Hm, I just had a look, the phones seem to have the same problem as most of the other stuff, the handles just aren't long enough. Also, usually the knob on the end is plastic or wood on most everything.
I realized late last night that the 4 prong tap handle under the handle bars isn't a tap handle at all. I knew I recognized the exact shape, but couldn't put my finger on it. It's an industrial knob, like for factory equipment and the like.
OK, the bottom half is completely smooth and the top half is about halfway built up with bondo. I threw some glazing putty on as well. I'm hoping to have it built up to only a few pits in the top half by the end of the night tomorrow.
There are a few trouble spots I'd like to fix a little bit more, but they keep coming back. When I finally had bondo and primer sealing the whole thing I figured it would be a good idea to wash it with soap and water to clean it up. One of those two things decided to work it's way between the bondo and the styrene and cause seams to appear. I've tried filling them in with primer and glazing putty, but nothing's really doing the trick. I'm thinking it's time to just mold it and fill those cracks on the cast if they make it through the molding process at all. I can say one thing though, this thing is really smooth.
Looking good. Though I'm not sure the body is that deep, I'd say about half of what you have there. But I'm not dissing, its good all the same. Unless the deepness is on purpose for your mould-taking...
Another crank handle example, the old hand operated drills:
Only hassle being, the arms aren't that long, but it could easily have been a mix of two components.
Not sure why I didn't pop by sooner the see the progress, obviously people have more time than me nowadays
I realized late last night that the 4 prong tap handle under the handle bars isn't a tap handle at all. I knew I recognized the exact shape, but couldn't put my finger on it. It's an industrial knob, like for factory equipment and the like.
I'm using Kwally's old method of silicone caulk mold-making instead of plaster. I've heard bad things about the plaster molds and this cost the same, so my fingers are crossed for good results. For all I know the thing is full of air pockets and bubbles, I won't know until I demold in a couple days. Also, the hair dryer I picked up for the project didn't have a high heat low air setting, so the vaseline I put on the hub before molding was blown around into a sort of swirly wave pattern. It might have been better to leave the finger prints and streaks and just clean them up later. Ideally, I wouldn't have even used the stuff. But again, fingers crossed.
Still waiting on the silicone to cure, slightly worried that the center is still a fluid despite the outside being solid.
Anyhow, I finally gave up trying to find the cross handle under the handlebars, so I gave the handlebars themselves a shot and managed to track down a really close match to the brake handles. Just search ebay for "Pair Plastic Bicycle Bike Brake Front Rear Levers DB008". Not a bad deal at $7 shipped. I'll need to change out the clamp that holds them to the bar, then they'll be spot on.
I think I should probably warn everybody NOT to use Kwally's method. It doesn't work.
It took me an hour to remove that much of the mold and then get all the stuff off my hands. I'm hoping what's left on there will cure now that it's exposed and I can peel it off more easily tomorrow. In other news, I cut out the foam backing piece and traced the design onto a sheet of 14 gauge steel for the backing plate.
Bumping this one back to life. I'll be making a legitimate silicone mold of my hub right after comic con, then the project will get back on track.
I think I may have found a lead on the light mounts. I noticed that a lot of sundial compasses have a similar mount with a brass plate with a window and three evenly spaced bolts around the outside. It's possible that they were made from a compass.
The one part that's completely eluded me that I can't make from scratch or closely approximate is the clamp that holds the mirror. I've seen something similar in black plastic for mounting cameras to cars, etc. but nothing made of metal or in the right size. A 3D print in stainless steel is the only way I can think to fabricate it (and it would look perfect) but it would run as high as $300 for the whole clamp.
how thick did you make your silicone caulk layer? it looks thick - can't be more than 1/4" or it won't cure. I plan on using the caulk to cast my rosanna device sculpt as it's cheaper for such a small project...
I think the mirror clamp is another bike part - I still need to check out my local bike shop to check it out, see if they have old ribbed handle bars going spare.
Hope to pick this one up myself at some point, fortunately got a week off next week so I could at least construct a mockup. Lord Rassilon help me if I try and cast something though - no idea on that one!
Well with my silicone mold I'll be able to pour more of them in the future if you want one. The handle bar grips have proven to be a real pain. I found the brake levers no problem, but I haven't found anything even close to the grips. I've even checked every single bike I've seen over the last few months and not a single one had the right grips. They're definitely from a kid's bike, though.
Aeryn: Yea, the mold was about 1/2" thick. I wasn't a big fan of the process and don't want to give it another shot just yet. Maybe I will again some day, but for now I've got real silicone and might as well use it.
I'm going to be going back to the Experience the week after next with my new 12 megapixel camera (my previous one, which the reference shots I posted came from was only 5 megapixels) and plan to take more reference shots of the props there. Any particular requests you'd like? (within reason).