Death Trooper E-11D Field Marshal Build

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

Hey Guys, I have been working on my DT (close to completion) for some time...but the one thing I have gotten really good at lately has been building the E-11D using Field Marshal’s parts. I have made 5 of these so far...learning as I go and improving small components here and there. I haven’t seen anyone post how to build these yet and as I build more I’m open to suggestions on how to make it even better.

I have a few more coming in from folks who want me to build theirs so I will show how they are taken apart, what I save, where to cut weight (if you’re going to troop with it), some different engineering decisions to be made, etc.... Feel free to chime in and provide feedback.

I also need to acknowledge two people upfront in all this....Frist is Chris (aka Field Marshal) who builds these incredible parts, without him none of this would be possible. Second is my bud Henry (I forget his TK but he is a GML in the Canadian Garrisson), he is a wealth of knowledge from reference material...it’s really amazing how much he knows.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

So....here is what we start with a Airsoft Sterling from Evike.

S&T / Beta Project Full Steel WWII Sterling L2A1 Airsoft AEG Submachine Gun

The whole thing needs to be gutted and stripped before we do anything else. You will need a few tools to do this. I use a screwdriver with removable tips, a metal punch, hammer, etc.

When I’m done this will be completely stripped down so we can cut the greblie holes, grind the sights, cut the barrel, and get it read for painting.

I also recommend getting aome kind of storage solution to house all the parts...both the ones that come off the Sterling as you will need them as well as keeping track of the parts from Chris as these are small and can be confused with other parts and/or lost very easily.

I purchased some HDX boxes from the Big Orange home improvement center....anything will do, don’t get fancy....just needs to hold the parts so they don’t get lost. I think I paid $15 for 4. So they are cheap.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

Let’s start the dissassembly!

1. I take the folding stock off first. It’s a pain to deal with because if it’s not secured on the barrel it flops all around and is super annoying. Plus the inner Airsoft piston need to come out the back and it can’t be removed without taking the stock off first.

2. I take the rear wnd cap off next because it’s easy and I’m already back there.

3. We need to remove the spring and housing that sits behind the piston it is in the back under the end cap. You will need to remove all the screws. Careful removing this piece as it’s spring loaded and can fly out...you won’t be replacing it but just make sure it doesn’t smack you square in the face.

4. Next you can remove the charging handle and ejection port cover. Twist the charging handle about 1/2 turn and it will pop off....slide the metal charging handle cover out the back of the Sterling.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

The next parts of the dissassembly are tricky so will have to walk everyone through this more detailed.

1. Remove the pistol grip...2 screws....slides right off super easy.

2. Next are the two covers that keep the selector switch and the wires for the existing motor covered. They are connected with 1 hex head screw and 2 Phillips screws on either side. The selector switch was in fact removed on the hero prop but we will leave it attached for now. Once these are removed we can go about removing the trigger assembly and piston. Make sure to save the pieces together. The selector switch has a small spring on the inside.

3. Remove the Hex head screw on the underside of the barrel. This is what connects the piston to the hop up....you will need some extra room to remove the trigger assembly. This allows the trigger and piston (still connected to slide around a bit). You also will need to remove the single Phillips head screw that connects the piston to the hop up along with the washer, on the inside of the barrel. Careful....this screw is small.

4. Now with this removed you can maneuver the trigger assembly to disconnect it. There is a roll pin towards the back that you will need the metal punch to get rid of. Pop that sucker out and you’re halfway there. The trigger assembly is also secured by a small plastic piece that connects from the inside of the piston to the inside of the gears of the trigger. You will need the metal punch again to slide this out of the way to pop off the lower trigger assembly as well as guide the pistion out the back of the Sterling.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

We are in the home stretch. Everything slides out the back of the Sterling....the muzzle cap is the ONLY thing attached with hex screws that can be removed from the front. Now that you gave the piston out and the trigger assembly we can focus our attention to the front of the Sterling.

1. Now that the trigger and piston are removed you can remove the barrel and hop up out the back of the Sterling. You can also remove the plastic hop up piece on the inside of the magazine well.

2. You will need to remove the front muzzle cap which could be all orange or black with a rubber orange tip. This piece is a pain to remove mostly because the screws are on super tight.

3. Next is the bayonet lug that has to be removed from the inside of the barrel. It is secured by a small Phillips head screw, which will allow the barrel support to fall out the back.

You are then left with a clean Sterling ready to go! Next I will tackle cutting up the barrel to support the barrel shroud.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

So now that we have a fully disassembled we can begin to cut this sucker up. The hand guard and the outer piece of the iron sights can be removed with Pliers as shown with the red arrows. You could cut them in half with a Dremel but they pull off easy as they are only tack welded on. The other thing you will need to do if you use my method is to grind the top part of the sights off as shown.

IF you want to use the delrin from Chris, that is kosher too....I can help there, just comment in the thread and I can guide you.

The next part is where Chris and I differ on barrel shroud attachment methods. His method is just as secure as mine however my method allows for more of the Sterling barrel to remain to support the outer barrel shroud. Chris sells a solid piece of delrin which screws into the hop up and allows you to screw into the delrin. It also requires you to cut 4 inches off the front of the barrrel of the Sterling. I like to keep the full length of the orginial barrel for extra support. I do not use the delrin and I also cut the hop up in half....mostly these are build for trooping and reducing weight is my primary goal. So the 13 inch barrel shroud extension is only a 6 inch extension using my method vs a 10 inch extension using the delrin piece.

I then slide the barrel shroud over the clean barrel and cut “slits” so the holes are clean you can see straight through the side holes. I use a Dremel to cut the barrel so it fits properly then hand file the areas so they are clean. You can see how the barrel shroud covers the barrel but the slits allow the holes in the shroud to be see-through.

Lastly, I JB Weld the holes that line up with the barrel shroud screws so they are easier to attach later. I would recommend using some painters tape on the inside of the barrel to keep the JB Weld smooth on the inner barrel....because trying to sand that will be a pain. I also JB Weld the iron sights I grinned down. You won’t see it, but I like to keep all parts clean.....even the ones you don’t see. Once the JB Weld is dry you will want to drill and tap these holes with a 6/32 bit.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

Two other things I recommend doing to the barrel assuming you keep the full length is....

1. grinding the front opposite the side with the magazine. When you attach the rail system there is a small lip on the end of the Sterling that will cause the backing piece to sit off a bit. You can hand file or grind it down with a Dremel like I did. You can see how the left side of the barrel is thinner compared to the right side.

2. You will need to enlarge the hole on the bottom of the barrel closest to the tip. This is done because the worm screw for the laser will contact with the barrel and will “push” the barrel away causing a stress point.

 

[DrtyJerzTrooper]

Ok, let’s talk about reducing weight for a few minutes. This thing is pretty heavy as it is without extra weight. My general recommendations are you do the following.

1. Completely gut the Airsoft piston, I’ll explain how to do that in the next post but you can see the overall weight difference between the gutted vs non-gutted piston. It makes a huge difference in weight and also allows more room for wiring and/or electronics if you are so inclined.

2. Totally gut the trigger assembly, same thing with the piston. There is a significant amount of weight you can cut out here and you don’t need all the gears, bearings and washers in the trigger assembly.

3. Lastly is the hoop up and this is a toss up depending if you decided to use the piece of delrin from Chris without my method previously or with my method (which you will need to sand down the delrin so it’s perfectly smooth all around to fit down the barrel without cutting it off completely.). Cutting the hop up in half will also allow more weight reduction. I also plugged up the hole with some JB Weld so there isn’t any LED leak out the front of the barrel but if you do or don’t do this is your choice.

 

[Swc20956]

Where’s the rest of the build?