now becuaseof what you said im also working on glow in the dark mold for the arch shapes in the sole using latex so its malable and can be easily mixed with pigments and paint
edwinfabian
New Member
hey glasses, was just wondering, have you received/installed your strap kit yet? I'm new to the forum and am looking to convert the HC Mags like you are doing, I'm still browsing around but haven't seen a thread on how to do the strap mod yet.
Thanks!
Thanks!
ElectroDFW
Well-Known Member
Hi, Glasses...
Glad to see I'm not the only one who likes starting with this version. It neat seeing all the different approaches,
I'll definitely keep following your progress with this.
Personally, I'm fine with how the toes look, but those bulging laceways got to go, IMO. I haven't seen the vid yet on how to do that, so I ended up actually peeling the fabric back and scraping all the extra foam out. Now I just need a way to glue it back on the upper that won't bleed through or discolor it.
As well, I wanted to replace the sole LEDs with my own array, but without being able to peel the clear rubber off the sole, I was forced to cut away the bottom of the sole, along the so-called 'seam lines'. The upside is that I finally found out where they keep the battery in those things, which I think was never explicitly discussed here in the RPF.
It was done mainly for 'proof-of-concept.'
I am now researching options to use EL instead, as dozens of Jumbo blue LEDs takes up a lot of room in the sole.
But I am running short on time to complete them before I need the in working order, so we will see what happens.
Regards,
Your Friend In Time,
--Electro--
aka The Other David
PS: Does anyone know what fabric this is they use for these particular shoes? I'd like to run various test on it before I commit to doing anything on the shoes themselves.
Glad to see I'm not the only one who likes starting with this version. It neat seeing all the different approaches,
I'll definitely keep following your progress with this.
Personally, I'm fine with how the toes look, but those bulging laceways got to go, IMO. I haven't seen the vid yet on how to do that, so I ended up actually peeling the fabric back and scraping all the extra foam out. Now I just need a way to glue it back on the upper that won't bleed through or discolor it.
As well, I wanted to replace the sole LEDs with my own array, but without being able to peel the clear rubber off the sole, I was forced to cut away the bottom of the sole, along the so-called 'seam lines'. The upside is that I finally found out where they keep the battery in those things, which I think was never explicitly discussed here in the RPF.
It was done mainly for 'proof-of-concept.'
I am now researching options to use EL instead, as dozens of Jumbo blue LEDs takes up a lot of room in the sole.
But I am running short on time to complete them before I need the in working order, so we will see what happens.
Regards,
Your Friend In Time,
--Electro--
aka The Other David
PS: Does anyone know what fabric this is they use for these particular shoes? I'd like to run various test on it before I commit to doing anything on the shoes themselves.
Do you have any in progress shots from that process? I'd love to get a look inside the sides of these shoes.
-Nick
Here's a shot of my shoe when I peeled the side up one with the led off one with it on and the third pic is the electronics you can easily get to them by peeling up the insole the little re light also let's you know when they're charging these have the same electronics as the Chinese v2s
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ElectroDFW
Well-Known Member
ElectroDFW
Well-Known Member
Yes, I've looked into that, but didn't have anything that would properly disperse the light evenly throughout like I wanted.
--Electro--
crownslanes12
Member
So with the El panels in the sole, can you tap into the pre existing wires from the LEDS to power the el panels or do you need to rewire and up the power?
You have to re wire te whole shoes you can't connect anything to stock battery
crownslanes12
Member
Ok, is there a tutorial anywhere for this? On the HC mags?
crownslanes12
Member
Ok so, i have already done the Markpoon Mods and just did the toe slim, left shoe didn't go as far as the right but still made a huge difference.... I urge you all to do this steaming method! works great!
shoes so far just wanted to update on this thread so far i have done the cut and glue sock movie type slim toe, i rit dyed my soles blue to get rid of yellowing,i also added diffusion in my soles over the leds to make them look more like el, i modded my led bubbles to stick out farther and added diffusion to get the foggy look the rd mags have, i did the outrigger mod on my soles, i flattened the laces, i painted my midsoles the correct color grey and did a new splatter, and i have my el stuff coming in the mail for my new straps im making im also making a new tongue i also have the markpoon decals coming in the mail and i made a hoverboard
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