Farnsworth Discussion

Thanks, all. I ordered a few of the watch glass items from CTechGlass. I had a plastic dome that just wasn't going to cut it. I had a few faceplates made from plastic based on my drawing I made, and they came out alright, although not as well as I'd like. This one's a little rough since i've been using it for fitting/sizing.
platepic.jpeg

I always seem to be too busy with RL anytime some of the brass plates were available.
 
looks great so far, can't wait to see more progress

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Thanks, all. I ordered a few of the watch glass items from CTechGlass. I had a plastic dome that just wasn't going to cut it. I had a few faceplates made from plastic based on my drawing I made, and they came out alright, although not as well as I'd like. This one's a little rough since i've been using it for fitting/sizing.
View attachment 189782

I always seem to be too busy with RL anytime some of the brass plates were available.

Any way you could link me to the dish you ordered?
 
The parts scavenging continues...
ane3y7yt.jpg


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Got my final part today (the left knob). It's taken about a month to gather all the parts. The majority came from Ebay UK. The left knob, Switchcraft switch and 300 second USB recording module came from Ebay, but from US sellers. The center knob was from a UK company Tizaro (since they turned out to be cheaper than RS Components), and a singe red lens (all £11.81 worth) from RS Components UK.

I've decided (stupidly, I imagine) to make my own faceplate using sheet brass and ferric chloride. I know the theory, but I've never etched anything before. It's making me more than a little nervous. I went for this approach as in addition to a straight Farnsworth, I'm trying to build a Farnsworth-style gadget to my own specifications which would have a custom faceplate.

Anyway, I'll post an update, or the finished product in a few weeks hopefully.

Farnsworth2.jpg
 
The parts scavenging continues...
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I just ordered a switchcraft switch from Mouser a few weeks back (one of the ones I found on eBay was too tall) and, though it took a few weeks to ship, it came BRAND NEW. I think they're remanufacturing them (which is why there was a massive lead-time) so if you can handle the wait, you'll get the exact item without so much scavenging.
If anyone's interested, I can post the direct link a bit later, when I'm not posting from my phone.
 
I just ordered a switchcraft switch from Mouser a few weeks back (one of the ones I found on eBay was too tall) and, though it took a few weeks to ship, it came BRAND NEW. I think they're remanufacturing them (which is why there was a massive lead-time) so if you can handle the wait, you'll get the exact item without so much scavenging.
If anyone's interested, I can post the direct link a bit later, when I'm not posting from my phone.

Good call!

I looked at those, but at $12.83 apiece before shipping, it actually worked out less expensive to buy the CRT tester for $8.49 + $14.00 shipping, scavenge the two Switchcraft 201s that I need for the two that I am building, and harvest the rest of the components & case for some other projects!

If I had needed just one, the Mouser would have been the way to go!

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxtGF7dlGNpo%2fOLgMRFgEEOw5%2fRbACPBY%3d
 
Those of you who are having the faceplate detach so as to access batteries and electronics, how are you keeping it held in place? I was thinking a couple of magnets glued to the underside of the faceplate and ditto inside the case would be sufficient, but I'm curious what others have found successful.
 
I'm doing an "internal components" version of the Farnsworth and I put a nickel-plated magnet in each corner of the faceplate and box. They're far enough away from each other that they don't actually touch, but the pull between them is enough to hold the plate on.

BTW, if anyone needs a Switchcraft 201 button, I recently ordered two so I have a spare. Check the JY, it's in there somewhere.
 
BTW, I ordered a piece off eBay, but it was 75mm, which doesn't fit my faceplate. That glass was smooth; hoever, and described the same way, so I'm just not sure.
 
I received the glass and was disappointed to find distortions in the outer part of the curved surface on all three pieces. I've written them to see if that's normal or just a fluke. I'm guessing the former, so I'll have to find another source.
View attachment 193282View attachment 193283

I'm afraid that it is NOT a fluke.
Mine arrived today, and it has identical distortions.
If you find another decent source, please let me know!

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I ordered two from a seller on eBay named avogadroslabsupply and they were flawless. Maybe I got lucky?
 
I received the glass and was disappointed to find distortions in the outer part of the curved surface on all three pieces. I've written them to see if that's normal or just a fluke. I'm guessing the former, so I'll have to find another source.

I've bought hem locally (pack of 10 for $8.00) and all are pretty good. Obviously not optical grade glass but no distortions like yours show.
 
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