Ghost Trap - Mark 2


Master Member
Howdy folks....

First post...Found this place looking for some information....

My prop building skills are mediocre at best. Last year, I built my first display proton pack...mostly just to see how easy the task would be. YouTube - ‪Proton Pack Construction‬‏ ...This year, I tackled the trap. A few minor goofs along the way, including a broken handle that snapped right in half, and this is the final result..


Not the best looking one in the world, so, here is try 2.

It started off with a small gluing error that was easily fixed thanks to a little magic eraser trick. Two minor drilling errors lead to a slightly cracked side plating, and a misplaced rod. But so far, below is the result of what we have so far..


If I can't fix this, I'll most likelyspring for a new plate for try two. I'm not quite sure if I'll leave the stickers on the doors or not.


This side doesn't look as bad. I still need to get two more screws for the left plate that are the proper length. Next trip to Sears.


And of course, the most nerve wracking part.. Drilling the holes for the lights. I ordered lights, and a door opening servo from Hyperdine Labs. I'm debating on how to get the lights to sit on the top plate properly...if anyone has any pictures of their setup from HDL, most appreciated in seeing pictures.

Once I get those two installed, and a final paint job, it'll be finished.
Next up will be the wearable proton pack.

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Today, we got the remaining lights wired, although one white isn't working for some reason.

And just in case, if anyone knows how this servo motor goes together, most appreciated. I've got the wiring all done, just not the assembly on how this is supposed to open the doors ;o).


A little more progress from last week. I got the light wired to the back of the trap. Have to remove a little bit of glue from the top metal plate to make it look all nice and shiny. Wasn't sure how else to attach the light cap, since from screen shots, it doesn't look like it pokes through, but sits on top of the metal plate.

Unfortunately, over the weekend, I seem to have lost a light. The little round one that sits at the front of the trap. I also need two more square ones to make it fill out the rest of the metal plate. If anyone knows where to get these, most appreciated. Hyperdine isn't very fast at replying :).
-edit, found the circular replacement. still need 2 extra cubed lights


Next, the construction of our first trap pedal. I can't go any further than this, though, untill the Tap drill set comes back from a job. I work at a electrical contracting company, so all the stuff I need is right in the wearhouse. When it's not being used :).

Once I find a place to order the three extra LED lights, and figure out that RC Hobby motor, I can finish it up. As always with my stuff, mistakes are made, but sometimes that's half the fun :).
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No problem :).

A bit more progress today:

Side Rod fixed so that it covers the 'mistake holes' drilled. No matter how I tried to measure it, I was ALWAYS off a little tiny frustraing bit.

Holes drilled for the Servo motor. I can attach it to the side of the trap now, I'm just not sure if these are extra parts that come with it...and how exactly it's supposed to attach to the trap door to make it open.

Hole widened by the battery box, so the actual battery connector cable can now fit through with the rest of the wires. but with all that 'dust' not being vacuum able off... it now needs a quick spray paint. The Doors will also be attached tomorrow. HOPEFULLY, tomorrow it will be completed, after working on and off since the beginning of June. The only thing left to figure out will be the servo motor itself..

Once that is done, it's onto Proton Gun Mark 2 and the Wearable Proton Pack!
Well, it's not pretty but today I got the holes drilled for the trap door. Next I've got to drill the bolt holes for the trap 'ears'. Then I can start final assembly, even though I still don't know if these are extra parts for the RC motor, or if all I need left to order is a linkage top open the doors..
Almost done...


It's not going to look pretty, because trying to get the holes even was tough as heck at this point..but the right door is now secure and turns. One final hole to drill for the left and all that's left is that crummy servo motor to figure out :).

Will probably do a trap mark 3 at some point now that I've got all the bugs worked out :)..

A little update. The wires for the trap pedal are now glued in. The Holes are properly tapped and everything is screwed in right. I just don't know how the IDE cable goes into the side, as the part I have is just a housing. Maybe I'm missing the connector that goes into the housing itself. Once that is installed, the trap pedal will be done.

As for the trap itself, I had to chip away at the battery box because the switch that goes in it wouldn't fit. Now that it does, I accidentally cipped off some of the paint while test fitting the plate, so now the back needs a bit of a spray.

Once that's done, I need to splite the power wire that goes to the battery, and make it longer, so it can fit through to the battery holder. I've then got to find some strong wire to attach to the servo, and the trap mark 2 will be done.

With the Mattel Ghostbusters Prop Trap, I no longer have to build a Mark 3, although I might somewhere down the road now that I've got all the bugs worked out
A bit of a trap update:

Almost done. My soldering kit got here. I was able to extend the battery wires so now the wires can actually reach to the battery box with no problem. An extra 'dent' was drilled into the battery box, so the switch itself can fit in when the cover is put on. The lights on the top of the trap are now secured in.

The only thing left to do is figure out how to wire this switch so that it powers on, the trap opens, and then flick it closed andthe trap closes, without turning it off...

My attempts at Soldering, using my new low powered solder rod. Note to self, when you see smoke arising, that means one of your replacement lights isn't compatible with the others!


I've still got to remove the excess glue from the plate around the light. I've got the on off wires attached to the switch now, but I can't figure out the proper placement for the door open wires. Maybe I need to extend the wires so they hit both prongs...but even then, when the switch goes to the off position, it wouldn't close and do the box closed light sequence, if that makes any sense...

Once that's done, and I can find a sturdy enough wire to glue to the doors and servo, it'll be done..and on to proton gun mark 2.
Progress, or lack there of, on the opening of the doors..

First try failed spectacularly. Not only did the doors not open with the paper clip attached, but some how the paper clip started smoking! Had to quickly take it off before it started a fire... Not sure what happened. Try two today..
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