Doc's foam/fiberglass work + Mark 42 painted pieces

Re: Doc's foam builds + retracting ribbed fingers for easy articulation for gloves

Looks fantastic, Doc!! I am looking forward to getting mine. Are they ribbed also?
 
Re: Doc's foam builds + retracting ribbed fingers for easy articulation for gloves

Looks fantastic, Doc!! I am looking forward to getting mine. Are they ribbed also?

Sure if ya want them to be:)
21840-iron.jpg

heres vid of glove finished, This is as close to the real thing as I coud get it. I tried to cover all skin and still be able to move easy. Attempted this before and failed when it came to movement but not this time. Alot went into this glove Hope ya guys like it:)
 
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Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed and and back inserts on fingers

Its now coated, its not plastidip its called liquid electrical tape. I use plastidip on tools n stuff but hated it on my foam stuff. I was doing it with brush until Darkside mentioned to me he found it in spray form. So thanks to him can now get smooth finish. This is the material on test pieces tht I posted before. Has more strength, elasticity and much much more crease resistant. and if do it right which you guys saw on my vids can get a much more flexable piece. I also spray inside for added protection.
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed and and back inserts on fingers

Its now coated, its not plastidip its called liquid electrical tape. I use plastidip on tools n stuff but hated it on my foam stuff. I was doing it with brush until Darkside mentioned to me he found it in spray form. So thanks to him can now get smooth finish. This is the material on test pieces tht I posted before. Has more strength, elasticity and much much more crease resistant. and if do it right which you guys saw on my vids can get a much more flexable piece. I also spray inside for added protection.

Those came out amazing. i looked into using that liquid electrical tape myself before i went with plasti dip, and i have regretted it ever since. looks like i'm moving forward with the LET.
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed and back inserts on fingers vid

looking great--can't wait for the tutorial on the gloves!
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed and and back inserts on fingers

Its now coated, its not plastidip its called liquid electrical tape. I use plastidip on tools n stuff but hated it on my foam stuff. I was doing it with brush until Darkside mentioned to me he found it in spray form. So thanks to him can now get smooth finish. This is the material on test pieces tht I posted before. Has more strength, elasticity and much much more crease resistant. and if do it right which you guys saw on my vids can get a much more flexable piece. I also spray inside for added protection.

HOLY...
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed and back inserts on fingers vid

lol thanks fellas n still need 1 more coat for inner detail will let this dry but heres a comparison photo of real ironman glove and mine IMO its pretty dang close thanks for lookin:)
 
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Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

That stuff looks awesome Doc, I'll definitely have a look into it for future foam work. Just a question. I have managed to keep the foam flexible and coated in the past, but the part that always gets me is that the paint will still crack even if the foam remains flexible. How do you manage to keep the foam flexible AND allow the paint to flex without cracking? Do you use a specific paint type? Or brand? Or part of your method increases paint flexibility? Or am I just doing it wrong? lol
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

That stuff looks awesome Doc, I'll definitely have a look into it for future foam work. Just a question. I have managed to keep the foam flexible and coated in the past, but the part that always gets me is that the paint will still crack even if the foam remains flexible. How do you manage to keep the foam flexible AND allow the paint to flex without cracking? Do you use a specific paint type? Or brand? Or part of your method increases paint flexibility? Or am I just doing it wrong? lol

Yea it can get confusing. It cracks cuz the paint didnt adhere well to the foam. You have to make sure the paint will bond to the surface of coating.Also the foam has to be properly sealed. but Whats the most important I mean real important is when you apply paint after adhesion promoter. Check specific flash time on the brand your using. make sure you dont get piece dirty before adhesion promoter. I will apply 4 coats of adhesion promoter now. first coat is a light one then when it starts to flash apply 2nd and 3rd coat thicker and watch when it starts to flash between coats and 4th real thick but watch out for runs then I immediatly apply paint. I do not put filler primer anymore the more I researched i read that the less coats you put the more flexibility it will have. And first coat of paint is just a very light coat. it is called the "tack coat" and will help the adhesion process. so when the 1st one is dry apply 2nd thicker. So what ever brand you use look at specifications and follow to the tee n you should be fine. I will show step by step on tutorial soon. Try this new coating I figured out to use. Believe me it is tons better than plastidip n I think that stuff sucks for foam to tell ya the truth. Theres other ways to get a nice finish and I am knowledgeable with fiberglass and body work but my goal is to make a method is not labor intensive and easy that even a beginner can achieve. Like my pops would say "A lazy mans always thinkin" :lol
 
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Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

My jaw is on the floor, Doc. That glove is insanely good. My brain can't even comprehend how you make those so cleanly!

Great job.

-Nick
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Doc, that has got to be the best foam glove I have ever seen. Awesome work! Thanks for the credit on finding the spray LET but the real credit goes to you for discovering that LET has the correct properties needed to give you the effect you were looking for. All I did was check to see if they made a spray version vs the brush-on version you were using. ;)

This is a glorious time for foam builders, lol.
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Hey doc... you're status has been going back and fort. :) You still doing the gloves? You do them for guys with little hands? :)
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Doc, that has got to be the best foam glove I have ever seen. Awesome work! Thanks for the credit on finding the spray LET but the real credit goes to you for discovering that LET has the correct properties needed to give you the effect you were looking for. All I did was check to see if they made a spray version vs the brush-on version you were using. ;)

This is a glorious time for foam builders, lol.

Thanks Darkside, I appreciate that. And you saved me so much time by helping me out. Comes out beautifully smooth. And your exactly right it is a glorious time for foam builders. No more thinking that by going foam route it will be subpar to the pep route. It can and will be equal:lol:)

Hey doc... you're status has been going back and fort. :) You still doing the gloves? You do them for guys with little hands? :)

Yea its been a lil crazy. I can do gloves in all sizes:)
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

I may have missed this in an earlier post, but what is the ribbed material you are using for the fingers? Is it a piece of hose/piping that you are cutting to size?
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Drum role please....The new Mark 42 or 8 whatever it is lol glove. I did at lunch break. Ya know if your paint bonded or not is when you tape it. n perl it off the paint doesnt come off with it. I hate tapeing plus I had masking tape that holds like super glue n a b***h to get off n sucess! Paint is strong bonded. Im real proud of How I build the gloves now. I even cant believe I made it lol hope ya'll like it:D and my glove holder is a hairspray bottle :lol
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Drum role please....The new Mark 42 or 8 whatever it is lol glove. I did at lunch break. Ya know if your paint bonded or not is when you tape it. n perl it off the paint doesnt come off with it. I hate tapeing plus I had masking tape that holds like super glue n a b***h to get off n sucess! Paint is strong bonded. Im real proud of How I build the gloves now. I even cant believe I made it lol hope ya'll like it:D and my glove holder is a hairspray bottle :lol

Love the paint job you did! Would you mind sharing what color/ brand did you use?
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

That stuff looks awesome Doc, I'll definitely have a look into it for future foam work. Just a question. I have managed to keep the foam flexible and coated in the past, but the part that always gets me is that the paint will still crack even if the foam remains flexible. How do you manage to keep the foam flexible AND allow the paint to flex without cracking? Do you use a specific paint type? Or brand? Or part of your method increases paint flexibility? Or am I just doing it wrong? lol
Have you tried automotive bumper paint its suppose to be flexible..they also sell it as an additive to apply to a paint if you use a spray gun....but if you want to do it right it had to be applied to clear coat also..
 
Re: Doc's foam work + completed IM glove with ribbed fingers and comparison photo

Yea it can get confusing. It cracks cuz the paint didnt adhere well to the foam. You have to make sure the paint will bond to the surface of coating.Also the foam has to be properly sealed. but Whats the most important I mean real important is when you apply paint after adhesion promoter. Check specific flash time on the brand your using. make sure you dont get piece dirty before adhesion promoter. I will apply 4 coats of adhesion promoter now. first coat is a light one then when it starts to flash apply 2nd and 3rd coat thicker and watch when it starts to flash between coats and 4th real thick but watch out for runs then I immediatly apply paint. I do not put filler primer anymore the more I researched i read that the less coats you put the more flexibility it will have. And first coat of paint is just a very light coat. it is called the "tack coat" and will help the adhesion process. so when the 1st one is dry apply 2nd thicker. So what ever brand you use look at specifications and follow to the tee n you should be fine. I will show step by step on tutorial soon. Try this new coating I figured out to use. Believe me it is tons better than plastidip n I think that stuff sucks for foam to tell ya the truth. Theres other ways to get a nice finish and I am knowledgeable with fiberglass and body work but my goal is to make a method is not labor intensive and easy that even a beginner can achieve. Like my pops would say "A lazy mans always thinkin" :lol

Thanks for the reply Doc. I'll definitely take those tips into consideration for the future. Sounds like I was just painting wrong :p.
 
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