Fiberglassing the 300 helmet: Tutorial Video

Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Very nicely done man! Can I ask what the "resin mudd" was for exactly? I've never seen it mentioned before.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Very nicely done man! Can I ask what the "resin mudd" was for exactly? I've never seen it mentioned before.

In my experience the resin mudd is to eliminate any air bubbles when laying up the fiberglass, since the fiberglass matt won't conform to any sharp angles or irregular sharp shapes in the sculpt. The putty or mudd will fill in those voids created by the angles and the glass will smoothly lay over the mudd with no air traps. It's important to lay the glass down before the mudd hardens.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

In my experience the resin mudd is to eliminate any air bubbles when laying up the fiberglass, since the fiberglass matt won't conform to any sharp angles or irregular sharp shapes in the sculpt. The putty or mudd will fill in those voids created by the angles and the glass will smoothly lay over the mudd with no air traps. It's important to lay the glass down before the mudd hardens.


Exactly, basically to firm up those to edges so their not brital. The fiberglass likes to bubble up around the eyes and the tight corners so the "mud" gives it alot more strength and helps eliminate those bubbles.

PS: Got Maul was the one you inttroduced me to that, so all the credit goes to him
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Thanks for the credit Tim! You took to this like fish to water.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Hey guys, great work on the tut, I made it a favorite vid of mine on youtube.
Got one question though: what's the mud? what's it made of?

Thanks ;)
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

The Mud is basically Resin mixed with a very very fine powder "Aerosil Silica". It gives it the consistancy of Mud or vasaline. Helps provide extra strength to the areas where the fiberglass wont lay flat and also helps eliminate air bubbles
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

A resin filler will do as well. Sometimes, that's more common. The point is, you want the mud to be thick enough it doesn't drip. How you get there is up to you.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Great video Tim! Unfortunately I didn't wait to watch that before I tried fiberglassing a cast a few weeks ago. I got pretty horrifying results. Lots of air bubble holes and places that didn't get any resin at all. Been bondoing since then. This mud technique on the other hand seems to be much more reliable.

Nice helmet too!:thumbsup
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

Thanks for the explanation, I'll have to see how the item's named here in Italy ;)

Here (US) it is named "Cabosil" also refered to as fumed silica. It is powdered glass, and and VERY light and fluffy. It floats around very easily, and you should ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

I HATE cabosil. I am am asthmatic and even with a respirator on, Cabo follows you around. I switched to resin filler (nothing more than resin shavings) because its denser, cheaper and when you mix it in mud, I believe its actually stronger. LAstly, in the process of stirring it, it actually stays in place so much so I don't have to use a respirator.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

The other technique Tim is showcasing is the pre-wet fiberglass technique. Its argued that this wastes more fiberglass resin, but if done right I think it uses less. I learned this technique from the boys in Acme, Chicago. For areas where space is tight and your ability to tamp down the fiberglass is running against time and space, this is a great solution.

Otherwise, large things (like shields) is just fine for standard fiberglass resin tamping.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

First time I hear about pre-wet fiberglass! That seems way easier for Pepakura in fact, or any helmets in theory^^

Nice work Tim, very clean casts
 
Thanks for all the kind words, was a fun learning experience for me as I had done glassing the traditional way.
 
Re: Fiberglassing the 300 helmet

A resin filler will do as well. Sometimes, that's more common. The point is, you want the mud to be thick enough it doesn't drip. How you get there is up to you.
Very cool. Thanks for the great tip on that!!! I wish we could get a thread on tips like that. Think that would be great.
Jonnie wishbone
 
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