Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 painted pieces

Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Nope not a peep. He's actually working on something for me and a few other things for clients. So im just gonna assume hes busy working.
 
Re: Doc's foam work + The last foam painting method you will ever need.


Kind of late on this, but Carquest auto parts in the state carries SEM products in most of their stores with no need to have it shipped. Might be more convenient for impatient people such as myself. :D
 
Re: Doc's foam work + The last foam painting method you will ever need.

Kind of late on this, but Carquest auto parts in the state carries SEM products in most of their stores with no need to have it shipped. Might be more convenient for impatient people such as myself. :D

awesome major thanks :thumbsup I myself didn't want to wait to buy the two SEM products. now I can just drive to this store and buy it.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

has anyone heard from Doc lately? I ordered something from him like 4 months ago and I still haven't heard a peep. I'm just worried :/
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Theres quite a few including myself waiting on orders (ordered gloves in march) and hoping that he is just very busy and not just dissapeared...last i heard was 1 month ago saying my item was rd to ship.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

guys plz just be patient the man is just very busy I am sure I think he has just been slightly overwhelmed with orders
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Your right,Ill just give it some more time. Thanks Peejfro.:cool
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

I ordered gloves from him in March too, I've been E-Mailing him for just about 3 months with no response. I'm just taking it that he is really really busy, especally with the post he put up a couple of weeks ago in his gloves thread in the junkyard. Like Peejfro said, He has been slighty overwhelmed with orders and everyday life. I say we should give doc more time.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

good call guys patience is most definitely a virtue, I am sure he will make good with all orders.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Hey all...i have spoke to doc (as i have orders as well) and he is working like a mad man so dont worry ; )! He literally is keeping away from his social media in order to power thru everyones order ; ). Im sure hell get in touch shortly.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Hey all...i have spoke to doc (as i have orders as well) and he is working like a mad man so dont worry ; )! He literally is keeping away from his social media in order to power thru everyones order ; ). Im sure hell get in touch shortly.

Yes, I know how much time it takes to keep up with the social media thing and I mainly focus all my efforts on this forum, my YouTube channel, and my own website. It takes a lot of time so I can understand if he needs to use that time to get caught up on orders. It is stressful when you accidentally get in a little over your head, which is easy to do when you have people begging to send you money, lol.
 
Re: Ironman Mark VII coated with rondo

Where can I get the foam files for your original ironman helmet that you posted at the beginning of this thread??
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

I know Doc is busy so if anyone else can answer this please let me know......a lot of the lines on his pieces are extremely clean....too clean. I don't think he is cutting and gluing as much as it may seem. It looks like some pieces may be full foam pieces with soldered lines. Can anyone confirm or deny this theory. I've went back through the thread and all I see is where I ask this question forever ago with no reply. It's been forever since I've been in this forum....has doc posted a tut video on how he makes his pieces or is this a trade secret so far???
 
Re: Ironman Mark VII coated with rondo

Where can I get the foam files for your original ironman helmet that you posted at the beginning of this thread??

nevermind......after some searching....I found a helmet I'd like to work with. I've already made one via pepakura/fiberglass, however after I cut the faceplate off its been nothing but bondo, sand, bondo, sand, bondo, sand, over and over again and the edges still don't match up. So now I'm switching to foam in hopes that it'll be a little easier process.....at least quicker for sure
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

Hey all...i have spoke to doc (as i have orders as well) and he is working like a mad man so dont worry ; )! He literally is keeping away from his social media in order to power thru everyones order ; ). Im sure hell get in touch shortly.

totally made my day! :D
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

I know Doc is busy so if anyone else can answer this please let me know......a lot of the lines on his pieces are extremely clean....too clean. I don't think he is cutting and gluing as much as it may seem. It looks like some pieces may be full foam pieces with soldered lines. Can anyone confirm or deny this theory. I've went back through the thread and all I see is where I ask this question forever ago with no reply. It's been forever since I've been in this forum....has doc posted a tut video on how he makes his pieces or is this a trade secret so far???

I know some of the detail lines are indeed cut in with a soldering iron, as I do on my suits. As for gluing, I'm not sure if Doc is utilizing hot glue, but I'm using industrial-strength contact cement to establish the joining of pieces and then backing up the seam on the inside with hot glue to reinforce the joint. Check out the photos on my thread to see what I mean and then let me know if you have any questions!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

I know some of the detail lines are indeed cut in with a soldering iron, as I do on my suits. As for gluing, I'm not sure if Doc is utilizing hot glue, but I'm using industrial-strength contact cement to establish the joining of pieces and then backing up the seam on the inside with hot glue to reinforce the joint. Check out the photos on my thread to see what I mean and then let me know if you have any questions!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes!!......That's what I meant. Very clean looking chest piece by the way. looks like I'll have to try my hand at this
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

an oldschool bump to see if doc is still around, if so are theyre any new updates or paint techniques we should be aware of?
im getting ready to paint my ip suit and just wanna know if youve found any new ways besides the rondo/smooth on/plastic coating.
 
Re: Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 helmet and Very detailed Chest

an oldschool bump to see if doc is still around, if so are theyre any new updates or paint techniques we should be aware of?
im getting ready to paint my ip suit and just wanna know if youve found any new ways besides the rondo/smooth on/plastic coating.

I hear Doc is busy fulfilling orders.

In the meantime, I've hit upon a combination of techniques that render a non-cracking finish and it's almost criminal in it's simplicity. Mind you, most of this is originally Doc's method.

I still found I got some cracking on the thicker foams when painting my suits, even with Doc's technique.

Then I had a conversation with a client of mine that owns a body shop. I told him about the suits and our painting woes. After I described the process, he advised me to eliminate one of the products and then use a scuffing pad.

I tried it. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I have a piece of 12mm foam that I painted yesterday and have spent the past day bending it, TRYING to get it to crack and it won't. Here is the method:

First off, don't use Mod Podge. It cracks to start with setting you up for failure later. Instead use good ole' Elmers Glue (white PVA). Four coats should do it. Stays very flexible when dry.

Second, use a scuff pad or very fine grit sandpaper, just scuff the surface of the glue to provide a "tooth" for the primer to grab onto.

Third, use the SEM flexible primer Doc suggested earlier in his thread. Two light coats should be plenty. Scuff this surface also with your scuff pad or sandpaper.

Fourth, apply your paint of choice. I use Duplicolor for the metal flake in the paint. Again, two or three very light coats should do it. DO NOT SCUFF THIS LAYER.

Finally, apply 2 medium coats of SEM flexible clear or "color coat" as it's called on the can.

Be sure to allow 24 hours for the primer to dry thoroughly before applying the paint. Follow the paint up immediately once it's dry to the touch with your clear. After everything completely dries (24 to 48 hours), you should have an extremely flexible surface that looks great and wears just as great with no cracking!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
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