Graflex grips fitting?

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Keith, May 31, 2015.

  1. Keith

    Keith Sr Member

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    It's been years since I worked on my light sabres, but I am about to upgrade my Luke ANH and Luke ESB with Wanna Wanga plastic grips. What is the best way to get these fitted in the correct position?
    I was thinking about downloading one of those templates and cutting it to half its length so I can follow on from the blank areas of the template with masking tape on the sabre. Does that sound like a good way of doing it or are there better ways?

    Thanks,

    Keith.
     
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  2. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Keith,

    I eye-balled my ESB grips...which is probably not the best way to do things if you like symmetry.
    I'd say your idea with the template (like from partsofsw.com) and the masking tape is a very good and suitable plan to follow.
     
  3. Keith

    Keith Sr Member

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    Ok thanks, I will try it that way then.

    I must say, I'm looking forward to seeing my sabers again, as they have been in storage for three years. I never did like the rubber grips. If I'm happy with the new grips, I will upgrade my Vader ROTJ too.

    Keith.
     
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  4. PoopaPapaPalps

    PoopaPapaPalps Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just be sure to scale those templates to full size when you print them. I blew my first batch of Roy's grips when I did mine because I overlooked this bit.:wacko
     
  5. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The 6-grip sabers....ESB sabers....you probably won't need a template. I started with one, put one opposite. Then I split the remaining area into two and put my next one on...and put one opposite...and so on.

    The ANH ones...yes, def use the template, those are hard :D
     
  6. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I fitted a full size template on for the ANH, then slid it down a bit and put tiny sharpie marks on the saber where the grips would go.
    Then slipped the template up a bit and put more marks at the bottom. Finally, I pulled the template off and used the marks as a guide for gluing on the grips and removed the sharpie with a dry erase marker and a paper towel. This worked quite well for me.

    Good luck with your project.
     
  7. Marv

    Marv Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Ditto... :)
     
  8. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hold up, how'd you remove sharpie? Dry erase marker?! Panaflex
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  9. Marv

    Marv Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I used a fine point pencil.
     
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  10. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    thats how i did it as well, worked great

    - - - Updated - - -

    alittle acetone will wipe that right off ;)

    and i mean little!
     
  11. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah! Turns out, dry erase dissolves permanent sharpie in a second and you just wipe it off.
    We use it to clean clapper boards (slates) on film sets.
     
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  12. Keith

    Keith Sr Member

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    Thanks everyone.

    Keith.
     
  13. mortifactor

    mortifactor Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys - wondering what adhesives you've all used for graflex grips (especially ANH).

    Has anyone tried a silicone adhesive like this?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFyCowTx5Qs

    I don't want the grips to EVER come off. Was going to drill holes in the tube, gunk the adhesive onto the grip and place it on - the adhesive should squeeze through the drilled hole and harden to form a kind of "rivet" of sorts. Not used this type of sealer before and wondering if similar products have been tested or if they fail in time etc.

    I'd be overkilling it and using the HI-GRAB


    edit: Would JB Weld work also? I'm worrying a bit about this because I have little faith in glues ever since I had a disastrous water based contact adhesive fail :lol. I know they're all different glues and the surface matters as much as the substance, I just need to be told it will be ok lol!
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  14. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    i dont want to hijack the thread, but ive noticed with my grips that after filing there is a pretty big color difference between the filed stop (where the screw will go) and the rest of the track. i was wondering if you guys do anything to that like paint. or even hit it with black sharpie? i tried wetting it with water and a cotton swab to get the dust off it after filing and the color seemed to not change..
     
  15. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    @ mortifactor Any two part epoxy should suffice, which gives you some more time to adjust then super glue does ... don't overkill and don't worry, be happy :)

    @ halliwax Perhaps you could use some Novus 2 to get the black plastic color back .. assuming you're using plastic grips of course :wacko

    Chaim
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  16. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I actually use Pledge. the yellow spray can for furniture is actually wax - helps to fill in some of the scratches and leaves the filed areas darker than before

    IMG_1366.JPG < after Pledge
     
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  17. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you guys for the great advice. Tom once I catch up from this past winters bills I'm grabbing a few shirts from the shop and joining the premium membership. I'm very very close to being back to normal, only 1 more dentist visit left!!
     
  18. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ..what?! That's great, what happened to you?! :lol
     
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  19. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    tom i just came on here to throw up a picture of what my track looks like and your picture is now showing, before it showed a "premium members" badge... figuring you learned that trick after gaining access to the members only section lol those tracks look great heres mine

    [​IMG]

    and thanks to you i also bought the same miter box you suggested. i was amazed at how easy roys grips were to cut.

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That Graflex looks mighty good over there, Danny!
     
  21. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    shes a fake, i bought it awhile back in the junkyard. the box had "LK" on it, actually last week ebay had the exact same replica. it had the extra red button and glass eye. the red buttons have crumbled up paper in them to act like a button and the ebay auction said the same. the end of flash with the stamping in it also has 2 holes drilled in it (ebay auction had the same) so i am limited to where i can mount the kobold. though it lines up with the clamp on the flash the right way i dont know if the kobold is covering the right words on the end.... cant really make out whats its cover in the wampa scene

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  22. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    My dad just got one of those too!
     
  23. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    @ halliwax Just align the Kobold clip correctly with the clamp ... disregard the position of the 3 cell bottom txt or words, which is unique on any vintage or even fake G R A F L E X ... so don't even bother to check any saber reference pics of Luke's ESB :wacko

    Chaim
     
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  24. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hard to tell because the manufacturers don't tell what kind of compound it is, not even on their own web site.

    Adiseal reminds me of another adhesive that I have used. It was based on SMP, which .
    I used it to glue a D-ring bracket to a lightsaber: both made of aluminium. The lightsaber hangs from the belt hook with only the adhesive.
     
  25. Keith

    Keith Sr Member

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    My grip template came out way too large. I have no idea how to print this in 1/1 scale.

    Keith.
     
  26. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Keith, you could wrap a paper all the way around the tube.
    Make a line/mark where the paper first overlaps itself.
    Next, measure the length from the end of the paper to the line/mark.
    Then, for an ESB, divide that length by six. For an ANH, divide that length by seven.
    Take that number and measure it across the length at the top edge of the paper and make a mark.
    Continue measuring that divided length and make a mark each time.
    Do this across the bottom edge of the paper as well.
    Then connect the corresponding marks from the top edge of the paper to the marks at the bottom edge of the paper.

    The template may not end up looking as pretty as the printed one, but unless your measuring, marking, or simple math skills have messed up somewhere along the way, it should work.
     
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  27. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Andy I did this last night, I'm super ticked though because the expoy I bought was hard in one tube!!! so I couldn't attach one...

    thanks for the advice
    Sym-Cha thanks for that advice there was only that one picture in the wanna cave, PLUS I was limited to the angle because of the pervious 2 holes. I was lucky though for it to work out in my favor. I'll update my thread tomorrow morning rather then Isis this thread anymore


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  28. Keith

    Keith Sr Member

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    Thanks for that, I will give it a try.

    Keith.
     
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