Correct resin?

[deathscythe]

Hello all. I've been reading through the RPF for some time, and finally joined in the last 'batch'.
There are some absolutely fantastic artists here producing great stuff. For someone like me (who is just starting) this place is a great inspiration.

To the subject:
This is probably a stupid question, but what type of resin is used to make replica weapons? I have a few airsoft mod projects in mind. Two of them are revolvers that I plan to make into 'break apart' frames (one of which is Vash's trigun revolver). So, is there a "right" resin to use?

Thanks,
-ds

 

[propsculptor]

I don't think there is a "Correct" resin to use, it's really up to you and what you prefer.

I've been making Props and doing Resin castings for over 19 years and I prefer to use Silpak resin, they have one called "Silwhite" it's an easy resin to use with the A/B mix at 50/50 and I've never had a problem with it.

You will probably get a lot of responses from various people on what they prefer and each will have their own preference, it's almost like Sculpting Clays, some Sculptors like Oil-based Clay others prefer Water-based Clay, I use both depending on the project.

I hope that helps...

 

[Jedirick]

Some suppliers offer sample units at reasonable prices.

www.Smooth-on.com is one.

To start I'd try 1:1 ratio by volume type with a work time of 10-15 minutes. Give you enough time to avoid being rushed.

 

[bluerealm]

I agree with propsculptor, thereÂ’s no right resin. Its just a preference on how long you want to wait for it to cure, how hard you want it to be, the viscosity of it while your working with it, etc. I use smoothon products because they offer many different types for different applications. I will tell you that if I was going to make a prop weapon that wasnt super detailed I would go the vaccuform route. That way you can guarantee the thickness of the cast, so that it would interfere with the airsoft mechanics. But if you donÂ’t have access to a vac table then resin casting will work just fine.

 

[Darth Mule]

Smooth-on is probably the easiest for the novice caster simply because their products are very user friendly and so is their ordering process and the fact that they offer sampler kits to get you started.

 

[deathscythe]

Thanks for the quick response.

So, basically any resin should be able to be machined, right?

 

[exoray]

<div class='quotetop'>(deathscythe @ Nov 11 2006, 03:17 PM) [snapback]1355600[/snapback]</div>

Thanks for the quick response.

So, basically any resin should be able to be machined, right?
[/b]

Yeah in theory, but note that unless you pressure cast the part there will be internal bubbles in most casting that can have adverse effects when machining them... You can help avoid this by getting slower setting resins or pressure casting...

If you pick up the average ~5 minute work time resin be prepared to have tons of mini (pin head size) bubbles once you machine the surface off...

The Smooth On resins come in lots of flavors and from what I hear they offer up a lot of support if you just give them a call... I personally don't find thier stuff "that much better" (except thier clear that is #1 hands down from anything else I have used) then several of the other brands except for the fact that they offer up all different types that come in handy for specific applications...

I have been using Por-A-Kast resin that you can pickup over the counter at Dick Blick and really like it... Also Alumilite that I can source locally as well... I find that Smooth On resins (at least most of them) get stuck in a "rubber" (stiff but not hard) state too long for my me and can easily warp if removed too quickly from the mold... Por-A-Kast and Alumilite resins don't have this long "rubber" state and I prefer that...

 

[deathscythe]

Tiny bubbles shouldn't be a problem if I use a filler like bondo to smooth before painting, right?

 

[exoray]

<div class='quotetop'></div>

Tiny bubbles shouldn't be a problem if I use a filler like bondo to smooth before painting, right?[/b]

Yes, and no it all depends on what you are doing, in most cases probably not an issue if you are willing to do the filing and finishing... But, in small detailed areas it creates a weakeness that might blow out or fail when you are doing the machining... More of a heads up...

 

[drusselmeyer]

<div class='quotetop'>(deathscythe @ Nov 11 2006, 08:26 PM) [snapback]1355586[/snapback]</div>

Hello all. I've been reading through the RPF for some time, and finally joined in the last 'batch'.
There are some absolutely fantastic artists here producing great stuff. For someone like me (who is just starting) this place is a great inspiration.

To the subject:
This is probably a stupid question, but what type of resin is used to make replica weapons? I have a few airsoft mod projects in mind. Two of them are revolvers that I plan to make into 'break apart' frames (one of which is Vash's trigun revolver). So, is there a "right" resin to use?

Thanks,
-ds
[/b]

The resin you use depends on what you want it for. There is a lot of technical information to learn about resins like pot life and shore harness. The main thing to remember is to decide what its use will be and how much you want to spend on it. Get a few Material Safety and Data sheets (MSDS) for whatever resins you have in mind. This information will help you decide what is best.

You can often talk to the chemists at various resin compaines who can help you with the more technical aspects of your resin choice.


A few tips:

-If you are going to build many large models (more than a dozen) it is actually cheaper to get resin in bulk 5 gal kits (or larger depending on need).

-Get samples first. Smaller samples can help you actually experience the various resins before ordering them. There are two types of samples: Precast- usually blocks of cured resin showing the finished properties and Sample kits -small amounts of resin/hardener to cast yourself.

-Use your resin within 6 months. Resins tend to go bad around then.


As for finishing, it is always a good idea to cast in a material that you don't have to do all that extra finishing work on. If you don't mind a lot of extra work with bondo, you can get a gallon from an auto parts store and cast with that. It is very difficult, stinky, messy and slightly dangerous, but if you are willing to use it, that is one more method.

Ultimately though, revolvers are especially difficult to cast and will be fragile no matter which material you cast in.

Personally, I recommend starting any revolver project with a revolver airsoft. Your main problem besides functionality will be strength.

The Vacuform suggestion may actually work better for you.

Hope this helps.