I have been too scared to test how long the battery backup will last. Maybe I'll do that on a new ball that I haven't built yet. that way there's nothing on it to break.
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Limited Run Red TROS Version Floating Jedi Training Remote Limited Edition
- Thread starter Trooper_trent
- Start date
zjunlimited
Sr Member
Or find something that draws the same amperage and plug that in instead like a lamp or radio.
yep!
Odi1Kenobi
New Member
So I have never used this platform before, I think I might be interested in one of these but not 100% sure yet
Odi1Kenobi
New Member
How
Hey! How what?
KT102
New Member
112- KT102
OK so I just tested it and can confirm that the UPS listed in the first post of this thread will give you 3 full hours (and 2 minutes lol) of battery backup power. Of course if you have other things running off of it, that will decrease, but for the remote alone, you get 3 hours. The good news is any power cut that is shorter than 3 hours, it'll kick back on and recharge while continuing to run. If the outage is long enough that you let the battery deplete, you will have to manually reset it and let it charge back up for 8 hours before plugging in the remote again.
starving4rtist
Active Member
Looking forward to see if the kits turn out for these! I'd love to out one together myself.
NOTES ON WEATHERING OPTIONS. I'm also putting this in the first post for easy location.
I've had several people ask me what the differences are between my "Prop/exhibit accurate" and "Film accurate" options.
For the most part I weather them exactly the same. The ONLY difference is what I use to trace the rectangles, sets of three trapezoids, and laser areas. The real prop has pencil lines tracing these. It appears to have been done to help bring out the edges and details since those pieces are all very similar color. Evidence suggests it was not simply done during assembly to mark where the pieces should go, it was obviously put there AFTER it was assembled. It really does help bring out those details.
Option A is that I do the same thing they did. Pencil. It'll look like the prop does now while on display at an exhibit.
Option B is that instead of pencil, I use a fine tip chrome pen. While less accurate in terms of prop construction, it gives it a much more accurate APPEARANCE to what you remember seeing on film. Here's why. When under extremely bright such as that of studio lights during filming, pencil lead has a silver, metallic, reflective quality to it. Normal everyday home lighting is not bright enough to cause that effect. Using the chrome pen effectively reproduces that metallic sheen seen on the movie but under normal home lighting.
For example,
See here in this screenshot from the movie how the border around the rectangle and laser area has a metallic looking reflection. That's the pencil lead under very bright lights.
This is the EXACT SAME area of the prop as it appears in real life while on display at an exhibit
So basically, if you want it "prop" accurate, meaning you want it built as close to the real prop as possible, I can use pencil. If you want it to have that metallic sheen like you see on the movie but in person, I can use the chrome pen. FYI the chrome pen / Film accurate option is by far the most popular by previous members. I already make some concessions for accuracy in lieu of ease of assembly, and having a more professional looking finish (I don't hand paint the red areas with a sloppy paint job, and it lights up and floats... all of which is not technically accurate) so this option has typically been well received.
Thanks!
I've had several people ask me what the differences are between my "Prop/exhibit accurate" and "Film accurate" options.
For the most part I weather them exactly the same. The ONLY difference is what I use to trace the rectangles, sets of three trapezoids, and laser areas. The real prop has pencil lines tracing these. It appears to have been done to help bring out the edges and details since those pieces are all very similar color. Evidence suggests it was not simply done during assembly to mark where the pieces should go, it was obviously put there AFTER it was assembled. It really does help bring out those details.
Option A is that I do the same thing they did. Pencil. It'll look like the prop does now while on display at an exhibit.
Option B is that instead of pencil, I use a fine tip chrome pen. While less accurate in terms of prop construction, it gives it a much more accurate APPEARANCE to what you remember seeing on film. Here's why. When under extremely bright such as that of studio lights during filming, pencil lead has a silver, metallic, reflective quality to it. Normal everyday home lighting is not bright enough to cause that effect. Using the chrome pen effectively reproduces that metallic sheen seen on the movie but under normal home lighting.
For example,
See here in this screenshot from the movie how the border around the rectangle and laser area has a metallic looking reflection. That's the pencil lead under very bright lights.
This is the EXACT SAME area of the prop as it appears in real life while on display at an exhibit
So basically, if you want it "prop" accurate, meaning you want it built as close to the real prop as possible, I can use pencil. If you want it to have that metallic sheen like you see on the movie but in person, I can use the chrome pen. FYI the chrome pen / Film accurate option is by far the most popular by previous members. I already make some concessions for accuracy in lieu of ease of assembly, and having a more professional looking finish (I don't hand paint the red areas with a sloppy paint job, and it lights up and floats... all of which is not technically accurate) so this option has typically been well received.
Thanks!
Ahem...
I'm just gonna put this right here in case anyone is interested
Who's gonna be the first to request this paint scheme?
I'm just gonna put this right here in case anyone is interested
Who's gonna be the first to request this paint scheme?
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JediJohn182
Well-Known Member
What’s that from? Never seen it beforeAhem...
I'm just gonna put this right here in case anyone is interested
View attachment 1052459
Who's gonna be the first to request this paint scheme?
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The new episode 9 trailer.
JediJohn182
Well-Known Member
Dang it’s nice, can’t wait to see it up close in the visual directory out a few days before movie. Still getting original when I’m up mid September, but would probably add this at later date if you were still doing them. Hope it has a relatively long amount of screen time, as the original
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