EPSILON-Smooth On
- Thread starter wishbon77
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masternewbie
Member
Hi,
Did you reinforce the inside, or no? How many coats?
Thanks!
Did you reinforce the inside, or no? How many coats?
Thanks!
booksandcorsets
Sr Member
You don't need to reinforce the inside at all; that's a side perk that the foam remains soft on the inside. 
3 thin coats might work too, just use your best judgement. You want it thick enough to be stiff but at a certain point there's no point in adding further coats b/c it is not going to make it any stiffer.
3 thin coats might work too, just use your best judgement. You want it thick enough to be stiff but at a certain point there's no point in adding further coats b/c it is not going to make it any stiffer.
masternewbie
Member
You may have mentioned this, but did you use, or have to use acrylic paint? I noticed on the other thread with the IM build that he used acrylic paint.
Would any spray paint do? I'm doing a clone warrior so I am concerned the creases with EVA, PVA, plasti-dip, paint will show more than when I built the master chief costume last year.
I think the actual hardness, like real body armor may be cool for my 8 year old versus the plastidipped foam last year....the cod and butt parts must be plastidipped I guess so he could sit down
Would any spray paint do? I'm doing a clone warrior so I am concerned the creases with EVA, PVA, plasti-dip, paint will show more than when I built the master chief costume last year.
I think the actual hardness, like real body armor may be cool for my 8 year old versus the plastidipped foam last year....the cod and butt parts must be plastidipped I guess so he could sit down
booksandcorsets
Sr Member
Seriously, I am not the expert here. I've used it a couple times but not an expert. You can totally just try things yourself You can paint it with whatever paint you have handy, it's going to dry as a hard-plasticy-type substance.
You can paint it with whatever paint you have handy, it's going to dry as a hard-plasticy-type substance.
masternewbie
Member
Seriously, I am not the expert here. I've used it a couple times but not an expert. You can totally just try things yourself
A couple uses for you is more than zero for me....heck that is an expert in my book
No worries I'm not going to be a hater if I ruin something with epsilon I'm about to order so for $36 I thought I'd ask as many questions as I could think of.
Thanks
masternewbie
Member
Ok one more question (sorry!!) With the epsilon, did you need to sand between each coat?
Also, is the cure time 16 hours?? I read that somewhere.
Thanks for putting up with the questions
Also, is the cure time 16 hours?? I read that somewhere.
Thanks for putting up with the questions
Hmm, epsilon sounds interesting. I use Polytek all the time (inc EasyFlo120, 90 and 60). I like Polytek stuff, very user friendly, though the 120 is a b**** to sand. I found scraping a stanly blade over the cured resin proved much more efficient.
The coated part had a cavity f4om about half way down the thick under foam and helmet peak so I filled it in with more resin to make it solid.
There is another one from Smooth-On that can be added to the increasing list of possible foam coatings, Shell-Shock. Mainly used as a non filled resin for jacket moulds, it is also stated that it can be used as a coating for foam. I have some left over so I'm going to experiment, this stuff cures solid as a rock, and isn't too hard to sand.
The coated part had a cavity f4om about half way down the thick under foam and helmet peak so I filled it in with more resin to make it solid.
There is another one from Smooth-On that can be added to the increasing list of possible foam coatings, Shell-Shock. Mainly used as a non filled resin for jacket moulds, it is also stated that it can be used as a coating for foam. I have some left over so I'm going to experiment, this stuff cures solid as a rock, and isn't too hard to sand.
masternewbie
Member
It sounds like 65d has sanding too,'so epsilon sounds like it adheres better. Im REALLY interested in the shellshock results and will be looking to see if you post results soon (before Oct 23... Which is when I MUST start painting
It sounds like 65d has sanding too,'so epsilon sounds like it adheres better. Im REALLY interested in the shellshock results and will be looking to see if you post results soon (before Oct 23... Which is when I MUST start painting
Well I'm just in the process of working out how I'm going to claying up a mould now, so might get round to mixing up a batch tomorrow. My plan is to test it on two types of foam (floor matt and camping matt), one with a PVA coat or two and one without.
Shell-Shock is goopy stuff, but self levels ok, if a little slowly. I have noticed that it has a tendancy to droop/sag a touch in thicker areas, so building up thin coats would be best I imagine. Saying that, after its gelled for a little while the surface loses it's tackiness and areas can be worked mirror smooth with a finger. In theory it could be possible to use a rolling pin or some such and go over the whole piece to smooth it before its fully cured, no sanding required.
It is worth noting that shell shock is normally used in thicknesses of around 1cm for jacket moulds (I think this is due to the fact its a little brittle when very thin). Don't be put off though, I used a single glass matt layer with the shell shock for my latest jacket mould and it's very very strong, and only a .1/4 cm thick per piece in the thickest parts. I have since found out that kitchen cloths will do the same jab as glass matting, will come out neater, and would have saved me from all the itching :facepalm we live and learn :lol
Will post results when I can
masternewbie
Member
I ordered the $30 + $10 shipping epsilon...and I'm not even sure I will have the time to go that route. Money-wise I have a huge jug of EVA/wood glue which I used for the last suit. Plastidip is $6-7 a can and I can't remember how much I used before.
Oh well, time is ticking....
Oh well, time is ticking....
6 $ for plastidip in canada its 20$ a can
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