DeBoers Enterprise.

Started work on the B/C deck part.
The good thing about cutting this off is that it's far easier to work on now.
I need to cut out the windows so started by getting their location on the inside so I could thin out the resin.

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Started on the deflector dish now.
I've got a lovely photo etch surround for this from the photo etch set by Eliot Brown.
But because the kit part has a big thick ledge around it that wouldnt let light through (pic 1) I had to hollow it out.

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Once I'd finished with the heavy tools I then sanded the inside with my special improvised sanding tool. (pics 2-3)

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I think with all the builds I've seen (that use photo etch parts) people put the slotted deflector ring on the outside. Looking again at the prop I noticed the it's not.
So I cut out some semi transparent plastic from the bottom of a pot I had lying around,

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I think with all the builds I've seen (that use photo etch parts) people put the slotted deflector ring on the outside. Looking again at the prop I noticed the it's not.
So I cut out some semi transparent plastic from the bottom of a pot I had lying around,

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Here's the end result . I think I achieved the same look.
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Next comes the impulse crystal.
With the lovely photo etch set from the very nice Mr Eliot Brown comes a cage to fit over this area.
One version comes in two parts with a spoked inner and then a rim which needs to be soldered together, like this.

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After a fair bit of delicate soldering you get this.

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After finding a new transparent dome of suitable curvature and persuading them to stick together, the end.

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Then comes the tedious masking procedure.

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Not really done much on this lately.

Did sort out the flashing nav beacon for the back of the bridge area ( A deck ?)

Rather than use a short length of optic fibre I wanted to use a LED so to get it small enough I put it in the chuck of my drill and reduced it down as far as I possibility could without hitting the element.

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The middle one was the successful one.




You can just about see it poking up at the back.

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Scribe tip; make a two-part top-hat profile plug that fits that center hole (just round, nothing fancy). Upper top-hat fits the hole diameter, lower top hat is a little bigger and the right length to keep the whole thing steady or back-screw to a scrap of masonite or plywood. Next; run a small bolt & nut (or threaded rod) thru the center of plug-set (say M3), run a 1/2" x 1/16" brass strip off that center. Slightly form the brass to the saucer profile (not all too critical for diameter scribes) and tap & drill (7) holes in the strip at the intervals you want the diameters "scribed-in". Depending on the scribe tip you select, you can even put a nut on the back of it (in my case I use a scribe tool with a replaceable carbon tip and disassemble-it/ reassemble-it at each radii hole. For the radial lines you sorta do the same except you need very thin "P" shaped brass arm that closely follows the hull contour. The "P" shape allows you to line-up the scribes with the true center of the threaded-rod/bolt.

Keep the rig. I have mine hung on a wall like a picture and have several plugs and arms made at this point....
 
Sorry, I don't I have pics of them. I have them stashed in my mountain of boxes in my basement. Which now that I think about it, is starting to look like the warehouse in raiders of the lost ark. I bought them off of others on eBay. Right now they are a chore to get to. But I can say that with both I didn't have the issue you started out with on the saucer. If I recall correctly both have the metal braces.

I just had a chance to review the work you've done so far, and it is phenomenal. I really like how you did the deflector dish with the extra phot etched detailing. The work you've done on the saucer, wow. Every time I come to this board I am humbled by the talent of others. :thumbsup

By the way how do you contact Elliot Brown for the photo etched parts? Is he a member here or does he have a website?
 
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