Graflex Project
- Thread starter Tetmatek
- Start date
Darth Lars
Master Member
Always nice to see. 
Where did you get those bubbles? There are unusual features at the bottom of them.
I think you should replace the philips-head screw with one with a correct screw-head.
Where did you get those bubbles? There are unusual features at the bottom of them.
I think you should replace the philips-head screw with one with a correct screw-head.
Tetmatek
Well-Known Member
I agree on the scew as well. I bought the conversion kit 2 years ago. I do not remember where I got it but I know it was not ebay. I am not a fan of the rivited grips so I am going ANH
The buble strip has cast marks at all four corners. In person it does not stand out like the photo. I will sand them out and polish the plastic so they can not be seen. Thanks for looking
Lan-Ed-Tul
Well-Known Member
Tet, which version of ANH are ya goin for?
the way you have the ears positioned to the left of the activator is the poster version, the movie version the ears are on the right side.
the way you have the ears positioned to the left of the activator is the poster version, the movie version the ears are on the right side.
Tetmatek
Well-Known Member
I am not sure; but it is easy to switch around; but most likely the movie version. Glad to here from ya Lan; hope everything is going good for you.
Lan-Ed-Tul
Well-Known Member
movie version then has the ears on the right side of activator. so all you need to do is pop off the bottom tube, take out the lil tiny screw and the plate tab it threads into, remove top tube and turn it 180 and reinsert and put back the screw and tab.
i have a diagram showing the exact proper alignments of ears to clamp if you want it.
i have a diagram showing the exact proper alignments of ears to clamp if you want it.
Last edited:
George L.
Active Member
That's a great looking drawing/diagram. Just what I was looking for before finalizing (installing grips, etc.) for my two ANH Graflex sabers.
Did you make the diagram yourself? Well, to who ever did it: thank you very much!
Was waiting for my Luxeon driver board and just got it two days ago. I got the "Crystal Focus 3.0" from Plecter Labs in France (Erv'). Man those things sold out quick!
A couple of my build notes:
For my Luxeon ANH Graflex:
1) Used my original Graflex bottom screw to hold the aluminum blade socket/Luxeon holder from the Graflex Shop.
2) The bubble strip shown here seems to be the same one I got from Charles Wallace... I might fix it but:
3) I ordered another bubble strip from Blast Tech for the Luxeon Graflex = correct. No sanding or fixing required.
For my ANH Graflex static prop/reproduction:
1) I got lucky and a fellow saber builder, Rich Green, snagged a Exactra 20 off Ebay for me. Darn calculator is perfect, hate to hack it...
2) Got some plastic "T-track" from another builder, Derek Marcum.
Still don't like any of the D-rings yet after buying 3 conversion kits. I wish I could find one like the one on my MR Luke ANH... it just looks right. I might just wind up making my own.
Nice looking build here though, Graflex housing looks in great condition. Good luck on you project! I have pictures of my build on my web site below.
Cheers.
Lan-Ed-Tul
Well-Known Member
one of the real graflexes i have DOES have a blue luxeon in the hilt, and it IS really nice too.
so yeah, yours will be awesome as well. a cyan, or green lux 3 in there would be totally cool.
so yeah, yours will be awesome as well. a cyan, or green lux 3 in there would be totally cool.
Tetmatek
Well-Known Member
Cyan is already installed as well as MR sound board. I drilled tiny holes in the bottom and covered them with the D-ring to let the sound out. Also I managed to get a very thin gap between ring and flash bottom so as not to muffle the sound; it works quite well and is as loud as it was in the MR hilt.
As usual I did my own diffuser technique in the polycarbonate blade. The biggest problem I had to overcome was getting a switch to fit under the red button so it would be activated properly. I had to actually mill the edges and bottom to get it to fit. I am useing 4AAA since real estate is at a premium trying to cram speaker, batteries, and board in without chancing pinching wires an things of that nature. I am pleased with it and will post some pics of it soon!
Darth Morbius
New Member
Hey Tet,
That saber hilt is looking great!
Good to see you here as well as other places (like TCSS)
Was the blade socket from TGS?
That saber hilt is looking great!
Good to see you here as well as other places (like TCSS)
Was the blade socket from TGS?
Lan-Ed-Tul
Well-Known Member
i used a micro switch i got from a electronics online store.
i taped the conections for no shortin out, and placed it under the red button.
so when i push the already there red button it hits the microswitch and turns it on.
mine has a hasbro board in there for sound, and also runs the lux blue led.
i also run AAA batts, and have a 3/4 space between the speaker and the end, which like you, i drilled sound holes in, and its louder than a MR is.
like i found out on the ultrasound board, i barely got anything volume wise from that premium speaker Tim sells, i scavenged a hasbro speaker for that one, and its ten times louder.
sound volume wise, my hasbro gut and US board built sabers, completely drown out a stock MR saber.
what speaker you usin? Tims? or a better one?
i taped the conections for no shortin out, and placed it under the red button.
so when i push the already there red button it hits the microswitch and turns it on.
mine has a hasbro board in there for sound, and also runs the lux blue led.
i also run AAA batts, and have a 3/4 space between the speaker and the end, which like you, i drilled sound holes in, and its louder than a MR is.
like i found out on the ultrasound board, i barely got anything volume wise from that premium speaker Tim sells, i scavenged a hasbro speaker for that one, and its ten times louder.
sound volume wise, my hasbro gut and US board built sabers, completely drown out a stock MR saber.
what speaker you usin? Tims? or a better one?
George L.
Active Member
I'm also using a switch under the original Graflex red button. I'ts a small pushbutton type with a nice snap action. I can post a source/part number if you guys want.
Also, using Erv's Crystal Focus 3.0 card, I have no volume issues with the speaker that came from Erv. Right now it's driving a Luxeon III cyan at 1 amp.
I also just got 2 each 7.4 volt 2200mAh Li-ion battery packs, however they will not fit in the hilt! Darn it, should have double checked the width! I'm an engineer and may split the packs to make them "stacked" intead of side-by-side. There is a small PC board in there and will need to also be relocated. The driver board sure likes the Li-ion and the higher voltage as I was only using 4 AA batteries before as the sound is louder, the blade flickers more rapidly, etc.
Any of you have pictures of the holes in the bottom of your Graflex for the speaker, along with the D-ring? I have a picture of a Ultra Saber's Luke ANH rear end. That's going to be the hardest part, drilling into a REAL Graflex, but needs to be done.
Cheers...
Also, using Erv's Crystal Focus 3.0 card, I have no volume issues with the speaker that came from Erv. Right now it's driving a Luxeon III cyan at 1 amp.
I also just got 2 each 7.4 volt 2200mAh Li-ion battery packs, however they will not fit in the hilt! Darn it, should have double checked the width! I'm an engineer and may split the packs to make them "stacked" intead of side-by-side. There is a small PC board in there and will need to also be relocated. The driver board sure likes the Li-ion and the higher voltage as I was only using 4 AA batteries before as the sound is louder, the blade flickers more rapidly, etc.
Any of you have pictures of the holes in the bottom of your Graflex for the speaker, along with the D-ring? I have a picture of a Ultra Saber's Luke ANH rear end. That's going to be the hardest part, drilling into a REAL Graflex, but needs to be done.
Cheers...
Tetmatek
Well-Known Member
I take apart the MR Battery pack to get the speaker. I like the size and it is quite loud
Pastor Jedi
Well-Known Member
movie version then has the ears on the right side of activator. so all you need to do is pop off the bottom tube, take out the lil tiny screw and the plate tab it threads into, remove top tube and turn it 180 and reinsert and put back the screw and tab.
i have a diagram showing the exact proper alignments of ears to clamp if you want it.
So is the Luke ESB clamp on a different side? Do yo have a diagram for that one too?
Crimsonnaire
Sr Member
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=13922&highlight=lightsaber+blueprint
Careful not to use these diagrams as actual blueprints.
Careful not to use these diagrams as actual blueprints.
Pastor Jedi
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Lan-Ed-Tul
Well-Known Member
thats the only one i got. it was given to me from someone a ways back, when i built my first real graflex for display. thats when i found out the movie version was on one side, and the poster version was on the opposite side, like the ESB ears are.
