epoxy putty?


Active Member
what do you guys think of using epoxy putty for reinforcing pep and foam work? the weather's cooling off now, and resining outside will be difficult. but I was told buy a guy at a local body shop the putty can be used indoors, and smoothed with wet fingers. it's also odorless and has no fumes.


Active Member
Milliput is essential stuff!! I went through a boat load of it on my stormtrooper helmet but it was more used for detail work and edging....not sure i'd want to use it instead of resin, it would cost a fortune!


Well-Known Member
I have no experience working with pep and foam, but I do have experience working with epoxy putty, and it seems like it would be hard to mold it to paper or foam without crushing it. It's also really expensive. I used $5 worth of putty to make one small disc around 2" in diameter and 1/4" thick. Unless you can get a discount on large quantities of the stuff, you'd spend a fortune to make something like a helmet out of it.

That said, there is this other kind of putty people use to make props which is basically the same thing as epoxy putty, and it's cheaper. I can't remember the name of it though. Still have the same issue of crushing the foam or paper when you try to apply it though.


Sr Member
I use a ton of Apoxie Sculpt (an epoxy type clay with a slower cure... overnight vs. 5 minutes).

It's thick and solid... you'd have to push it in hard to get it to fill spots. I don't see it as a viable way to coat a pep project.


Active Member
I love working with epoxy putty - But as already has been mentioned, it is too damned expensive. In Aus. A 15cm by 1cm round tube is 8 bucks... It doesnt go very far but it is definitely worth it for small areas that need to be free shaped. I wish i could buy a bucket of it for cheap :(

In regards to pep, it would be expensive - But, You could make a frame of the piece with the putty. Not too sure on the adhesion of putty and paper, but a frame would make fibreglassing a hell of a lot easier.


New Member
Apoxie Sculpt is very good - VERY workable though a bit chalky, but probably the best value for larger-scale usage. Another IMPORTANT part is that it starts out softer than most other epoxies I've handled...this is essential for hand-kneading larger quantities, unless if you're the Hulk!
I've always favored ProPoxy for general use, as it is strong and has a nice tight feel to it, but $10 a tube can add up.
I use rubbing alcohol with both for smoothing.
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