Morrigoon
Member
I wanted to share with you my Missy purple suit build. For starters, here are some reference photos of the screen version:
So, onto the build. I started with Sense & Sensibility's 1909 Beatrix Jacket pattern (and later, the skirt pattern). I made significant modifications to the pattern due to sizing issues, but more importantly, I got rid of the two back pleats and replaced them with a single back vent.
Overall fit was okay. The back was great, but the front will need alterations to the pattern before I make it again (this costume was unlined eggplant colored broadcloth, my eventual plan would be to make this up in crepe - wool is SA but not conducive to the SoCal climate). I need to add about 2" to all front pieces, and some of the bust curve I took out needs to be put back in, reduce flare over the hips, and possibly add an additional 6" to all pieces after that.
One other adjustment to the pattern, which I did later, was to curve the bottom front corners. Which was accomplished with the help of a trusty bowl.
Marked out buttonholes only to discover the screen version had buttons on top, but snaps underneath. Actually this is a nice feature, and I suggest doing it that way. Before I move onto trim, a couple things about the collar. Collar was a pain, as collars are wont to be. I made a mistake stay stitching the neckline. It wasn't in the directions, I just did it. Now I know why it wasn't in the directions. Also, this pattern is designed to be fully lined. I tried to skip lining and just make facings. Honestly, it would have been easier to cut out a full lining, not to mention the overall improvements to construction and lie that come with lining garments. The pattern gives instructions for period support for the roll collar, which is nice.
Okay, so buttons. SA buttons were nowhere to be found, but I picked up this pretty good button at a local JoAnn's. And braid at M&L Fabrics. There was a more accurate thick trim available, but knowing this was a "test" version, I went with the budget option. If you have seen the released Missy clip in advance of Season 9, this was not a bad call
I don't have any in-progress pics of the skirt, but I made the walking skirt variation with the habit back. (Again, using 1909 Beatrix Skirt pattern by Sense & Sensibility) I added 2" to each side of the center front panel, to create 1" deep pleats/tucks on either side, as per the screen version. 4" deep hem, per the pattern. Beautiful fit, material could have cooperated better, especially on those pleats, but I suspect remaking in more substantial fabric will solve that on its own.
I'll have to share details of the hat in a later post - it was a cheap straw trilby (fedora to most) when it started, underwent significant changes, and I sculpted a hatpin as well.
Final result:
Here with the Missy device which I detailed in a prop thread previously:
Harassing the 12th Doctor:
Harassing Osgood:
And John Barrowman:
Some final notes: Jacket could be about 6" longer all around, front of jacket needs about 2" more to even up with the back, some of that at the top of the shoulder which will help with bust curve issues (I may have the earlier version of the pattern which had omitted the extra space at the top for larger sizes). The skirt is fabulous, but to be a bit more screen accurate, should be cut shorter (refer to photos at top). This version I didn't quite get to the buttons and trim on the sleeves in time for the Con. But all in all, a very fun costume to do.
So, onto the build. I started with Sense & Sensibility's 1909 Beatrix Jacket pattern (and later, the skirt pattern). I made significant modifications to the pattern due to sizing issues, but more importantly, I got rid of the two back pleats and replaced them with a single back vent.
Overall fit was okay. The back was great, but the front will need alterations to the pattern before I make it again (this costume was unlined eggplant colored broadcloth, my eventual plan would be to make this up in crepe - wool is SA but not conducive to the SoCal climate). I need to add about 2" to all front pieces, and some of the bust curve I took out needs to be put back in, reduce flare over the hips, and possibly add an additional 6" to all pieces after that.
One other adjustment to the pattern, which I did later, was to curve the bottom front corners. Which was accomplished with the help of a trusty bowl.
Marked out buttonholes only to discover the screen version had buttons on top, but snaps underneath. Actually this is a nice feature, and I suggest doing it that way. Before I move onto trim, a couple things about the collar. Collar was a pain, as collars are wont to be. I made a mistake stay stitching the neckline. It wasn't in the directions, I just did it. Now I know why it wasn't in the directions. Also, this pattern is designed to be fully lined. I tried to skip lining and just make facings. Honestly, it would have been easier to cut out a full lining, not to mention the overall improvements to construction and lie that come with lining garments. The pattern gives instructions for period support for the roll collar, which is nice.
Okay, so buttons. SA buttons were nowhere to be found, but I picked up this pretty good button at a local JoAnn's. And braid at M&L Fabrics. There was a more accurate thick trim available, but knowing this was a "test" version, I went with the budget option. If you have seen the released Missy clip in advance of Season 9, this was not a bad call
I don't have any in-progress pics of the skirt, but I made the walking skirt variation with the habit back. (Again, using 1909 Beatrix Skirt pattern by Sense & Sensibility) I added 2" to each side of the center front panel, to create 1" deep pleats/tucks on either side, as per the screen version. 4" deep hem, per the pattern. Beautiful fit, material could have cooperated better, especially on those pleats, but I suspect remaking in more substantial fabric will solve that on its own.
I'll have to share details of the hat in a later post - it was a cheap straw trilby (fedora to most) when it started, underwent significant changes, and I sculpted a hatpin as well.
Final result:
Here with the Missy device which I detailed in a prop thread previously:
Harassing the 12th Doctor:
Harassing Osgood:
And John Barrowman:
Some final notes: Jacket could be about 6" longer all around, front of jacket needs about 2" more to even up with the back, some of that at the top of the shoulder which will help with bust curve issues (I may have the earlier version of the pattern which had omitted the extra space at the top for larger sizes). The skirt is fabulous, but to be a bit more screen accurate, should be cut shorter (refer to photos at top). This version I didn't quite get to the buttons and trim on the sleeves in time for the Con. But all in all, a very fun costume to do.
