Duct tape dummy
- Thread starter kano1989
- Start date
GHOSTINTHESHELL
New Member
dude i used plastic bags and newspapers........i stuffed it tight and it was as hard as nails........worked a treat.
j
j
thanx man it turned out better than I thought it would. Who ever thought you could use duct tape to make a predator suit on a budget!
one and only
New Member
Towels, old clothes, packing peanuts.
Make sure you have a PVC pipe skeleton before you fill it.
Make sure you have a PVC pipe skeleton before you fill it.
DannyinTexas
New Member
so the tape goes over some old clothes you have on or what?
im still a little fuzzy on this
im still a little fuzzy on this
GHOSTINTHESHELL
New Member
dude, yeah wear some old clothes, two or three layers so that the dummy is larger than yrself. i didnt use a skeletal frame i dont know why others do but im sure theres a reason. i packed mine tight with bags, newspapaers and magazines butmade sure i could fit a hangar in the top to suspend while latexing. make sure yr arms and legs are apart a little when taping up, they start to ache baby so be prepared. get someone to tape you good but not too tight, you wont ever get out. i had my helper cut the old jumpers i had on up the back and slid out,i taped it back up then put the stormtrooper style undersuit on the dummy......hey presto ready for latexing. i strung it up via the hangar in the garage. i screwed up by not putting a heavy duty zip in the undersuit but i will be sewing velcro flaps to mine.............hope this helps bro.
J
J
Paintninja
New Member
Yeah, I used Saran wrap on both of mine! And used packing peanuts, as I recall
I believe it was you Scott that told how to begin with!
Here's what I did:
took a series of measurements of myself from the floor to my knee, from my knee to my hip, from my hip to my neck. Also from the shoulder to the elbow, then to the wrist.
Each of these measurements corresponded to a same length of 1/2" metal pipe. At each joint (except the ankles) is a 4-way, 90, 30, or 45 degree screw on connector (see pix). Using a pair of channel locks, you basically assemble a tubular skeleton that is secured to a wooden base--to which you may want to attach 4 casters for ease of movement around the work area. I also needed to create a "3rd leg" that protruded from the bung hole to add stability. Remember to position the arms out in front using 45 degree connectors at the shoulders and elbows. This is done for ease of access to the ribs and under arms, as well as "pre-stressing" a latex skin.
At this point I bought some 2" upholstery foam and duct taped it onto the skeleton in layers to form the basic core. Then, dressed in form fitting thermal underwear, I had a friend wrap me in successive layers of duct tape. In the photos you will see that I did the bottom half of myself separate from the top---don't do that. Do a single wrapping, as this will eliminate incorrect positioning of the two halves on the skeleton. This is why my torso looks elongated on my mannequin. Afterwards, I had my buddy cut me out of the suit with a pair of blunt edge scissors, very safe.
I then dressed the foam cored skeleton with the duct tape shell and proceeded to fill it with "Great Stuff" can foam. The mistake many people make with using this, is that they try to fill the entire mannequin with it. Not only will the stuff take a million years to cure, but it'll cost you more-----which is why I wanted a foam core that consumed about 75% of the interior, leaving the spray foam to fill the remaining 25%. I felt that the liquid foam would reach and fill all the knooks and crannies better. The key to getting the foam to cure quickly, is to strategically cut incisions into the duct tape shell and spray in a mist of water from an old household cleaner bottle, then inject the foam into those areas. Foams need moisture to cure, and this will get the job done nicely. Some foam leaked out of the incisions, I just cut it off later on. As the foam is curing, I took a tailor's measuring tape (flexible) and taped the circumference of my neck, shoulder/ arm pits, chest , waist, buttocks, and so on. If you're mannequin doesn't measure up, just shoot in more foam, or add tape if necessary. Those measurements shouldn't vary that much.
Lastly, I bought some Plasti-Dip in a spray can and coated the entire dummy. This will help keep the tape from peeling up, and give the dummy a uniform, flexible covering. Hope that helps.
took a series of measurements of myself from the floor to my knee, from my knee to my hip, from my hip to my neck. Also from the shoulder to the elbow, then to the wrist.
Each of these measurements corresponded to a same length of 1/2" metal pipe. At each joint (except the ankles) is a 4-way, 90, 30, or 45 degree screw on connector (see pix). Using a pair of channel locks, you basically assemble a tubular skeleton that is secured to a wooden base--to which you may want to attach 4 casters for ease of movement around the work area. I also needed to create a "3rd leg" that protruded from the bung hole to add stability. Remember to position the arms out in front using 45 degree connectors at the shoulders and elbows. This is done for ease of access to the ribs and under arms, as well as "pre-stressing" a latex skin.
At this point I bought some 2" upholstery foam and duct taped it onto the skeleton in layers to form the basic core. Then, dressed in form fitting thermal underwear, I had a friend wrap me in successive layers of duct tape. In the photos you will see that I did the bottom half of myself separate from the top---don't do that. Do a single wrapping, as this will eliminate incorrect positioning of the two halves on the skeleton. This is why my torso looks elongated on my mannequin. Afterwards, I had my buddy cut me out of the suit with a pair of blunt edge scissors, very safe.
I then dressed the foam cored skeleton with the duct tape shell and proceeded to fill it with "Great Stuff" can foam. The mistake many people make with using this, is that they try to fill the entire mannequin with it. Not only will the stuff take a million years to cure, but it'll cost you more-----which is why I wanted a foam core that consumed about 75% of the interior, leaving the spray foam to fill the remaining 25%. I felt that the liquid foam would reach and fill all the knooks and crannies better. The key to getting the foam to cure quickly, is to strategically cut incisions into the duct tape shell and spray in a mist of water from an old household cleaner bottle, then inject the foam into those areas. Foams need moisture to cure, and this will get the job done nicely. Some foam leaked out of the incisions, I just cut it off later on. As the foam is curing, I took a tailor's measuring tape (flexible) and taped the circumference of my neck, shoulder/ arm pits, chest , waist, buttocks, and so on. If you're mannequin doesn't measure up, just shoot in more foam, or add tape if necessary. Those measurements shouldn't vary that much.
Lastly, I bought some Plasti-Dip in a spray can and coated the entire dummy. This will help keep the tape from peeling up, and give the dummy a uniform, flexible covering. Hope that helps.
Paintninja
New Member
Damn it, Carl! Now I have to make yet another one!
Thanx for the added tutorial these are all fantastic ideas!
I didn't add a rigid skeleton to mine, wish I had! The Great
Stuff and Plastidip are novel ideas! Kudos, thanx for sharing!
Thanx for the added tutorial these are all fantastic ideas!
I didn't add a rigid skeleton to mine, wish I had! The Great
Stuff and Plastidip are novel ideas! Kudos, thanx for sharing!
Mannowar
Sr Member
It's all kinda personal preference... I stopped putting in skeletal armitures after the very first one I did... but I hang mine instead of standing it... I like them to be more flexible if I need them to be and the skeleton got in the way and just caused more problems than it solved... the only thing I do is run a PVC pipe across the shoulders (on the inside) and really add extra tape support on the shoulders... that way, I have a support to hang it from...
Very true. In fact, I had to remove the left arm on my mannequin to allow removing the torso armor sculpt and mold. But that's the beauty of metal pipe and connectors. I just simply sliced the arm, unscrewed it, screwed it back on, and taped over the seam.
Bovine13
New Member
I did an inner pvc frame but, just from the shoulders to the hips. No arms or legs. I put an allthread eyelet in the to of the pvc so I can adjust the height about 6 inches while it hangs from some stands I made. Im working on the front and I need to do the back, bam!.... just spin it around. Worked well.
Garo Predator
New Member
I filled min with sheets
