Dreads - The Continuing Saga...
- Thread starter BonzRus
- Start date
BonzRus
New Member
ptgreek said:
Thanks George I do plan to try the So Strong black. i tried pre-mixing a larger qty. of the part B with the Burman Ultra Black and it seems to work better than just trying to tint only the small amount required to make a dread. As for the pre-curved thing it is probably just more a preference and trying something different. Not sure yet where I will settle on that.ptgreek said:
Thanks Gene! Were these made from a silicone mold or stone or resin? They look really good!seahunterr said:
Steve
seahunterr
New Member
Hey Steve,
These dreads were cast from tin silicone mold, with slight bend. It's a thick, two part mold, but i don't really get any seam lines.
These dreads were cast from tin silicone mold, with slight bend. It's a thick, two part mold, but i don't really get any seam lines.
Eaglewood
Sr Member
I was going to ask the same question, but I love to see Steve experimenting!!!ptgreek said:Steve ..The "so strong" will work great and save a lot in product cost. The fallowing pic is of a silicone sleeve that we do for one of our Masks. The "claws" are run in flex foam X with only a couple drops of so strong mixed in. Its not proprietary, so it should work just fine in your Burman foam
Im curios ..why the trouble with casting a curved dread? If you cut the end at an angle and secure to the mask, it will give you the exact same effect. The film dreads where cast straight and applied the exact same way
Ditto on the So-Strong Black--seahunterr said:
seahunterr
New Member
I' ve had good results with the flex 6, with the lower "a" mix. Temp, humidity and amounts make a big difference in the castings, but the results have been consistent. Here's how i did the molds
AlphaTech686
Active Member
This is such an interesting thread.
BonzRus
New Member
Thanks for the pic Gene...this is great! I definitely like the curve as it just looks more natural to me. I am also still trying to make these seamless as well which does impact how you make a mold. I know to some I am making too big of a deal out of the seamless thing but it is just something I want to try. In the end I may abandon it but I will make my final molds with the option of a seam if I should decide to go that direction. I know how to do it so it will just take a little time to get from here to there mainly because of the lack of funds for materials. I am in no rush. Last night I did some more experimenting. I poured 500 grams of part B into a container and at a mix ratio of 35:100 A to B I added 20 grams of the BJB Ultra Black pigment to the B component and mixed it well. This gives me the max 3% of total weight for the pigment as recommended by BJB. I then poured three straight dreads using this pre-tinted mixture in my old (skinnier) mold and the results were good. The foam is a deep black color almost throughout and they skinned well.seahunterr said:
In fact I was able to simply pull them from the mold without using any compressed air to help them release. I am getting quite a few of these things now and my mix amounts and techniques are becoming more consistent.
I plan to do the same thing with the So Strong tint to have an accurate comparison.
I spent some more time finishing my newest plugs and got them painted black this morning. My plan is to make up a quick silicone mold of each one so that I can duplicate them in resin. Then I can make a mold similar to what Gene did above so that I can pour multiple dreads at a time.
Small...3/4" dia x 10" Long
Medium...1" dia x 14" Long
and Large...1" dia x 18" Long
This is all a fun experiment for me and I am learning a lot. Thanks for all the feedback and input. I really appreciate it.
Steve
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Bezzerkerr
New Member
Your dreads...give them to me (Arnold accent)seahunterr said:
Lol
BonzRus
New Member
Got started on the molds for the resin dreads and ran out of silicone...no worries though as I am out of resin as well....HA! So I will be in a slight holding pattern on these for a time. This will give me some incentive to complete a couple level 2 bio helmet kits I am trying to finish up and will give me some time to work on my foam swords and shields which is just another aspect of stuff I am working on. I just finished this tabbard for my oldest son and started working on ones for the younger boys.
Here are the molds I will make my resin copies from.
And I just got two poured...so this is where I am at.
Steve
Here are the molds I will make my resin copies from.
And I just got two poured...so this is where I am at.
Steve
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BonzRus
New Member
Got the resin plugs cast up for the large and small dreads over the weekend. Still waiting on silicone for the mediums. All in due time.
The mold set ups...
The resin copies.
Once I clean these up a bit I can start to work on the final molds for them.
Steve
The mold set ups...
The resin copies.
Once I clean these up a bit I can start to work on the final molds for them.
Steve
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AlphaTech686
Active Member
Hey Streve, so I haven't commented in a while I was in Iowa visiting family. These are looking fantastic per normal for you. I have a question, I now you thought of this but why not just either cast the resin dreads in the original molds or make your new multi dread molds by casting 4 foam dreads? I'm just wondering, ok I am very curious.
BonzRus
New Member
Good question Jeff...The reason is this. The ridgid foam board is still quite soft after painting them. I wanted to make 5 ea for my final molds and wanted them to all be the same size and shape. It was too much of a pain to make 5 of each size out of foam and have them be consistent. Also, I wanted the plugs to be more solid to better withstand the rigors of the molding process so resin copies of the original made the most sense to me. Once I have these all smoothed out I will encase each on in a 1/4" thick wrap of modelling clay and will then make a ridgid split (mother) mold with fiberglass matt and polyester resin of all 5 at once. Then I will remove the clay, reposition the plugs inside the mother mold and fill each cavity with silicone. So, in the end I will have 5 silicone seamless curved jackets inside one split mold. There will still be a small hole in the tip of each one to help demold the foam dread. With the thinner silicone wall it will allow for easier demolding as well and the mothermold will minimize distortion. If I really end up needing to split the silicone jacket I will be able to do so (one seam) without trouble but that is not my desire. I know this seems like a huge amount of trouble but it is how I am approaching this particular project because I do want to make them available. I believe that I will also end up painting them with Plastidip or Rubber Dip S using an HVLP sprayer. The skins I have been getting are quite durable as they are and I can get better skins with back pressure but then the foam density goes up and they become stiffer as a result. The BJB TC-266 is good stuff and I like the feel, weight and action of it. I have had the opportunity to spend a little time playing with some Kryolan foam (thanks to Brian) and it is good as well but I need more time with it. I would also like to try some of the FF 6 as well but only after I get my molds done.
Steve
Steve
AlphaTech686
Active Member
Steve that was a great expenation. It sounds like you have it figured out. I know you like doing things the hard way I mean the best way. We really
appreicate all the pics and info. As usual a job very well executed and with style.
appreicate all the pics and info. As usual a job very well executed and with style.
agh12
Well-Known Member
hello good, I'm new to flexible foams.
I want to know your opinions about this foam that I'll buy.
free density of 54 grams / liter.
http://www.jordisagrista.com/epages/ea9179.sf/es_ES/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ea9179/Products/21P9735M50001K
regards
I want to know your opinions about this foam that I'll buy.
free density of 54 grams / liter.
http://www.jordisagrista.com/epages/ea9179.sf/es_ES/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ea9179/Products/21P9735M50001K
regards
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